Hi everyone,
I maybe am unnecessarily worried as i have only had the bike a month but :
After my first decent length/speed ride i noticed coolant had sprayed down the left side of the bike from the engine area (just below where the fairing finishes) to along the rear chainguard & hugger.
I left the bike overnight & in the morning their was a small green pool (approx the size of a tax disc) under the engine from what i could see it had been dribbling from quite high up (under the carb typ area) Sorry not too technical!
It seems to have stopped now even after another good ride & the temp guage never got above half way.
The coolant bottle (RHS) has some in!
OK or not???? advice appreciated
Phil.
Coolant leak or?
Coolant leak or?
Have fun & Ride Safe.
Phil.
Phil.
nope get it checked out.
Phil,
no coolant should leak from the system at all. Sounds like a hose may be loose or somit. The expansion tank will not refill the system, it's just somewhere for the coolant to blow-off (excuse the language) too if the engine get real hot. Coolant passes through the carbs too, check those pipes, one comes from the water pump cover on the right and the other comes from the thermostat housing, then there is a link pipe between the carbs. The sender unit for the temp gauge is in the thermostat housing so the level could get pretty low before before the gauge starts giving wrong readings. It'll be worth taking the fairing off to check it all over and check the level in the rads. Make sure the bike is cold when you do it.
Del.
no coolant should leak from the system at all. Sounds like a hose may be loose or somit. The expansion tank will not refill the system, it's just somewhere for the coolant to blow-off (excuse the language) too if the engine get real hot. Coolant passes through the carbs too, check those pipes, one comes from the water pump cover on the right and the other comes from the thermostat housing, then there is a link pipe between the carbs. The sender unit for the temp gauge is in the thermostat housing so the level could get pretty low before before the gauge starts giving wrong readings. It'll be worth taking the fairing off to check it all over and check the level in the rads. Make sure the bike is cold when you do it.
Del.
Thanks Del,
Leak has started again, so will check it out SOON.
Ps. When cold... yes... burnt hand rummaging around this morning!!!!!!
Also probably not related, BUT occasionally stalls when pulling up at junctions or stopped in traffic. Idles at approx 1150 RPM is it too low or do I have another prob.
Cheers.
Phil.
Leak has started again, so will check it out SOON.
Ps. When cold... yes... burnt hand rummaging around this morning!!!!!!
Also probably not related, BUT occasionally stalls when pulling up at junctions or stopped in traffic. Idles at approx 1150 RPM is it too low or do I have another prob.
Cheers.
Phil.
Have fun & Ride Safe.
Phil.
Phil.
Not SOON
Phil,
check it out now not SOON cos you'll be getting hot spots in the engine if the level is getting low and then you'll be needing a new engine, but hey I have one you can buy. Don't know about the stalling, the one I used everyday never stalled, was using two different engines with different setup's too. Stalling is normal related to carb balance (but this normal just pulls the tickover down) and pilot mixture, this is a funny area. If you get it setup on a dyno using a lamda (spelling dooh) sensor then you'll probably find it'll run too lean when the bike is actually being used on the road. It'll hunt or pop real bad when you come off 1/2 to full throttle when coasting in to a corner etc. Cold weather makes is really obvious because it'll pop and fart (you can hear it in the cylinders) when trying to cruise in a high gear at low rpm on 1/8 throttle. Blah Blah I do go on. I normally do the pilot screws on tickover then adjust em daily until the bike runs perfect and doesn't stall, hunt or lean out. Always done this when I've swapped engines and it takes about a week of riding (too and from work) and then it's sorted. Nearly always end up on the rich side too.
Del.
check it out now not SOON cos you'll be getting hot spots in the engine if the level is getting low and then you'll be needing a new engine, but hey I have one you can buy. Don't know about the stalling, the one I used everyday never stalled, was using two different engines with different setup's too. Stalling is normal related to carb balance (but this normal just pulls the tickover down) and pilot mixture, this is a funny area. If you get it setup on a dyno using a lamda (spelling dooh) sensor then you'll probably find it'll run too lean when the bike is actually being used on the road. It'll hunt or pop real bad when you come off 1/2 to full throttle when coasting in to a corner etc. Cold weather makes is really obvious because it'll pop and fart (you can hear it in the cylinders) when trying to cruise in a high gear at low rpm on 1/8 throttle. Blah Blah I do go on. I normally do the pilot screws on tickover then adjust em daily until the bike runs perfect and doesn't stall, hunt or lean out. Always done this when I've swapped engines and it takes about a week of riding (too and from work) and then it's sorted. Nearly always end up on the rich side too.
Del.
Cheers again Del,
Will get it sorted (hopefully) tomorrow, after all I do need it to be fit for the TT
Will have another chat with John who set it up on his dyno, he said it was very slightly rich at top-end but about near perfect everywhere else. I think he thinks the tickover is a little low at 1150 but i havn't a clue!!!
Thanx for the offer of the engine but personally I hope it won't be necessary
Cheers mate
Will get it sorted (hopefully) tomorrow, after all I do need it to be fit for the TT
Will have another chat with John who set it up on his dyno, he said it was very slightly rich at top-end but about near perfect everywhere else. I think he thinks the tickover is a little low at 1150 but i havn't a clue!!!
Thanx for the offer of the engine but personally I hope it won't be necessary
Cheers mate
Have fun & Ride Safe.
Phil.
Phil.
Cheers Del, I owe you a pint.
The hose (V. short & not easy to see!) between rear cyl. & thermostat housing seems to be porous or somat. as eventually I saw some green spots start to appear (through the weave?) in the ruber at one end.
New hose ordered!
Tried all yesterday AM to find it, then had the offer of putting it on a dyno & watching it running before we eventually found the source!
Int. stalling still to trace, not happening too often though, & didn't happen on dyno!!!!
Ta. Phil
The hose (V. short & not easy to see!) between rear cyl. & thermostat housing seems to be porous or somat. as eventually I saw some green spots start to appear (through the weave?) in the ruber at one end.
New hose ordered!
Tried all yesterday AM to find it, then had the offer of putting it on a dyno & watching it running before we eventually found the source!
Int. stalling still to trace, not happening too often though, & didn't happen on dyno!!!!
Ta. Phil
Have fun & Ride Safe.
Phil.
Phil.