The exhaust stud has now sheared off flush and that was after been as gentle & deliberate as feasible with loads of soaking and the use of a stud impact removal tool.
Now the head has to be removed. Please could someone chronologically list the procedure and what peripherals need to be removed to gain access to remove the head. Should I set the front pot to TDC prior to removing the cams.
Yep set to tdc on the front cylinder .
Remove
Fairings
Radiators and drain the front cylinder it's a 10mm bolt by the exhaust port .
Remove Oil cooler from top bracket and give it a good clean around there .
Remove Cam cover and CCT .
Remove cams (don't drop the cam chain in the engine so tie it up to the guids .
Undo the two 10mm bolts next to the cam chain now in an opposing direction undo the 14mm head bolts .
Once they are all off tap and lift the head off be carful not to loose the dowels in the engine or on the floor .
Have fun
lloydie wrote:Yep set to tdc on the front cylinder .
Remove
Fairings
Radiators and drain the front cylinder it's a 10mm bolt by the exhaust port .
Remove Oil cooler from top bracket and give it a good clean around there .
Remove Cam cover and CCT .
Remove cams (don't drop the cam chain in the engine so tie it up to the guids .
Undo the two 10mm bolts next to the cam chain now in an opposing direction undo the 14mm head bolts .
Once they are all off tap and lift the head off be carful not to loose the dowels in the engine or on the floor .
Have fun
You say to remove the radiators that will mean draining them first, will they drain from the bolt below the exhaust port on the front cylinder, or is there a better place to drain the coolant from?? I presume I don't have to remove the carbs?? Also once the head is removed I am going to have to take it to an engineering shop would it be prudent to nip up the cams to hold in the buckets & shims in & replace the rocker cover?
Last edited by darkember on Sat Dec 07, 2013 5:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bit of shitter!! I don't know about storms but on the sv I undid and remove the ducting but left the trottle cables!
I love the fact that the timeline make it sound sooo simple. I spent half hour getting the head off the dowells and that was me pulling the head through the forks and my dad gently tapping with a rubber malet.
A top tip would be to get something attached the exhaust outlet. Removing the head on mine was a tad easier as I still had the header attached and was able to use that to grab hold off!
Yes carbs off as they are fitted to the head . Thermostat too and air box .
Refit the cams after you have taken the head of so that the buckets don't fall out and refit the cam cover .
First time doing it take the day and take pictures so you know how to rebuild it when the time comes .
If you have a mig welder get a large mild steel washer with the centre hole the same diameter as the snapped stud and weld the washer to the snapped stud. Then place a mild steel nut on top of that and weld through the centre of that. The heat from welding will also help release it. Never done it on a storm but this has never failed for me on numerous snaped studs
Watty wrote:If you have a mig welder get a large mild steel washer with the centre hole the same diameter as the snapped stud and weld the washer to the snapped stud. Then place a mild steel nut on top of that and weld through the centre of that. The heat from welding will also help release it. Never done it on a storm but this has never failed for me on numerous snaped studs
Watty wrote:If you have a mig welder get a large mild steel washer with the centre hole the same diameter as the snapped stud and weld the washer to the snapped stud. Then place a mild steel nut on top of that and weld through the centre of that. The heat from welding will also help release it. Never done it on a storm but this has never failed for me on numerous snaped studs
+1 what have you got to lose
A perfectly good washer?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
