Sheared studs
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Sheared studs
As expected the studs on my front cylinder sheared. I was actually very surprised at how little force I put into the nut before it sheared :-(
There is about 5-8mm of each stud still showing but no matter how tight I get a pair of mole grips on them, they will not turn and the mole grips slip off...does this mean I gave to drill them out?
There is about 5-8mm of each stud still showing but no matter how tight I get a pair of mole grips on them, they will not turn and the mole grips slip off...does this mean I gave to drill them out?
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Sheared studs
Hmm since posting this I have read a load of posts on here about same thing. Going to borrow elec welder tomorrow to weld a steel bar on and try that.
Do I need to disconnect ecu or anything before welding?
If this fails, will try getting oxy acetylene to heat up but will this melt the head?
Do I need to disconnect ecu or anything before welding?
If this fails, will try getting oxy acetylene to heat up but will this melt the head?
Re: Sheared studs
I'd disconnect the ecu, battery and maybe even the alternator bits in the engine. Might be overkill, but it's a lot cheaper than blowing them up.
Depending on how good you are with the welder, you could try welding a nut onto the stem sticking out and the use that to remove it?
Depending on how good you are with the welder, you could try welding a nut onto the stem sticking out and the use that to remove it?
Re: Sheared studs
Give the studs several good whacks with a big hammer before welding the nut on, to shock the threads in the head.
If welding nuts on doesn't work, you might be as well off just removing the head and holding the studs in a vice.
That'll grip them tight enough to remove them.
All it'll cost you is some time and a new head gasket.
If you need to drill them out, I'd suggest doing this anyway, as it's easy to get the angle wrong and drill into the head itself.
If welding nuts on doesn't work, you might be as well off just removing the head and holding the studs in a vice.
That'll grip them tight enough to remove them.
All it'll cost you is some time and a new head gasket.
If you need to drill them out, I'd suggest doing this anyway, as it's easy to get the angle wrong and drill into the head itself.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Sheared studs
If I disconnect battery and ecu then the alarm is still connected and I can't disconnect that....also there look to be 2 ecu boxes, will both need removing?
Will it likely destroy the datatool 3 box?
Should I remove all fuses too?
Thanks Tony I will do that and remove the head to drill if this fails :-( fingers crossed
Will it likely destroy the datatool 3 box?
Should I remove all fuses too?
Thanks Tony I will do that and remove the head to drill if this fails :-( fingers crossed
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Sheared studs
Well I got them both out without welding...first one came free with mole grips after a few hits with a hammer and filing a flat edge on the stud.
The second was shorter and too short to weld really, so after trying everything, I used a dremmel to cut the collar on the head back by about 4 mm to remove the part of the head the stud was seized it. Went right round the aluminium collar and when it was done, the stud came out really easily with a circle of the aluminium collar still attached to it.
The second was shorter and too short to weld really, so after trying everything, I used a dremmel to cut the collar on the head back by about 4 mm to remove the part of the head the stud was seized it. Went right round the aluminium collar and when it was done, the stud came out really easily with a circle of the aluminium collar still attached to it.
Re: Sheared studs
you'll need to cut the same off the other collar or the clamp wont sit straight mate unless your going to reattach the bit you cut off.Miztaziggy wrote:Well I got them both out without welding...first one came free with mole grips after a few hits with a hammer and filing a flat edge on the stud.
The second was shorter and too short to weld really, so after trying everything, I used a dremmel to cut the collar on the head back by about 4 mm to remove the part of the head the stud was seized it. Went right round the aluminium collar and when it was done, the stud came out really easily with a circle of the aluminium collar still attached to it.
98% of all Harleys ever sold are still on the road. The other 2% made it home
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Re: Sheared studs
Surely it will still sit straight?
The clamp only goes down the pipe as far as the fat end piece that sits inside the head. If I tighten the stud on the normal collar first and then the shorter collar second, it should be ok shouldnt it?
The clamp only goes down the pipe as far as the fat end piece that sits inside the head. If I tighten the stud on the normal collar first and then the shorter collar second, it should be ok shouldnt it?
Re: Sheared studs
Yes, it'll still sit straight.
The clamp doesn't fit flush with the head; it is merely pulled evenly towards it by stud tension.
The clamp doesn't fit flush with the head; it is merely pulled evenly towards it by stud tension.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Sheared studs
sorry mate my mistake, i've only ever done car exhausts thought they would be same, teach me to look 1st eh
98% of all Harleys ever sold are still on the road. The other 2% made it home
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Re: Sheared studs
No worries
I would have thought the same to be honest, but my neighbour is some sort of mechanic whiz, he took a look and when he couldnt get the stillsons to grip, he told me to do what I did. He said it would be fine so im hoping there are no problems when I put it all back together.
I would have thought the same to be honest, but my neighbour is some sort of mechanic whiz, he took a look and when he couldnt get the stillsons to grip, he told me to do what I did. He said it would be fine so im hoping there are no problems when I put it all back together.
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Re: Sheared studs
Lol - its a smart fix the first time - the second time that little collar on the head is going to get too short to cut back any more.
The only down side I see is that part of the stud's thread will be exposed. I dont ride in the rain or in winter, so not a major issue for me, but the next owner may find that it will sieze in the thread quite badly?
The only down side I see is that part of the stud's thread will be exposed. I dont ride in the rain or in winter, so not a major issue for me, but the next owner may find that it will sieze in the thread quite badly?
Re: Sheared studs
can you get the stud out of the cut off bit and use it like a washer mate sillicone it on or something. stop the weather getting inMiztaziggy wrote:Lol - its a smart fix the first time - the second time that little collar on the head is going to get too short to cut back any more.
The only down side I see is that part of the stud's thread will be exposed. I dont ride in the rain or in winter, so not a major issue for me, but the next owner may find that it will sieze in the thread quite badly?
98% of all Harleys ever sold are still on the road. The other 2% made it home
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Re: Sheared studs
Hmm
Maybe I could - its in the garage I didnt throw it away so might try.
I would expect that the grip needed on the little 'polo' shaped piece of alloy around the stud will crush / deform it badly though....but if it does, I might pack the stud with a few copper washers and pack them in tight to form a seal.
Maybe I could - its in the garage I didnt throw it away so might try.
I would expect that the grip needed on the little 'polo' shaped piece of alloy around the stud will crush / deform it badly though....but if it does, I might pack the stud with a few copper washers and pack them in tight to form a seal.