VTR1000.ORG

That would most likely be the easier option,

Chris.

My opinion is no to RFID. Why introduce more electrical items than necessary that can go wrong and leave you stranded. Not only that you actually making it easier for the bike to be stolen as it would not take much for someone to get another key fob and hack into your ignition. There's more than likely a factory reset/bypass on it with a key combination order of pressing for certain amount of time or something or even a device out there for doing such thing. Then again it's probably easier to cut the wires and hot wire it.

I've coded and designed an RFID ignition based on an MSP430 microcontroller. Never got round to fitting it though as I sold the bike it was meant for. Might revisit it one day. Only cost about £10 in parts and I'd figured out a latching relay system that would stop any accidents or electronic gremlins from turning the bike on/off when you didn't want. You could add a servo or something for a steering lock too.

my car has keyless entry etc and its amazing, however its factory fitted and has a back up system fitted, i would always want that option.

Keyless car systems and bike RFID systems do differ slightly. Most car systems activate within a few metres, most bike systems require the RFID tag to be placed within a few CM of the reader to stop obvious issues. You could always add a backup system under the seat that you can only access with the key and you could easily design in a pin code, physical lock or other backup.
My system worked like this:
Push button to activate, turns on the power to the microcontroller and RFID reader, gives you 10 secs before turning off again.
Correct RFID tag detected and the electrics are enabled, optional timer to detect ignition started.
Push button again, all off.
Worked in testing on the bench

First post in this thread shows the system I was looking at. It did have fail safe and override functions and was supposed to be totally safe. Approach switch with tag in pocket, flick kill switch and electrics activate, push starter button off you go. Couple of vids on the site and range was about 2 meters. Don't want too much range or you could be started while sitting on the driveway and get nicked.

You would still need a key, like already said for the steering lock, and for the petrol cap, so if your already carrying the key might as well use it in the ignition.

bazza696 wrote:You would still need a key, like already said for the steering lock, and for the petrol cap, so if your already carrying the key might as well use it in the ignition.

The thing that puts me off would be the chance of riding away without the key for refuelling, leaving me stranded.

Actually, for me it's just down to which one is lightest

I think it's a good idea..

VTR Phoenix wrote: ↑Sun Jan 31, 2016 12:19 pm

It will only turn on if you flick the kill switch, with the kill switch off nothing will come on.

Not sure how this would work like that since the only thing the "kill" switch does is cut the power to the ECU/ICM while everything else still receives power.