Looks like Tony has rescued the head So with the rebuild looming..........
I've read a lot on here about tensioners and I was going to just plonk in some manual tensioners in but before I do. Does anyone have a suggested type? There seem to be a few on ebay and all look more or less the same also I ve read about modifying the automatic tensioners so they do not fail. suggestions please........
The advantage of Bazza's modified manual tensioners is that the front one is much easier to adjust where the other options are much shorter putting the adjuster nut behind a coolant pipe which has little or no flex. Although they rarely need adjusting why would you make life harder when you don't need to, they are cheaper too. Shoot Bazza a PM and he'll sort you out, just make sure you send him your old ones so he can keep a supply going to help others out
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http://www.bidefordmotorcycles.co.uk
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
madmax wrote:Looks like Tony has rescued the head So with the rebuild looming..........
I've read a lot on here about tensioners and I was going to just plonk in some manual tensioners in but before I do. Does anyone have a suggested type? There seem to be a few on ebay and all look more or less the same also I ve read about modifying the automatic tensioners so they do not fail. suggestions please........
Thanks Tony head arrived today looks very nice will be sure to re check give a good clean and recheck all shims once installed!
Head gasket ordered and decided to go with Bazza's tensioner mod (thanks Bazza for coming back to me) sorted it today and hopefully paid the right person on Paypal :0/
I am I missing anything? I'm cool with timing up and all that but if anyone has any last words of wisdom they would be greatly appreciated. Hindsight is a wonderful thing and all that!
not sure if this is a subjest for a fresh post as going a bit off track from the valves!
Just having a closer look at my carbs and I discovered a problem. I found a crack where one of the hoses plugs in. looks like its been there a while and running ok up until now! unfortunatly the plug had had sheared in the carb. most of it came out but does not look great in there and even if I get it all out and find a new plug (has two small o'rings on it) am not convinced it will make a tight seal. I do know a tig welder, I could try closing up the gap and welding the crack but I think I am cluthing at straws to be honest any one know where I can get one of these plugs or any sugestions!?
Now IIRC it's an interference fit on them and the side mounted plate between the two carbs hooks over the rounded donut bit towards the base and holds it in place. They do have a little natural wobble in them so the crack is only going to make things worse. You may get lucky or may not with welding. Personally I would change the carbs. It may save you cleaning them too That's under pressure as well those coolant hoses. There is the option of capping them off, bypassing and not using them but I wouldn't. They not only act as a de-icer but the warmth of the fluid flowing through the carbs has an affect on helping to atomise the the fuel.
So these are just coolant pipes? I wont be permanently bypassing them, however I would like to use the existing carbs once am done with the timing etc just to test start/run the bike before throwing another carb I ve not tested on the bike into the mix.
Seen a few carbs on ebay they seem like there easy enough to get hold of. Does anyone on here have any for sale? I still cant post on wanted as still under 50 posts!
Last edited by madmax on Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Try the weld it might work, it's worth a try. At worst all it's going to do is leak a bit of coolant. While your messing with carbs, be very careful with the plastic Choke nuts on the carb end as these have a very fine thread and don't over-tighten as they snap easily. If you are removing or refitting the choke, a tip is to pull the rubber off over the lip of the nut so it spins easier, then refit the rubber back over the lip. It's easier to refit the carbs with the choke cable attached. There's always carbs for sale on eBay and I'm sure there are members with spares but there's none in the sales section here at the moment as far as I know. By the time you have the weld and have test ridden etc you will have reached your 50 post count limit.
If that's the coolant carb heater inlet or outlet, forget it.
Make up a shortcut pipe between the thermostat housing and the water pump housing, ride and forget.
I did this ages back when I had a huge airbox fitted and the pipes wouldn't fit easily and had no carb icing at all, ever.
And I rode in all weathers.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
If that's the coolant carb heater inlet or outlet, forget it.
Make up a shortcut pipe between the thermostat housing and the water pump housing, ride and forget.
I did this ages back when I had a huge airbox fitted and the pipes wouldn't fit easily and had no carb icing at all, ever.
And I rode in all weathers.
Sounds good........but.......
not quite sure where your meanin to bypass. If these are in and out could I not simply join the two pipes together so the rad fluid just circulates around bypassing the carbs?
thermostat housing and the water pump housing
Is that where these two pipes retrospectively lead too?
Thanks Tony Will give this a go after I get my gasket, can at least get her running and will prevent any more hold ups. If it causes me an issue in the future I will look into sorting then. I hardly ride my VTR off season now anyway so hopefully wont cause me any drama..
All going well but my gut tells me something is not quite right.
Front head on (Thanks Tony) timed up coolent pipe bypassed for now, Manual CCT's fitted (Thanks Bazza) turned flywheel a few times by hand and all feels good on the front cylinder but there is a sound of what I think is an air leak from the rear cylinder (dont have a comprosion tester to check at the min) I can hear air either being drawn in or blown through the inlet where the carb attaches when turning the flywheel (was losing light and didnt have alot of time left so put her to bed for the night)
The front which had the damage doesnt do this. I dont have any reason to think the valves on the rear cylinder have been damaged as the timing is correct, the chain has not slipped on the rear (unless it managed to slip and fall bck into pefect timing) and the tensioner is fine. Is it normal to hear this kind of noise? I get no such noise from the repaired front cylinder.