Going to attempt Changing my CCT's to manuals!!

[tony.mon]

And watch out for the cam cover bolt seals dropping out, they sometimes stick to the cover and not the bolt.
It's easy to end up with two on one bolt and none on another.

They're marked with "UP".
Get them the wrong way round and they'll weep oil mist past them.

[VTRPiG]

Ok all done!! Phew! Followed all the steps bar 1!!! I was so engrossed and making sure that I did what every step said, I didn't notice that probably the most important step hadn't printed out .. d'ho! :S. The step telling how to lock the cct in place before removing it. Ended up calliing out a mobile mechanic and he sorted it in five minutes thankfully. ;) it took a little adjusting but all serene good. Went for a 30 mile ride and the rattle that was there before is no longer there..wooohoooo! It feels a little smoother to.

Although now that that noose is gone I can hear a hissing noise, which turns out is the exhaust link pipes. However installed the pipes has used general multi purpose pipe clamps you'd use on hoses or when plumbing!!!! Instead of exhaust pipe clamps to tighten the link pipes on. Any idea where I can get new exhaust clamps from?

Thank you all again for all your help and advice it has been greatly appreciated. Look forward to learning more from you all. :):):):):):)

[VTRDark]

The step telling how to lock the cct in place before removing it.

That's a for those who are doing the stop mod. If putting manuals in, as long as everything is at tdc the auto's can just be undone and taken straight out. Hope the the mechanic didn't charge too much Anyway sounds like if it was rattling you have caught it just in time and saved yourself a fortune. Glad it's all OK and you have peace of mind now. Well done.

Have a look on ebay for exhaust clamps, loads on there mate. You have cheap ones as well as slightly better quality more expensive ones. Just make sure you get the right size, I can't remember off the top of my head the size, but you could always wrap some string around the circumference of the pipe and measure that. Jubilee clips work OK though as a cheaper alternative.

(:-})

[Wicky]

Well done

For clamps try"

Mikalor Supra W2 Clamps are part stainless steel (band and clamp is fully stainless but the bolt is zinc coated)

Mikalor Supra W4 clamps are fully stainless (band, clamp and bolt are all fully stainless steel) and hence marine grade rated i.e will survive English salty winters.

Measure the diameter of the pipework (51-55 or 55-59) you want to connect as it can slightly different if you have a header connecting to standard OEM exhaust or aftermarket link pipes and cans.

[Jazzscot]

Well done mate, good to know you saved another storm from engine destruction

[tony.mon]

Another bike saved.

Well done that man!

[Pyro]

Hi

I did mine myself 5 weeks ago and it is really not that difficult. The worst part of the job was making the small locking pin that is described in the haynes manual. Go on give it a go with the tips on here

Theres no need to make a locking pin when converting to mccts, just wind out each of the 2 bolts evenly a little at a time when removing the old sprung cct and you wont have a problem.
its an easy job, the guides on here are great.

didnt read that post did ya VTRpig.. woulda saved ya a few quid if you did.

[VTRPiG]

Cheers guys, feeling much better with the bike now. So good to hear a rattle free engine while riding again..Woohoo! The bike mechanic only charge £30 for a couple of hours, so pretty good service.

Will check out eBay for clamps, thanks for the advice. Now the ne,t major thing to look at is the fan as it is still stuffed. Not really looked at it properly thanks to the bloody rain!! Will hopefully get a chance this week.

[tony.mon]

It's a simple circuit, so it'll either be the thermo switch, the fuse, the fan itself, or the wiring.
If as you report, you've applied 12v to the fan and it doesn't turn, there's your answer.
(I still have a spare one)

[sirch345]

Hi

I did mine myself 5 weeks ago and it is really not that difficult. The worst part of the job was making the small locking pin that is described in the haynes manual. Go on give it a go with the tips on here

Theres no need to make a locking pin when converting to mccts, just wind out each of the 2 bolts evenly a little at a time when removing the old sprung cct and you wont have a problem.
its an easy job, the guides on here are great.

didnt read that post did ya VTRpig.. woulda saved ya a few quid if you did.

That is very true and not absolutely necessary, but the idea of locking the CCT in position before removing it, is so you can measure the amount the plunger extrudes. You can then transfer that measurement onto the new manual CCT's before fitting to give you an approximate setting as a starting point. Doing that before fitting the new CCT's also gives you a better idea of where to apply the silicone sealer on the thread, or thread lock. You can then check the amount of deflection between the two cam wheels for fine tuning.

Well done VP on getting the job done

Chris.

[Pyro]

Im going to have to disagree Sirch, i would recommend starting with the mccts wound fully out, then bolt them in and wind them in by hand feeling for when they go tight- it would be very easy to stretch or break the cam chain if you tried to tighten the 2 fixing bolts on the cct with the tensioner wound too far in, keeping it out until the cct is bolted in place removes the chance of a fcukup. just my 2p.

[sirch345]

Pyro, it's your prerogative to disagree if that's how you feel but I think you've mis-read my post. I was only pointing out the merits of using a locking tool, which you dismissed earlier. I was not suggesting or trying to say one way was better than the other in my post.

In the past a few members have preferred using the locking key method, if that gives them more confidence to do the job then that's their choice IMHO.

I would like to think anyone who is putting tension on a cam chain when carrying out this modification (whether they're bolting up a preset manual CCT, or adjusting the tension bolt at the initial fitting stage) has the good sense to be keeping an eye on the cam chain tension as they go. That would avoid your suggestion of stretching or breaking the cam chain. If they're not up to that (watching the cam chain tension) I would question if they're really up to doing the job in the first place.


Chris.

[Xenocide]

For the sake of 20 mins, take off the cam covers. Not worth it IMO!

[tony.mon]

Well, you have to take off at least the rear one anyway, to be sure you have the correct tdc.
I've done enough of these now to be confident setting the first |(rear) one by hand, then checking tension with the cam cover off, then using the same tension feeling to set the front one. I then loosen the front one with the engine running after it's all back together to listen for the point at which it can just be heard tapping slightly, then adjusting it tighter until it can't be heard.
That seems to check out on the occasions that I've then taken off the front cam cover to check that deflection is right.