wrecked me clutch :/

[benny hedges]

ah well, suppose it's a consumable item... and i have being wellying the bike lately.
2nd, 3rd & 4th, give it full throttle, hits 7k and the clutch slips like fek
new springs & plates methinks, or possibly get away with just friction plates.

same went on me 750, must be sumat to do with my riding style... hardly use the clutch tbh and last few rides i noticed the bite point has moved considerably - just touching the lever sets it spinning.

so i was wondering, has anyone used ebc or barnet with good results?
if i'm spending dosh i'd rather uprate it so i'd prefer the barnet... or a proper slipper?
only one i know of was made by TT (?) but it's discontinued for the storm, last time i looked

ideas on a postcard please...

[geodude]

Can't help you with what to choose as I don't have a scoobie.

When you do change it, any chance of a step by step idiots guide with pics? I'll even add to your drinks kitty I have put aside for you

[benny hedges]

? clutch is a piece of piss m8.
dont even have to drain the oil - just lean the bike over against a wall (left)
drain off the coolant, take the coolant pipes off the pump, unbolt the pump & casing 8mm bolts, tap the casing off the dowels, undo the clutch nut, take off the end cover and change the plates.
put it back together with a new gasket, refill the coolant - recommence wheelying and dragstrip starts lol

read the bloody manual lol!!!

[geodude]

drain off the coolant <<< Huh?? lol

[geodude]

The manual says its a 3 in complexity. I'm at level 2 max. Level 55 10th prestige in COD4 but motorbikes, still at level 2!!

[benny hedges]

yeh bud the water pump is inside the clutch casing so you have to drop the coolant to take the casing off or you get wet!
easiest way is to undo the bottom hose on the right rad, and then the smaller diameter hoses on the pump, the ones that go to the carbs...

you can reuse the coolant if you catch it all but ive got some 'engine ice' coolant to go back in when the clutch is done.... it's sposed to drop the temp by up to 20f

oh, also, the ignition pulse generator is inside the casing - 2 very small wires, so it needs to be disconnected or the casing handled carefully and tied up so not to damage the wires.

when the casing is off, you will see the advance rotor to the right of the clutch.... just in case you are thinking of putting a factory pro +2 or +4 advancer in

level3 my butt. throw that fkin haynes in the bin, it's a doddle m8!!!
get the proper manual from the workshop link

[geodude]

I will start working on my bike for sure. It can't be that difficult, but I have have a fear of borking it and leaving myself without a bike. No bike = nightmare getting to work. Once I get back to a two bike garage, I'll be more confident to give this stuff a go. If I break it, not only will I have you lot to help, I'll have the time also.

[tony.mon]

Got a spare clutch or two if you need one, after all it was trying to catch me that wrecked it

I have Barnett uprated springs, makes the clutch action slightly harder but doesn't slip. But then neither did the standard ones.

As a temporary fix, why not just stick in an additional steel plate?

But as I said, if you need one or a set of used plates let me know.
I believe that the baskets are ok as well, but haven't checked them so they might need a clean up with a file to remove all small notches.

[benny hedges]

may have to take you up on that tony!
seems it only does it when the engine's hot & when i proper welly it.

do you reckon the barnet bits are worth the dosh then?


oh & my carb springs finally arrived yesterday too, after nearly 2 mth lol! they'd forgot to order them didnt forget to bill me though!

[bazza696]

jonesy was talking about a slave for the cluth of another bike, like an R1 or something that would make the cluch operation easier, any suggestions?

[benny hedges]

im using a different clutch master cylinder atm and it feels loads better... think i'll check the return hole in the mc and change the fluid before i pull the side off (again!)

[bazza696]

Which one you using benny?

[benny hedges]

its a matching brake & clutch mc off my 750 cbx - looks nice, works great!
low level square ones instead of 2 different size round ones.
i'd say the fluid capacity is about the same as the oem mc.

the clutch was working fine, and if i dont welly it it's ok, just when i push it hard it slips a bit at 7k

[tony.mon]

Tried an oil change?

Stick some basic Semi Synth in, bike stuff obviously.
Fully Synth causes exactly what you're getting.

[benny hedges]

its on semi now tony.... the oil i mean
oil is about 500 miles old but the issue has only started happening the last week or so.