KermitLeFrog wrote:I got back lunchtime today. Due to creative rule interpretation my 867 mile weekend did not win me the distance prize but, hey ho, Pete deserves it for sheer consistency.
I was honoured to meet you Mac for the first time and also all the other strange people:
I saw a master braker face off against a master breaker
and a competition to see how many people could muck up a manual CCT install.
Thanks once again (special mention to Mac) to everyone who made it such a fun day.
The CCT change want that bad.. okay so I forgot to check that the two lines on the round things on the front thing weren’t lined up with the other line thing after I popped the new CCT into the front thing. Other than that it was mostly all good... I’m very technical I’ll have you know..
Tony was very gracious in his execution of reason, stating, (WE forgot) to check. As he was changing his engine and gear box I think,,,,,, he was extremely helpful..
Good to meet you Mr Le Frog.
If we don't learn from our mistakes we are destin to repeat them
"Don't worry E, your're Daan Saaf now and the cars are used to bikes approaching them head on at high speed on the wrong side of the road, they always get out of the way"
Yes, the dents are in the swept area mate. I reckon dressing them & new seals may cure it.
I think I may have contributed to their failure by attempts to clean them with a plastic seal mate device.
The offside was leaking and all but stopped after a clean. The nearside wasn't leaking but is now pissing like an incontinent pensioner!
Are the kits from ebay OK or is it best to go genuine?
Cheers in advance.
Southwind531 wrote: ↑Tue May 08, 2018 9:57 am
Cheers for the guidance Tony.
Yes, the dents are in the swept area mate. I reckon dressing them & new seals may cure it.
I think I may have contributed to their failure by attempts to clean them with a plastic seal mate device.
The offside was leaking and all but stopped after a clean. The nearside wasn't leaking but is now pissing like an incontinent pensioner! (AKA KevL)
Are the kits from ebay OK or is it best to go genuine?
Cheers in advance.
An axe I pivot the bike on an Abba stand, remove the rear wheel and then it see-saw's enough to put someting under the sump to hold the front off the ground. A bit of timber is sometimes needed as extra support at an angle up front from the ground just behind the forks and resting on the front cylinder head just under the cam cover. It very front heavy with front cylinder at the angle it is. As you have a beam and rachet straps then that may be a good idea along with an axle stand under the sump for extra support and to remove the wobble. Most importantly though is to loosen off all the tight nuts and bolts like axle nut, calliper mountings and top stem nut before lifting the bike. You could just slide the fork legs out but you would need some serious height to get them out past the lower brace and the bike would look like it's doing a wheelie Much easier to remove the complete front end. If you intend on remving the fork cartrige be real careful with the allen bolts at the base of the fork leg. It may even, if your careful, be worth cracking these open while the forks are still mounted to the bike and spring pressure is still there. Don't remove them, just crack the seal so they can then be easily removed once off the bike. At least while on the bike the forks can lock aginst the stearing lock to give you resistance but beware the front wheel needs to be removed and the bike will be off the ground so be careful. IIRC I think I needed to use an impact driver with an allen socket on to get things started.
use the ratchet straps mate.
you can go and but a front lift stand, but you night as well save the money and use the straps.
I had both ends strapped up a few years ago...
That sounds like a good tip Wicky - one at a time.
My plan would be to take fairing & tank off & strap round the spars to get the height. Horizontal fork legs?
Bike's done 65k miles & rear suspension feels very stiff. Are the linkage bearings almost always shagged?
If I suspend the whole bike, I may as well overhaul the rear suspension. I was also thinking of trying to reduce some of the pre-load on the rear spring to soften it (I'm 11 stone wet), check for height change & lower the front to compensate if need be.
Cheers in advance again chaps/chapesess.
Steve
P.S. My humour is quite dry, so I very rarely announce when I'm being tongue-in-cheek or jocular (any given opportunity). An exclamation mark is sometimes the only clue.
You should fit in here very well with your sense of humour
One of these might be better than an exclamation mark though.
Rear suspension linkage bearings and swingarm bearings last a lot longer if they are regularly serviced (greased) which quite often they are not.
See what can happen if they are not regularly serviced:- viewtopic.php?f=31&t=11809
For your weight the best setting for the preload on a standard shock would be the softest setting,
if you are 11stone, the std back spring is already too stiff for you, I would start to think about either putting a softer rate spring on the std shock, or getting an after market one.
Yes, I saw the split linkage arm. Nasty!
The spring's definitely too hard, despite the pies & pints. That's why I was going to reduce the pre-load if possible. It'd be a stop gap as I've spent fortunes recently & can't stretch to a new spring just now.
Regards what I'll find when I strip the rear, I'll have to play it by ear/sight/feel as I don't want to immobilise it while I wait for parts.
Will certainly go the grease nipple route though.
Matt Berry on Absolute Radio says, in the voice of Stephen Toast "I don't know what it costs to send an emoji, but we'd respect you a lot less!"