VTR1000.ORG

That's pretty unfortunate for sure

If you're able to do the work yourself, it shouldn't be to expensive, still bl**dy annoying though

Chris.

Timbo wrote:Al,

I am sure you have seen this but just in case. Engine bits for sale, in case you need them.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13504

Tim

Cheers mate...just PM'd the seller

Al

Well i have took off the head tonight and the piston and valves are both fine ......broke the exhaust studs trying to get them out though.....got about 1/2" sticking out of the head so i'm praying i can get em out

Al

Wow!
What a pain in the A$$. Not the way you were planning to get to know the new bike I'll bet. At least you've only got a couple of snapped studs to contend with. There's a good cam timing proceedure in the workshop section for when you get to put it back together and a thred on how to lock of your tensioner so it can never happen again. Good luck with the reassembly. I'm sure you soon be out enjoying it again.

Pete.l

vtr..al wrote:Well i have took off the head tonight and the piston and valves are both fine ......broke the exhaust studs trying to get them out though.....got about 1/2" sticking out of the head so i'm praying i can get em out

Al

A little trick I've found often works is to drill a hole in a length (300mm or so of 25mm X 6mm) of mild steel at one end, so it will fit over the broken stud. Then preferably with an Arc welder weld the mild steel to the broken stud. The heat generated from the Arc weld helps in releasing the stud combined with the leverage now available from the now attached mild steel. Don't go mad with all that leverage, but using WD40 or similar try rocking the mild steel backwards and forwards, as in undoing and doing up the stud only a small amount, just enough to release the seized stud, then you can undo it as normal.

I'm not sure what procedure you used for checking the valves, but if you check the valve clearances, that should give a good indication of their condition, especially if the service history you have say's they were done at the 16,000 mile service as they should have been.

Chris.

Cheers for the helpful replies....another question i have is,what is the best method of removing the old gasket from the top of the barrel/bottom of head?

Al

Well tonight i have put a lot of heat on the studs and held them tightly in the vice and rocked the cylinder head backwards and forwards and managed to get out both the broken studs

Can't wait for the parts to arrive from david silvers now!!...ordered two new tensioners,head gasket,head bolts and two new exhaust studs....£110 all in.

Al

Fingers crossed for you.

But why did you need head bolts?

I've been through this a few times now, and always just re-used the bolts. No prob's with this, or leaks.

By the way, old bits of gasket can be remove with the tapered wooden bit of a wooden clothes peg, take it apart and you'll have two scrapers.

Scrape in line with the gasket, not across it.

I ordered new head bolts cos i didn't know when i was ordering the parts whether or not i needed them!!....i remember doing an head gasket on an XR3i and being told if it as an alloy head you need new bolts as they are stretch bolts and can't be torqued up more than once.

I have read on ere somewhere (bikerpiker i think) that you can reuse the head bolts....they were only a tenner for all 8 anyway :wink2

Got everthing ready to go back together now,just waiting for the parts to turn up!

Al