newbie
newbie
hello all i have just got a 2000 vtr firestorm and want to ask you more experienced stormers for advice.
what are all the best bits,mods to do to my storm. its all std at the mo but i do have a db and art cans on there way
i was going to get a k&n fillter but after reading a few posts i dont know now. any advice will be gratefully recieved
what are all the best bits,mods to do to my storm. its all std at the mo but i do have a db and art cans on there way
i was going to get a k&n fillter but after reading a few posts i dont know now. any advice will be gratefully recieved
newbie
nhr22259 thanks for the reply mate, do you ever get over to squires cafe. i am from donny so go there most sundays.
If you want to improve your bike, then fork springs/oil and a new rear shock are the way to go. I had a WP shock and springs fitted by MCTechnics. Cost £500, but totally transformed the bike.
A hugger helps to keep the road crap off the shock and linkages. Pretty much essential for anybody who rides on wet roads.
Loud cans and big v-twins just sound so good imo, other people may not agree - particularly your neighbours and the local constabluary. I have Carbon Can Co silencers on mine, they're quite well made, fitted easily and are not offensively loud if you fit the baffles in them.
I've also fitted VFR750 handlebars. They are about 30mm higher than standard and make the bike more comfortable to ride, though the left bar just fouls the fairing at full lock. I'm getting on a bit now though, maybe you're young and fit enough to cope with the standard riding position.
Most other stuff is just cosmetic - double bubble screens, fairing lowers etc. Buy it if you like the look, but it will not improve your bike's performance or value.
A hugger helps to keep the road crap off the shock and linkages. Pretty much essential for anybody who rides on wet roads.
Loud cans and big v-twins just sound so good imo, other people may not agree - particularly your neighbours and the local constabluary. I have Carbon Can Co silencers on mine, they're quite well made, fitted easily and are not offensively loud if you fit the baffles in them.
I've also fitted VFR750 handlebars. They are about 30mm higher than standard and make the bike more comfortable to ride, though the left bar just fouls the fairing at full lock. I'm getting on a bit now though, maybe you're young and fit enough to cope with the standard riding position.
Most other stuff is just cosmetic - double bubble screens, fairing lowers etc. Buy it if you like the look, but it will not improve your bike's performance or value.
i was very suprised on the test ride how well the bike felt on the suspension,i was expecting it to be soft and diving at the front but it was not! my last bike was a cbr600 and i had to set up the suspension hard all round to get a decent ride. i have only had two good runs out on dry roads so far but the bike is still feeling nice and set up. i am not messing with the setting yet i will be geting a hugger as i do have to ride all year round.
druid define getting on a bit,i find the riding position good and i am 44 years young
druid define getting on a bit,i find the riding position good and i am 44 years young
- Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
You might wanna check with the previous owner if he had the forks done mate.
As standard they are tolerable for normal pottering (especially in these slimy salty crap conditions) but hard use will very easily show their limitations
Cheap ish fix is ohlins springs and oil (under £100)
Next is throwing them at Roger from Revolution racing for respring and revalve. (£200)
Blade forks look better but still need re-springing and oiling to work better than standard (£500 ish)
Rear shocks are plentiful but if you're buying new a Penske is the one to go for.
WP are good, as are Ohlins but they both tend to over-spring and then use stiffer damping to control it. The Penske is sprung to match your weight (including middle age spread -44years YOUNG!!!! ) and riding style and then damped accordingly
Hugger is a must, see what you like the look of. I've got a Pyramid one coz it extends under the swing-arm to keep more crud off the linkages. However it doesn't have a chain guard so you have to use the standard Honda one as well
Cans come down to budget, IMO Remus sound the nicest without being over the top noisy. Art are loud but cheaper.
K&N is a must as far as I'm concerned but it needs to be rejetted and setup too.
Mine paid for itself due to increased fuel consumption (and tank range) in less than a year!!
Other stuff on mine
Crash bungs
RC45 throttle twistgrip (quicker action)
Braided hoses
Bendix pads (EBC HH's are good too)
Better headlight bulb
Undertray (give LOADS more room under the seat)
Pyramid fairing lower (looks good but decks out on track though)
Modified standard footpegs for MUCH more ground clearance
Track bodywork
Spare wheels
As you can see the possibilities are endless so see what you like/can afford and then ask. Someone will have hints/ tips and pics to point you in the right direction
Ben
As standard they are tolerable for normal pottering (especially in these slimy salty crap conditions) but hard use will very easily show their limitations
Cheap ish fix is ohlins springs and oil (under £100)
Next is throwing them at Roger from Revolution racing for respring and revalve. (£200)
Blade forks look better but still need re-springing and oiling to work better than standard (£500 ish)
Rear shocks are plentiful but if you're buying new a Penske is the one to go for.
WP are good, as are Ohlins but they both tend to over-spring and then use stiffer damping to control it. The Penske is sprung to match your weight (including middle age spread -44years YOUNG!!!! ) and riding style and then damped accordingly
Hugger is a must, see what you like the look of. I've got a Pyramid one coz it extends under the swing-arm to keep more crud off the linkages. However it doesn't have a chain guard so you have to use the standard Honda one as well
Cans come down to budget, IMO Remus sound the nicest without being over the top noisy. Art are loud but cheaper.
K&N is a must as far as I'm concerned but it needs to be rejetted and setup too.
Mine paid for itself due to increased fuel consumption (and tank range) in less than a year!!
Other stuff on mine
Crash bungs
RC45 throttle twistgrip (quicker action)
Braided hoses
Bendix pads (EBC HH's are good too)
Better headlight bulb
Undertray (give LOADS more room under the seat)
Pyramid fairing lower (looks good but decks out on track though)
Modified standard footpegs for MUCH more ground clearance
Track bodywork
Spare wheels
As you can see the possibilities are endless so see what you like/can afford and then ask. Someone will have hints/ tips and pics to point you in the right direction
Ben
You're getting on a bit...logan7 wrote: druid define getting on a bit,i find the riding position good and i am 44 years young
but a bit less than me ;)
My WP was also sprung to match my weight (and middle age spread ) - maybe it depends who supplies the shock?Stormin Ben wrote: ...
WP are good, as are Ohlins but they both tend to over-spring and then use stiffer damping to control it. The Penske is sprung to match your weight (including middle age spread -44years YOUNG!!!! ) and riding style and then damped accordingly
- Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
Had this on my old ZZR, turned out to be the brake disk bobbins were not the right size!!VTR1000KAZ wrote:Although it doesn't feel like it all the time.....but sometimes its as if the forks are loose/rocking back and forth.......like I said tho...it doesn't feel like this all the time.....mainly on braking gently. Any other ideas???
When you put the brakes on they 'clunked' round slightly before biting
Other thoughts,
The old favorite steering head bearings or possibly worn fork bushes?
If you raise the front off the ground (block under the engine is favourite) see if there's any front to back movement in the forks
Or wheel bearing
As above but grip the wheel at top and bottom and wiggle it. Any movement and either the bearings are going or the other half didn't tighten the spindle up last time he was tinkering (you haven't just taken out a whopping life insurance policy have you? )
Druid, what I was trying to say (badly!!) was that even when they are 'sprung to match your weight' the weight of spring they use is usually still too firm.Druid wrote:My WP was also sprung to match my weight (and middle age spread ) - maybe it depends who supplies the shock?
Ben
Kaz wrote
Although it doesn't feel like it all the time.....but sometimes its as if the forks are loose/rocking back and forth.......like I said tho...it doesn't feel like this all the time.....mainly on braking gently. Any other ideas???[Quote]
Hi Kaz,
It could be anything really from a sticking piston in the brake calipiers to worn steering head bearings. Did you ask your other half if he noticed it as well? If it were me i'd get it checked out if the both of you can not find the problem, just incase of any potential danger, it may be nothing serious at all!
cheers Chris.
Although it doesn't feel like it all the time.....but sometimes its as if the forks are loose/rocking back and forth.......like I said tho...it doesn't feel like this all the time.....mainly on braking gently. Any other ideas???[Quote]
Hi Kaz,
It could be anything really from a sticking piston in the brake calipiers to worn steering head bearings. Did you ask your other half if he noticed it as well? If it were me i'd get it checked out if the both of you can not find the problem, just incase of any potential danger, it may be nothing serious at all!
cheers Chris.