But that set me wondering- is it always the front one that goes?
So please let me know- there's a poll to make it easy.
Maybe if it's always just the front one then a manual front one would be enough?
CCT failure- front or rear?
CCT failure- front or rear?
Well I've had the CCT fail on my storm, and I'd changed the CCT's for new types a while ago.
But that set me wondering- is it always the front one that goes?
So please let me know- there's a poll to make it easy.
Maybe if it's always just the front one then a manual front one would be enough?
But that set me wondering- is it always the front one that goes?
So please let me know- there's a poll to make it easy.
Maybe if it's always just the front one then a manual front one would be enough?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Mmmmmmmmm. beginning to see a pattern here.... 
I asked because I believe that it's the lack of oil running uphill into the front CCT that causes condensation and rust to form which rots the spring.
I also think that (like I did this week), most people replace the pair once one fails, and IMHO you won't need to, just the front one.
The tip about lubing the front one regularly with a lubricant like TEFOIL seems a good idea, I was just going to squirt engine oil down the bolt hole....
Remember anything you put into the front CCT will run into the engine under gravity.
I asked because I believe that it's the lack of oil running uphill into the front CCT that causes condensation and rust to form which rots the spring.
I also think that (like I did this week), most people replace the pair once one fails, and IMHO you won't need to, just the front one.
The tip about lubing the front one regularly with a lubricant like TEFOIL seems a good idea, I was just going to squirt engine oil down the bolt hole....
Remember anything you put into the front CCT will run into the engine under gravity.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
-
bikerpiker
- Posts: 1823
- Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:59 pm
- Location: Ayrshire - Scotland .
Would WD40 or GT85 be ok to use then? Cos they is more squirtable than engine oil!tony.mon wrote:Mmmmmmmmm. beginning to see a pattern here....
The tip about lubing the front one regularly with a lubricant like TEFOIL seems a good idea, I was just going to squirt engine oil down the bolt hole....
Remember anything you put into the front CCT will run into the engine under gravity.
Seriously, how worried should i be about this more than common fault ? 
It is a little off putting and i wish i had of found the forum before purchasing a storm, is it always at the back of your mind when out riding ?
Do you get much of a heads up, as to whether your CCT 's are on the way out ?
My bike now has 32k on the clock, with no rattles etc, but i don't have any history to state if they have been done !
Sorry as i know this has probably been done to death by now, but having read through quite a bit of the forum, I'm now going to be bricking it every time I'm out on it !!
Opinion's on what you would do if you were me ?
Cheers in advance
Dave
It is a little off putting and i wish i had of found the forum before purchasing a storm, is it always at the back of your mind when out riding ?
Do you get much of a heads up, as to whether your CCT 's are on the way out ?
My bike now has 32k on the clock, with no rattles etc, but i don't have any history to state if they have been done !
Sorry as i know this has probably been done to death by now, but having read through quite a bit of the forum, I'm now going to be bricking it every time I'm out on it !!
Opinion's on what you would do if you were me ?
Cheers in advance
Dave
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13114&p=103847#p103847
1998 VTR1000 Castrol-ish (The CCT's have been changed to protect the innocent)
1986 YSR250 Project
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Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7234
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
Slot
you'll hear all sorts of different stories. Truth is, a few go with no warning what so ever and others can wrattle for months. Some last less than 5k and others go on for 40k and never miss a beat.
There are simple mods you can do to ensure you don't get caught out with a nasty. It does'nt have to ruin your riding experiance or rule the way you ride the bike.
Other bikes have the same problem, actually I can remember Honda suffering with cam tensioner problems back in the early eighties.
Just go out and enjoy it and if you can't get it out of your mind change the tensioners over to manual ones or modify the ones already in there.
Pete.l
you'll hear all sorts of different stories. Truth is, a few go with no warning what so ever and others can wrattle for months. Some last less than 5k and others go on for 40k and never miss a beat.
There are simple mods you can do to ensure you don't get caught out with a nasty. It does'nt have to ruin your riding experiance or rule the way you ride the bike.
Other bikes have the same problem, actually I can remember Honda suffering with cam tensioner problems back in the early eighties.
Just go out and enjoy it and if you can't get it out of your mind change the tensioners over to manual ones or modify the ones already in there.
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
I'm a bit sensitive on this issue, as I carefully changed/replaced the standard Honda CCT's afetr reading all about it on this forum.
So I thought that'll be it. 2 years and 15,000 miles later, the front one went- bent both ex valves on the front cylinder.
No warning, no rattle, driving off a roundabout in third, nothing to say it was going to happen, just a "grab the killswich as quick as possible" rattle and misfire. Over in seconds, but the damage was done.
But honestly, it's not too difficult a job to fix, and doesn't cost much. Two new valves and a head gasket should see you right, and a new CCT set, of course. Around £175 for the bits.
And it's easily do-able in a weekend- has to be a weekend because you can strip Fri night, Saturday rebuild and do the cam timing and still get to the dealer for the right size shims for the exhaust side of the affected cylinder.
Get all the rest rebuilt on Sunday and go down the pub in the evening.
You'll need to have metric feeler guages, gasket goo/silicon sealer, a micrometer or vernier to measure the shim thicknesses and a valve spring compressor to hand before you start.
Apart from that, a regular socket set and hex keys, screwdrivers, and the standard toolkit will do it.
Tips- for the front cylinder, in order to ensure that you don't trap the topmost/rearmost bit of the cyl head gasket when fitting, remove the carbs (only two screws on the inlet rubbers) and leave them hanging on the cables/carb heater pipes. They'll be out of the way enough to then remove the flattish plastic heat shield above the front cylinder.
That way you can see the back of the front cylinder head- it really does save time, as otherwise trying to hold the head in place when putting the bolts back is tricksy.
Lastly, while you have the heatshield off, fit a carb balancer pipe (don't forget to blank the end off) to the vacuum take off on the front cylinder- it's another nightmare to get to any other way.
So I thought that'll be it. 2 years and 15,000 miles later, the front one went- bent both ex valves on the front cylinder.
No warning, no rattle, driving off a roundabout in third, nothing to say it was going to happen, just a "grab the killswich as quick as possible" rattle and misfire. Over in seconds, but the damage was done.
But honestly, it's not too difficult a job to fix, and doesn't cost much. Two new valves and a head gasket should see you right, and a new CCT set, of course. Around £175 for the bits.
And it's easily do-able in a weekend- has to be a weekend because you can strip Fri night, Saturday rebuild and do the cam timing and still get to the dealer for the right size shims for the exhaust side of the affected cylinder.
Get all the rest rebuilt on Sunday and go down the pub in the evening.
You'll need to have metric feeler guages, gasket goo/silicon sealer, a micrometer or vernier to measure the shim thicknesses and a valve spring compressor to hand before you start.
Apart from that, a regular socket set and hex keys, screwdrivers, and the standard toolkit will do it.
Tips- for the front cylinder, in order to ensure that you don't trap the topmost/rearmost bit of the cyl head gasket when fitting, remove the carbs (only two screws on the inlet rubbers) and leave them hanging on the cables/carb heater pipes. They'll be out of the way enough to then remove the flattish plastic heat shield above the front cylinder.
That way you can see the back of the front cylinder head- it really does save time, as otherwise trying to hold the head in place when putting the bolts back is tricksy.
Lastly, while you have the heatshield off, fit a carb balancer pipe (don't forget to blank the end off) to the vacuum take off on the front cylinder- it's another nightmare to get to any other way.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
