Basically I mod the cct case and the internals and this then takes the rotating part of the cct external. It can then adjust automatically (as it normally does) then it can be locked into position. Then say every 2k be unlocked and allowed to self adjust again. The good thing is the engine is off when you unlock it and then you can feel whether the spring has broken, so no broken engine, just a new cct. When it's locked-up the spring is now not moving at all, and I think it's the movement that causes them to break.
Since the internals are now external I observed the following facts. When the bike it ticking-over the tensioner loosens slightly and gradually. At about 4,000rpm the tensioner seems settled. (after checking they both are adjusting smoothly I will hold at 4k and then turn off and check they have not readjusted as I lock them up). Once the engine revs goes over about 6 to 7,000 rpm to the rev limiter the standard tensioners just get tighter and tighter and then once the revs dip the plunger if pushed back in slightly against the spring. I think the constant movement of the spring is just causing metal fatigue and then eventually it snaps. This also stands true as reading posts most of them have gone when coming off the throttle (which is when then tensioner is being pushed back in) from high revs.
There is no rachet at all in the cct's and a 97 one looks exactly the same as a 2003 one, every part. The spring is a rotating type too, like a clock spring and not a compression type.
Del.
CCT Cam Chain Tensioner Problem Fixed !!!!!
Del wrote:
So how much movement does a camchain need? How much allowance does it require for stretching? Couldn't the CCT have been designed so when installed it was manually adjusted up to and touching the chain, and then a conventional coil-type compression spring allows for any movement? Or why don't camchains have a sprung tensioner like they use on dirbikes for the drive chain?
C'mon now - this is hardly rocket science...
Anyway, Del - what do you reckon is best: to modify the Honda CCT, or replace it with a manual adjuster?
Sounds like the Honda CCT is a piece of crap design. Again. I bought my first Honda in 1974 (yeah, I'm an olde phart), and that had a sh1t camchain and tensioner. You'd think that after all these years of design and manufacture, Honda would be able to get it right.There is no rachet at all in the cct's and a 97 one looks exactly the same as a 2003 one, every part. The spring is a rotating type too, like a clock spring and not a compression type.
So how much movement does a camchain need? How much allowance does it require for stretching? Couldn't the CCT have been designed so when installed it was manually adjusted up to and touching the chain, and then a conventional coil-type compression spring allows for any movement? Or why don't camchains have a sprung tensioner like they use on dirbikes for the drive chain?
C'mon now - this is hardly rocket science...
Anyway, Del - what do you reckon is best: to modify the Honda CCT, or replace it with a manual adjuster?
- Ian in EnZed
(Red 97 FireStorm with Dynojet kit, APE camchain tensioners, bafflectomy+ploogs, UniFilter, GenMar risers, Avon Azaros, 90/130W headlight, digital clock/voltmeter), Braided s/steel lines.
(Red 97 FireStorm with Dynojet kit, APE camchain tensioners, bafflectomy+ploogs, UniFilter, GenMar risers, Avon Azaros, 90/130W headlight, digital clock/voltmeter), Braided s/steel lines.
Well. I originally purchased a set of manual adjusters but then decided to mod the standard one. The manual ones are just basically a nut and bolt and lock up the same as the modified std one, but you loose the auto tensioning to set them up and have to take valve covers off etc. I still have the manual (APE) ones in the packets, never even opened em. I looked a setting up the manual v's mine and the tension looked way hard to setup easily and often.
Del.
Del.
