sirch345 wrote:At least you have made a start and you didn't drop the petrol tank, although a shame about the shoes
How does it go again, "two out of three ain't bad"
Chris.
I would have cried if I dropped it haha!
Okay so I’ve had the carbs apart and given everything internally a good clean with carb cleaner!
first thing I noticed was carbon deposited around the butterfly valve, from what I’ve read it’s caused by combustion on the intake cycle which it yet another symptom of a lean mixture. (Please let me know if I’m mistaken)
Jets currently in the carb;
Front pilot 45s
Front main 175
Pilot screw 1 turn out
Rear pilot 45s
Rear main 178
Pilot screw 1&1/4 turn out
I’m pretty sure the rear pilot should be bigger than the front? Any suggestions on what size I should get hold of?
tony.mon wrote:No, depending on which market the bike was made for both pilot jets will either be 45 or 48.
The main jets are different front and rear, not the pilots.
I see! Thank you in that case I will move onto checking fuel and vac lines tomorrow morning! I will check the tps settings as soon as the multimeter that I ordered turns up (fingers crossed for tomorrow)
8541Hawk wrote:That is a real lean setting on the pilots. Should be closer to 2.5/3 turns out with 45s
This can cause the banging and popping
That’s what I was thinking! It’s strange that in the service book, I’ve had the bike a few weeks now but it states the carbs where “overhauled” last year. I don’t know who did it but they must have overlooked the mixture screws
Evening gents, unfortunately I didn’t get any time to work on the bike today, but Ive just adjusted the pilot screw to some suggested setting i found (3 front, 2&3/4 rear) see what those are like and go from there. But… I have a stray hose that’s bugging me as I can’t figure out why it’s there, looks like someone’s tee’s off from the front carb and it was left open (I put abit of tape on it when I was doing the cct’s the other week. Can someone tell me if this is even supposed to be there? It’s not for balancing the carbs as I’ve got a brass adapter for that cyclinder, but the rear cylinder vacuume from the tank hasn’t been tee’d off?
The pilot setting was most likely from looking at the spec for a bike with 48 pilots, T he mystery hose is from the PAIR system. It should run from the black plastic bit then to a "tee" fitting and the to the vacuum port on the carb. It gets lrft in place and plugged as you need to remove the carb stay to actually get to the @#$% thing. remove the stay and pull the line and replace it with one that runs from the air cut off (the black bit) stright to the vacuum fitting then reinstall the stay.
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
8541Hawk wrote:The pilot setting was most likely from looking at the spec for a bike with 48 pilots, T he mystery hose is from the PAIR system. It should run from the black plastic bit then to a "tee" fitting and the to the vacuum port on the carb. It gets lrft in place and plugged as you need to remove the carb stay to actually get to the @#$% thing. remove the stay and pull the line and replace it with one that runs from the air cut off (the black bit) stright to the vacuum fitting then reinstall the stay.
Thanks for the info there buddy! Looking at info into the pair system it seems like some people remove the whole pair system to stop popping on decel (which I am getting a lot of). As for the mystery hose, has it been left attached to nothing from the factory? I might look into doing the whole delete if I’m still getting a lot of popping after I finish my carb work, but for the mean time should I reconnect it if it’s supposed to go to something or leave it taped up?
Thanks again buddy and sorry for all the questions guys but I do enjoy about learning all this new stuff!
It is supposed to go to a valve mounted on the bottom of the air box which feeds air to the valve covers....just get rid of it all. Also if that was left open , it was a big vacuum leak which also added to the popping
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
After setting pilot screws to 3 turns out for the front, and 2&3/4 for the rear. Idle is smoother, carbs are pretty balanced, but the bike bogs and stalls over 3k revs! Any suggestions?
Update, as I don’t have a 90 degree screwdriver and I can’t fit my sausage fingers anywhere close to adjusting the screws I took the carbs off and wound both in half a turn, it’ll now rev ok up to 4k but then bogs and dies. I had a new set of spark plugs so I fitted those but it made no difference.
The old plugs looked fairly healthy. No obvious signs of richness or leanness!
All the bag hoses seem sealed nicely too.
Sat here scratching my head now, but I guess I’ll keep going leaner on the pilots until she’s no longer bogging
Tps now set to 494, it was at 880! A lot smoother on idle but still bogging down at over 4k rpm
I’m wondering if it’s because I haven’t got the air box on? All of this was tested with the velocity stack on and PAIr system connected (i removed the device from the air box and stuck it on)
tony.mon wrote:The pilot jets have almost no effect over 4k, so it's not them.
Why not put the airbox back and check if it improves?
It literally just twigged that without the air box and standard filter, the mix must be way out of wack I’m going to refit everything and try again!
Thanks tony!
Edit: It was the lack of airbox throwing the mid range out of wack! Test ride soon to come but I think my next jobs will be to check balance again with the airbox on, and do the Pair/smog system delete.
Got out to test my changes today. Same running problems, if not worse now!
Current idle setting Front 2 1/2, Rear 2& 1/4 turns out on 45s pilot jets.
Lots of stumbling and clunking at low rpm. Running fine at 4k rpm and over.
Opening the throttle quickly from idle and it pops a little while accelerating.
I found out at the petrol station that my battery doesn’t hold a charge anymore haha, I’ll put this down to all the cranking and charging I’ve been doing lately as voltages when running sit nicely around 14v.
My next plan of action is to do the pair/smog delete, and get an idle screw tool so I can play around with the mixes while the carbs are in situ. Then another carb balance. After that if there’s still no change I’m going to be thinking more electrical and start testing ht leads and ignition coils ect.
If anyone can think of anything else I can test or something glaringly obvious I’m missing (go easy on me I’m an amateur haha) please do let me know!
in that case I will move onto checking fuel and vac lines tomorrow morning! I will check the tps settings as soon as the multimeter that I ordered turns up (fingers crossed for tomorrow)
