(no longer) Wanted: 30mm Generator Cap - (Part acquired!)

[TheGingerBeardMan]

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A while back, I took off me generator caps for the usual polish and to re-apply the coppa slip.

Typical - it happened to mine too. Despite loads of (proper) coppa slip always on, for some reason this time I couldn't get the bugger off, and ended up with a centre punch n' small chisel to free it. I broke about an inch of the top, managed to remould the missing chunk with liquid weld, sanded it and painted it. It works and holds, but, well, it's an ugly (to me) repair. No-one would notice unless you were right up to it....

So - I wonder if anyone has a nice spare kicking around? (Is Franks Emporium still operating, or has he bundled up the web and moved to dark corners a-new?)

If not, no worries, as it'll be a Wemoto or Dave Silver job (I could get a pattern one from Wemoto, for a few quid less, but want to stick to OEM).

Muchos grassy-ass and thanks in advance.



Yeah, I know you didn't need a pic of what it looks like.....but, well....erm....you should know me by now.

[MacV2]

Sorry not a stock item for Frank.

Buy a new un just dont tighten it up too much...in fact use some clear silicone to hold it & only do up finger tight...

[TheGingerBeardMan]

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Many thanks for the quick reply. Didn't realise Frank was on the night-shift.

Silicone? As is normal, clear, vinegar smelling silicone sealant?

Me Carbonadi clutch cover is siliconed on, as that's the only main thing that's recommended to attach 'em with.

But I've actually never heard of anyone using silicone sealant on an actual thread!

I wonder, would a few drops of Loctite 243 Lock 'n' Seal (medium strength) make it impossible to shift after applying? (I have a wee 3ml tube in me tool box that I used for the fork mount caliper bolts).

I do take the cap off occasionally to re-polish it. (If I polished it in situ, I'd get too close to the paint on the casing).

Apart from using it to seal me door frame, and a fish tank years ago, I'm only familiar with the other better known application for silicone.....


.....

[bigtwinthing]

the issue is they don't come out! loose just nipped and the silicone will stop it leaking. or use some anti seize but don't lock it up too tight.

most people butcher them getting them out. your not trying to hold it in,

[MacV2]

the issue is they don't come out! loose just nipped and the silicone will stop it leaking. or use some anti seize but don't lock it up too tight.

most people butcher them getting them out. your not trying to hold it in,

eggs xatcly...High temp silicone avaliable from all good motorfactors or e-bay.

The trick is as BBT says dont do it up tight & withthe silicone holding it in place easy to get out.

[TheGingerBeardMan]

Aww - no-one has come back with an offer of one. Despite it being viewed loadsa times. Heavy sigh.

Still, I really appreciate the advice for the next one that'll take it's place. Thanks Bigtwin, n' thanks Mac.

Yeah, I've heard of high temp sealant before, but never used the stuff. Erm, I think I've heard of it before....maybe it's me imagination having now seen this reply?

I will hold my hands up to tightening the cap, deliberatley nipping it tight so that it never rolls loose over time and then drops out on the road. I assumed the proper Copa-Slip would have been suffice, as I use it on all me bolt threads. I didn't want the disimilar metal corrosion on me engine casing with a thread that size. But, it obviously didn't stop it from biting - which was weird, cos there was no corrosion on the thread when I got it off.

Even going at it with an impact driver never made it budge - and all I use to tighten it is the proper size allen key, and nipped up hand tight. It's been on and off each time I use the Autosol, and has been for over 2 years, so why it decides to give up now beats me.


Anyhoo. It looks like I'm gonna be buying a new one form Silvers or Wemoto (not much difference in price).

I shall seek out some high temp silicone and give that a whirl. Then, as advised, run it round the thread and screw it inby hand till it tightens and leave it at that to set.

One day (maybe) I shall create an order for something that Frank actually has in stock. This back order status is not acceptable in this day and age.

Especially as he has lots of complete bikes in the showroom at the moment. I'm sure if someone crept in at midnight and unscrewed a cap, he wouldn't notice?

I say it's better undoing the cap yerself, rather than letting the road remove all yer bits on your behalf......

[Kev L]

Give me a day or so and I'll check out the spares box. I can't remember whether I gave mine away previously, but if I still have them they're yours.

[TheGingerBeardMan]

Crikey! - That'd be su-weeeet.

It's not a rush job, as I waffled that I am still running the bike with the broken one after moulding a new chunk with liquid weld and sanding n painting it. I'm not out on it as much as I was, so the old one will keep her oil tight meantime for short hops.

But, should you discover a spare one in stock....fire a PM and we can sort out the payment details!

Once again...it's a ''feel the forum love'' moment.

[tony.mon]

I have a spare.
Used but in good condition.
I'll pm you.

[MacV2]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ne&_sop=12

Plenty out there have a scroll & you'll find a clear one...

Or try a local motorfactors...

Also when tightening the cap use the long arm of the allen key...less of a fulcrm = less force so not as tight...

For undoing use the short arm...more of a fulcrm = more force...

It is also advisable to have a real good fit with the allen key, prevents slippage.

Also although this sounds mad, often with tight nuts or bolts, try tightening first...? Ehh ? Yep that way you can break the 'corrosion seal' . Sounds mad but it works...

[TheGingerBeardMan]

Thank you Meester Mac for yer technical hex-plan-a-shuns.

I'm familiar with the full-crumb workings, and yup, will apply it to the new cap. Silicone for hot applications will be bought too.

Ain't wanting THAT happening again.

And I'll apply the silicone to the smaller Gen Cap too (if that one hasn't seized on me)

I did (and have used the same advice to other folk), with regards to tightening the fastener first.

I did this with the impact driver when it refused to turn left. So, I impacted a short sharp shock to the righty (tighty) in the hope it would have freed. But alas, nope...and sod it.

And...wouldja look at that. A matter of hours ago it was gonna be buying new .....and then yer all throwing them at me from all directions.

I have a PM, so will check who that's from, and well, watch this space. Someone may have been kind enough to part with one.

Either that, or the reason for the PM is full of naughty words and insults, that can't be posted publically.

[CruxGNZ]

You can also pick one up from eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crankcase-Cover ... 21102a6c8a

They are made out of aluminum and not Swiss cheese like the OEM. Since I switched to the aftermarket piece, I haven't had it sieze in place. It's also lighter than OEM

[TheGingerBeardMan]

You can also pick one up from eBay...

Many thanks for that Crux, now THAT's a damn good price. Currently, $12.59 equates to £9.89 British Sterling. You can buy TWO of these aftermarket ones for the price of one OEM cap! ....and maybe still save a couple of notes with the postage!

Mr. Tony Mon (UK) has dug one out from his Palace full of Parts, and a price has been agreed on, so, we'll be good to go before the end of the year with a new one. (although he didn't say if it comes pre-polished or not!?? )

Regards, and electronic handshakes across the web.




(EDIT: - I've just re-read the ad and it says doesn't post to United Kingdom, so, erm....yeah... )

[Wicky]

Cheesey Chinese aftermarket Crankcase Cover Timing Gernator Engine Plug For Honda for £7.59 inc P&P

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142005136155

[MacV2]

Cheesey Chinese aftermarket Crankcase Cover Timing Gernator Engine Plug For Honda for £7.59 inc P&P

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142005136155

Ahh but is it cheeseyer (?) than the superior Honda cheese ?