help fitting manual cct's...

[bullie23]

hi there... right thanks to tony and bazza i've got my manual cct's today....

question is i know how to fit the auto's. the manuals should be the same up to where i have to put the tension on... how far do i have to wind them in and how do i tell if there is enough tension...



bullie

[AMCQ46]

set the length same as the std one you remove is a good starting point. but the best way is to do it with the cam cover off

you want to set the rear one with enough tension to have about 5 to 10mm slack in the center of the top run of the chain..........on TDC

you get a feel for that tension by hand, and do the same on the front cyl.

start bike up and make sure there is no squeel [too tight] and no bad rattle [too slack]

[bullie23]

its the starting it... thats the bit i'm worried about... cause i'm a heavy handed bugger and knowing my luck i'm overtighten them way to much...

[AMCQ46]

the rear one will be ok if you set by chain slack, so only the front to worry about. When running back it out till it rattles then tighten till it just stops

[bullie23]

what do i need... tread lock and gasket paste... is that it....

[AMCQ46]

Yes, that's all

[Miztaziggy]

I just did mine last weekend mate and had the same problem.

Basically, follow the instructions on here. When fitting the new ones, wind them out before fitting and put a ring of gasket paste on the thread. Now place into position and bolt onto bike. Wind in by hand until it becomes hand tight. Dont over do it, just nice and snug.

I then put a socket on it, turned it another half turn then tightened the locking bolt as tight as I could. That worked fine for me, no rattle and no squeal.

[tony.mon]

Ziggy, that sounds like you have them too tight...
The problem with saying "hand tight" is that some people can get a fair bit of torque on a bolt, and some will stop as soon as it touches.
If you've wound it is as far as you can then added another half a turn the camchain will be tight as a bowstring.

as AMcQ says, have a look at the top chain run between the sprockets on the rear cams, as they're real easy to get to.
You want to see a few mm slack when the engine is set to rear tdc and the cam lobes pit toward each other on the rear cylinder.

Feel what tension is on the bolt by hand, and then achieve similar tension on the front one with the engine in the correct place (one and a quarter turns anti clockwise for the rear one) without having to take off the front cam cover.

As an alternative, quicker method, adjust each one in turn with the engine running at about 2000, undo it until you hear a slight rattle, then do it up just enough that the rattle stops, no more.
Then do the other one, and remember to turn the tickover back down to 1350. Do this with the engine warm.

Leaving them the way they are if too tight will lead to excess wear on the head journals where the cam runs.

[bullie23]

hello there.... right today i fitted my manual cct,s.... i have a problem... i still have the noise from the chain... but i've tighten the tension up and now the starter is fighting to start... i can still start it but the motor makes a noise on start up.... any ideas or someone in the west midlands area who can help me with set up...abit puzzled now....


bullie

[benny hedges]

you need to slacken them off m8... too much tension will damage the cam plain bearing and stretch the chain, and sap power.
suggest you remove the rear cam cover and centre guide to get an idea how tight they are, then set the front one up the same measurement on the adjusting bolt.

[bullie23]

i'll slacken them off first thing... the chain slap seems to be coming from the front....
is it a big job to change the cam chain...

[darkember]

hello there.... right today i fitted my manual cct,s.... i have a problem... i still have the noise from the chain... but i've tighten the tension up and now the starter is fighting to start... i can still start it but the motor makes a noise on start up.... any ideas or someone in the west midlands area who can help me with set up...abit puzzled now....


bullie

You sure its the chain & not the valves. What mileage has the bike done & when were the valve clearances last checked?

[benny hedges]

i'll slacken them off first thing... the chain slap seems to be coming from the front....
is it a big job to change the cam chain...

front camchain just involves taking off the flywheel and starter gear iirc.
can you not let another member have a listen to it before you waste money on something you may not need?
try setting the idle a bit higher see if it goes away.
theyre not exactly a quiet engine at the best of times!

[bullie23]

the bike as done 19,500k... do know when the valve clearance was done... but the noise comes on about 3.5 and goes just after 4.5 revs thats
why i thought it was the chain... i'm not far from other members just waiting for one to actually see this thread....

[AMCQ46]

The cam chain will not need replacing, they should last the life of the engine.

on the CCT, slightly slack is better than tight, remember that the expansion of the cylinder block when hot will make the chain tighter, so when cold there should be a hint of rattle.

I can have a listen to it if you can get over to Solihull after 8pm, can be available most nights, but give us some advanced warning