Al,Shaun
First thing to do it make the small tool (well it's a T piece made from thin sheet, steel ally sheet what ever) that's needed to reinsert the tensioner as it is sprung loaded and only comes out as it's on a ratchet. To push the plunger back-in you have to apply pressure to the end and use a small screw driver to wind it back in, once in keep pressure applied and install T piece, stops it coming out until you have fixed it back on the cylinder head.
Next you will have to remove the two covers on the alternator cover (one is so you can turn the crank and t other is to see the timing marks). Also buy two tension gaskets to go between them and the cylinder heads and a tube of hylermar (don't know how to spell that)
Note: only turn crank shaft anti-clockwise else you will be attempting to open valves against tensioners!!!!!!!!!!!!
Next you need to remove petrol tank (this should be easy using the U shaped allen key in the tool box) has 5 hoses (2 fuel, 1 breather, 1 overflow and 1 vacuum for the fuel tap) and the cable for the fuel sender located just behind tank. Then you need to remove the rear rocker cover. Undo the four chrome (or they used to be) bolts on top of the cover, when they are out try not to get crud etc in the holes. Then remove the rocker cover, easiest way (well keeping the gasket attached to the cover) is to lift it using the half-moon pieces of the gasket with ya fingers. Now you can see the valve train, turn the crank anti-clockwise until the RearExhaust and FrontInlet marks on the cam wheels are flush with the top of the cylinder head casting and facing outwards (if you don't who which is the inlet and outlet then best put it back together now), you should also notice the FT mark and the flywheel through the inspection hole on the alternator cover and the cams lobes should both be facing inwards and about 35ish degrees or somit.
If this is the case then you can undo the rear tensioner, undo the bolt a little and then if the tensioner has not moved just give it a tap then use the bolts to remove it as the tensioner will then fully unload (two M6 allen head bolts), also loosen the small bolt at the end of the tensioner first (8mm spanner).
Ohh give up, havn't even got to the front cylinder yet and that's not easily explained if you don't wanna remove the rocker cover cos of all the other sh1t that has to come off first, rads, etc. This will end up about three pages long, best thing to do is either get em changed when you have you clearances checked as all the donkey work would have already been paid for, ie strip down. Wait to they go pop. Buy a manual and if you still have questions post em. Or cross my palm with silver and I'll do em for ya's one day. Or for the cost of a dealer to do it I could sell you an engine for £500, with valve clearances done while ya wait.
Del.
. Does anybody Know or a good honda dealer or independant garage around the Northampton area 
( all the ones i've used b4 have been pants ). 
