How to remove and refit CCT's on the Firestorm
Excellent instructions follwed themto the letter and noprobs so far, but...... can anyone tell me the best way to set up manual tensioners? Do you have to be absolutely spot on or a Honda Yoda? Any top tips? Bike is in bits with year CCT out. Me thinks I need assistance before fitting mew items. Any ideas ? I am in no rush as I am waiting for the tensioners to arrive.
I see myself as a sensitive intelligent man but with the heart of a clown that causes me to **ck things up right at that crucial moment........'Jim Morrison'
You may be better off posting your question as a new topic, here in the workshop sectionBeamish wrote:Excellent instructions follwed themto the letter and noprobs so far, but...... can anyone tell me the best way to set up manual tensioners? Do you have to be absolutely spot on or a Honda Yoda? Any top tips? Bike is in bits with year CCT out. Me thinks I need assistance before fitting mew items. Any ideas ? I am in no rush as I am waiting for the tensioners to arrive.
I can't really help you with manual CCT's myself, but there are some on here who have fitted them Chris.
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LotusSevenMan
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:32 pm
- Location: Liss, Hampshire. UK
APE or similar style manual tensioner set-up info.
What you need to do is bring the bike up on top dead center compression stroke on cylinder one. From there you need to run the tensioner up by hand until you feel it contact the guide, then you want to back it off a quarter turn. After that, you want to start the bike and adjust it further from there by the sound of the motor. You don't want to hear any cam chain slap, but you also don't want the cam chain so tight that the motor starts to misfire and idle rough.
What you need to do is bring the bike up on top dead center compression stroke on cylinder one. From there you need to run the tensioner up by hand until you feel it contact the guide, then you want to back it off a quarter turn. After that, you want to start the bike and adjust it further from there by the sound of the motor. You don't want to hear any cam chain slap, but you also don't want the cam chain so tight that the motor starts to misfire and idle rough.
Last edited by LotusSevenMan on Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Only ride as fast as your guardian angel can fly" !!!
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veeteearr_HRC
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:23 pm
- Location: at mee desk again
ccts
have just followed the procedure to the exact word i have skipped thru to the front cct as i thought there may be a rattle developing ... first off after removing the front cct i noticed the plunger returns to fully extended on its own very well. how do you know the spring is broke ??? mine seems to unwind okay... am i correct that i must go through the whole thing again and check the rear cct for the same self unwinding ...or can i check to see if spring is broke by taking off the cap and winding the plunger in and seeing if it unwinds itself under tension?? whilst rear cct is in situ please help i'm thick 
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veeteearr_HRC
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:23 pm
- Location: at mee desk again
i just came back off holiday yesterday and thought i'll go for a ride . an hour in i noticed a noise similar to the video that had been posted . left hand side . after following your procedure sirch i went to the front cct . retracted it removed it and slowly let it wind it self out it seems to extend to full very well. what could this noise be then ??or could the cct just have been stuck as some suggest
I've had this happen to my bike before, the only way I could get rid of it was too replace the CCT. I think the tension from the spring may have gradually dropped off over the years. What I found was happening, I got a slapping sound from the engine, it was noticeable from about 3,000 rpm and down, as when you're slowing down on the over run of the engine, like when you're approaching a roundabout letting the engine do the braking. The slapping sound is from the cam chain, because the CCT is not removing enough slack in the chain it's flopping about inside the engine.veeteearr_HRC wrote:i just came back off holiday yesterday and thought i'll go for a ride . an hour in i noticed a noise similar to the video that had been posted . left hand side . after following your procedure sirch i went to the front cct . retracted it removed it and slowly let it wind it self out it seems to extend to full very well. what could this noise be then ??or could the cct just have been stuck as some suggest
I realise your noise may not necessarily be due to the CCT, but it could be.
HTH,
Chris.
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veeteearr_HRC
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:23 pm
- Location: at mee desk again
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Anonymous
Whilst i still haven't attacked the problem yet,need to gather my thought's & enthusiasm,i have to thank you Sir Sirch345,you really shed the light on that one mate,like i said haven't done it yet but i'm very confident you nailed it mate.
Just to clarify one thing after youv'e set up rear cylinder,is it the same principle for the position for the lobes (facing inwards) for the front cylinder.
And if your right mate,look out for the next meet........your in for a big man hug
it's ok your safe i'm married with kids, 
.
Cheers Gwyn
Just to clarify one thing after youv'e set up rear cylinder,is it the same principle for the position for the lobes (facing inwards) for the front cylinder.
And if your right mate,look out for the next meet........your in for a big man hug
it's ok your safe i'm married with kids, .Cheers Gwyn
Hi guys,
Now this may sound like a daft question but I have never done this before so bare with me.
If I dont have a problem with my cct's but want to change them for manuals just for peace of mind then why would I need to remove the cam cover and the inspection covers and check the timing??? Surely the timing should be right as I have no running probs with the originals???
As I say it might be a daft question and I am missing some point here so enlighten me if you would
Cheers,
Jim.
Now this may sound like a daft question but I have never done this before so bare with me.
If I dont have a problem with my cct's but want to change them for manuals just for peace of mind then why would I need to remove the cam cover and the inspection covers and check the timing??? Surely the timing should be right as I have no running probs with the originals???
As I say it might be a daft question and I am missing some point here so enlighten me if you would
Cheers,
Jim.
RACIST!!! not me....I'll race any fooker!!!!
Jim,
Yes you are missing the point as you put it
I'll do my best to try and enlighten you
You most definitely will need to set the valve timing for each cylinder in turn before removing the old CCT's. The reason being is, if the engine is not in the right position of it's cycle some of the valves may be partly open. This will cause a load on the cam chain, so as soon as you remove the CCT the pressure from the partly open valve will cause the cam wheel to turn while the cam chain stands still. You will then have to re-set the valve timing. (The piston in the cylinder you're working on needs to be at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke and all timing marks lined up as I've described at the beginning of this topic!
To fit APE CCT's follow my instruction just the same for fitting or changing the standard CCT's, but obviously you'll need to set the APE CCT's as they recommend.
Also APE recommend (unless they've changed it of course) you need to remove both cam covers so you can measure the amount of deflection (up and down movement) of the cam chain between the two cam wheels.
Cheers,
Chris.
Yes you are missing the point as you put it
I'll do my best to try and enlighten you
You most definitely will need to set the valve timing for each cylinder in turn before removing the old CCT's. The reason being is, if the engine is not in the right position of it's cycle some of the valves may be partly open. This will cause a load on the cam chain, so as soon as you remove the CCT the pressure from the partly open valve will cause the cam wheel to turn while the cam chain stands still. You will then have to re-set the valve timing. (The piston in the cylinder you're working on needs to be at TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke and all timing marks lined up as I've described at the beginning of this topic!
To fit APE CCT's follow my instruction just the same for fitting or changing the standard CCT's, but obviously you'll need to set the APE CCT's as they recommend.
Also APE recommend (unless they've changed it of course) you need to remove both cam covers so you can measure the amount of deflection (up and down movement) of the cam chain between the two cam wheels.
Cheers,
Chris.