Timing chain stretched?

[Vladimir.S]

Hi guys!

I'm new here and new to Firestorms, got mine for a first big bike back in July, and currently I'm fiddling with it over the winter.

Now on topic, I got to changing the factory cam tensioners to manual ones and encountered a few issues on the way - when aligning the FT mark on crank there's like 1/2 tooth discrepancy on both FI and FE mark on cams. Would that suggest that I will need a new timing chain, as this one is stretched? Is that normal on higher mileage bikes (30k+)? Any advice is welcomed!

Cheers and Happy holidays!

[freeridenick]

Others with more CCT experience will be along shortly but my experience says that's normal and fine. No need for a new chain. The stock engine is in a pretty low state of tune and there's plenty of valve clearance. A half tooth out won't make much of a difference to a stock engine.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[sirch345]

As Nick has already said, half a tooth out is fine on these engines. As for 30K being high mileage, 100K miles has been reached on these engines that have been serviced as recommended with no major parts needing replacing before then, including cam chains,

Chris.

PS. Welcome aboard Vladimir

[Vladimir.S]

There's a picture for reference

[tony.mon]

Half a tooth out is fine, just set it to the nearest one.
Pull any slack in the chain in the opposite way to the direction of engine rotation.
Although you could fit new chains it makes no difference to power or torque, and the chains very rarely fail.

[Vladimir.S]

Thank you all for the replies, I've put the manuals in this morning and just left the timing as it was.

Bad thing is a cam cover bolt snapped hopefully whoever reads this will be more careful than me, as I hardly found one and it's a tenner for a fecking bolt, nevermind the whole process of drilling/extracting the old one

[sirch345]

Thank you all for the replies, I've put the manuals in this morning and just left the timing as it was.

Bad thing is a cam cover bolt snapped hopefully whoever reads this will be more careful than me, as I hardly found one and it's a tenner for a fecking bolt, nevermind the whole process of drilling/extracting the old one

That was unfortunate, although to be honest not hard to do.

It shouldn't to too hard to remove the sheared bit, as it is the shoulder on the cover-bolt that stops it from being screwed in any further and it shears at that point. Hopefully it's the rear cylinder as that is more accessible, just cover the holes in the cylinder head before removing the sheared off bit, you don't want that dropping down inside the engine

Chris.

[MacV2]

Thank you all for the replies, I've put the manuals in this morning and just left the timing as it was.

Bad thing is a cam cover bolt snapped hopefully whoever reads this will be more careful than me, as I hardly found one and it's a tenner for a fecking bolt, nevermind the whole process of drilling/extracting the old one

1/ You don't need to drill it out. Use a small pick or screwdriver to turn it out. As Shirch
said it wont be tight.

2/ You should have asked I've got loads of the buggers

3/ The manual says it's 10nm but hand tight is fine 1/2 a ugga dugga...

[Vladimir.S]

Unfortunately it's the bottom right one on the front cylinder, I'll sort it when I get the new one delivered.

Thanks guys!

[tony.mon]

Unfortunately it's the bottom right one on the front cylinder, I'll sort it when I get the new one delivered.

Thanks guys!

Remove the front wheel and the oil cooler and you'll be able to get to it.
Forks out of the stanchions and it's even easier.