If ONLY it was that easy!

[Donut 77]

The 8mm hex head is now more of a dodecahedron.

Any ideas how to remove and source replacement?

Currently soaking in WD40 then will try heat.

[tony.mon]

You did undo the nut at the other end, didn't you?
You can't undo the socket end until you do, if I recall correctly.

[Jamoi]

Plus gas penetrative fluid is good for releasing corroded stuff

[MacV2]

Start off by putting the nut back on the other end... Not tight...just enough to cover the threads & give it a whack withe a hammer ! That should get it moving. If it doesn't pull out... Take the nut off... Then get something slightly smaller diameter & hammer it through.

Done loads of these, never had a problem with that one getting stuck...

It's something that gets overlooked in maintance checks. at a minimum should be stripped & cleaned & re lubed every 2 years.

When I was Stormin to work I used to swap the whole linkage every 6 months...That was 14000miles a year in all weathers.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda- ... 00/2/11498

You'll need 8,15 & 17.

Unfortunately David Silvers spares say 15 is dicontinued...90108-MBB-000

[MacV2]

Oh & Wd40 is uesless for this...Get PlusGas...

Apparently 50/50 Acetone & Automatic Transmision Fluid..(ATF) is very good...

[Donut 77]

Thanks all. Yes, I did remove the nut first. The other two 7” ones are nut and bolt, but this one is a hex head. I was really careful, but it gave way. The head is rusted in. I’ve left it soaking and trying to see if I can source another. I did try and tap it out to release, but not budging.

I read a thread on here about the linkage arm splitting if not looked after, hence why as part of this strip down I was getting to it.

I think my main concern is whether I can get a replacement but I’m grateful to all your ideas.

[sirch345]

Plus gas penetrative fluid is good for releasing corroded stuff

I agree

Chris.

[Donut 77]

Start off by putting the nut back on the other end... Not tight...just enough to cover the threads & give it a whack withe a hammer !

That worked I think if I’m lucky there should still be enough of the Allen head to re-install if I can’t source one.

The 3 x 17mm nuts, are they nyloc? Should they be replaced as routine?

Why do I need the spacer? no 8 It has all remained inside the linkage arm. I was just going to grease it all back up and go?! obviously with maybe new bolt and nuts…

[Jamoi]

Glad Macs tip worked

Ideally you want to fully dismantle and degrease the linkages, then inspect the needle bearings and spacers for corrosion/wear. Then regrease and rebuild, you can re use any parts that look like they're in good condition.

[MacV2]

Start off by putting the nut back on the other end... Not tight...just enough to cover the threads & give it a whack withe a hammer !

That worked I think if I’m lucky there should still be enough of the Allen head to re-install if I can’t source one.

The 3 x 17mm nuts, are they nyloc? Should they be replaced as routine?

Why do I need the spacer? no 8 It has all remained inside the linkage arm. I was just going to grease it all back up and go?! obviously with maybe new bolt and nuts…

Because its rusted in place. It should come out easily. You'll be putting your new bolt in an already rusty spacer? You want this all moving smoothly as it's supposed to...

Trust me I've done loads of these the spaces & bolts need to be clean...

[Donut 77]

Okey doke. I’m happy to take your advice. I’m assuming that the m10 nuts at £3.50 each are special (hi torque?) and that I shouldn’t just use nyloc ones that I have from b & q?

[Jamoi]

Definitely use the o.e.m spec nuts

Don't use nyloc on the linkages.

[Donut 77]

To clarify, the bolt wasn't corroded into/through the spacer. All of that was in good condition.

The head of the bolt only was stuck in the L Cushion Lower Bracket (No. 2 on the diagram)

I plan to reuse the 10mm nuts. So they are self locking FUSE RASHI I'm guessing as the two little top lugs are sprung into the thread.

For £3.50 each, I would replace them, but then I would start to replace all the other bolts and then where does it stop?!

Am I being mad here for the sake of £25 for 7 nuts?

[Jamoi]

You are correct about the sprung tabs on the top of the nuts, they do a similar job to nyloc nuts, but are heat resistant.

What's wrong with the nuts you have removed? If they're damaged just order new ones. No need to start replacing other nuts/bolts if they're not worn.

Did you visually check the condition of the bearings in the linkages?

[Donut 77]

In the bracket that is black in Mac’s picture above, I have 2 questions:

1)The 17x24x5 dust seals are £3 each on Amazon - not OEM but will fit, arrive quickly and cheap. Comments please.

2)The two needle bearings - on one side it touches the dust seal, on the other side it is pushed right in so that there is a 10-15mm gap between the seal and bearing. To my untrained eye this doesn’t seem right but I don’t want to punch it out and buy new bearings unnecessarily.

I would’ve thought both bearings would be near the outside, sat in a channel with a spacer between??