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Jester666: I forgot the spring, must be from cbr as well ...

How much did you take off the flywheel and what is the effect? I have an old cbr600 motor in my shed and I think the rotor may fit if I swop the sprag clutch over.The standard one looks a bit meaty hanging off the end of a skinny shaft.

i like it

do those fork braces make much difference ? ?

oldbikeman wrote:How much did you take off the flywheel and what is the effect? I have an old cbr600 motor in my shed and I think the rotor may fit if I swop the sprag clutch over.The standard one looks a bit meaty hanging off the end of a skinny shaft.

New diameter of steel rotor is 146 mm, and thickness 10.15 mm. I have no idea if CBR600 fit. Effect is that engine is more revvy, and front wheel goes up more times, no negatives from my side :-)

lumpyv wrote:i like it

do those fork braces make much difference ? ?

I believe yes, front is more stable, but it is hard to say.
I must say today that going with CBR954 front-end seems to be better idea than expensive reworking of these forks, but as I know me, I´d want to put racetech stuff into these upside down forks too, so at the end, it´s been even more pricey ... :-) Plus I like the original bar position, in spite of much people change it.

A very well sorted bike there Stephan

She looks good and is in the best colour too IMHO


Chris.

FactoryPro Ti needles, 180+182 main jets, 48 pilots

Out of curiosity can you remember what clip positions the needles are on and how many turns on the A/F screws.

I'm currently waiting for my kit to turn up, so doing some research on various settings and setups.

Putting my 6mm spacer in at the weekend so thanks for enlightening me to the sidestand issue.

(:-})

cybercarl: rear needle in the middle, front one slot up (to get needle lower), plus plugged one slide hole on front. A/F I don´t know, it was done by Idle Drop Procedure described in manual.

Thanks Stephen I understand the front needle being a slot up to lean it out a bit as the rear should run a bit richer to cool it down. But why the plugged slide hole with the two long stack's or are you referring to a third (dynojetted) hole.

Very interesting.

(:-})

cybercarl wrote:Thanks Stephen I understand the front needle being a slot up to lean it out a bit as the rear should run a bit richer to cool it down. But why the plugged slide hole with the two long stack's or are you referring to a third (dynojetted) hole.

Very interesting.

(:-})

Plugged front slide hole (not third dynojetted, but second oem) is per Roger´s D recommendation - to adjust front needle slide speed a bit and get smoother engine run - whether you have long stacks or not, doesn´t matter. For sure it is not applicable for carbs with dynojet kit mounted with different springs and added slide holes.

Hawk8541 on US forum recommends the same, and it seems to work well :-)

some new photos with new stuff ...

i like it alot . what are the wheels from ?

Bang tidy mate , very nice

very nice
what make are the lowers ?
cheers