2003 VTR resto

[Pvmoto]

G’day all,

I’ve had an ‘03 sitting in the shed for the past six years. I purchased it at a great price when I needed some cheap transport. It ran fine, apart from some coughing and spluttering when cold an inconsistent idle and a bit of clutch slip. Back then, I landed a job that provided—and continues to provide—a fresh supply of bikes to ride, so the VTR just sat there and hasn’t been started that whole time.

Anyway, about six months ago, I dragged it out and decided a project was in order. It’s been stripped to bits, and I’ve been building a stockpile of parts for it. The frame, subframe, and swingarm have recently returned from being coated with Cerakote, and I think they look very sexy.

My OCD absolutely won’t let me put a dirty, corroded engine back into the frame, so it’s being stripped down so the cases, etc., can be blasted and Cerakoted as well. Since that’s the case, I’m after some advice on what I should replace or add while it’s apart. I’m not chasing performance, per se, but with no service history to speak of, I just want to know the engine is solid. It has just under 30,000 kilometers on the clock, and apart from some carbon buildup, the top end looks great. I haven’t split the cases yet, but that should happen in the next few days.

I’ll replace all seals and gaskets, of course, and I already have a set of MCCT tensioners ready to go.

So, what else should I replace and/or upgrade while she’s apart?

[Pvmoto]

[tony.mon]

You should be fine with the engine on that km.
Clean the carbs thoroughly, and set the advance to as close as 500 as you can- there's a how-to in the workshop knowledge base.

Inconsistent idle- do you mean the odd carb cough when idling, where it almost stalls but then keeps running?
If so, that's normal. There are a few things to adjust to reduce it but it never really goes away.

Clutch slip is usually caused by a po running it on either car oil or fully synthetic. Clean the clutch plates and use semi synthetic.

The only other real clutch fault is failing to bleed the clutch line sufficiently; that results in poor disengagement.
The clutch on these is grabby as standard, so all you can do is to get used to it. There are possible fixes, but they're very expensive.

[freeridenick]

The frame and swingarm looks great in that steel colour.

Regarding the engine. If you're splitting the cases then you might as well replace the main and conrod bearings. New conrod bolts are needed for that. Might as well do the rings too and if you're high compression pistons would be a tempting upgrade.

With it not running for a while valve stem seals could be worth replacing while it's in bits. Also, check the gearbox input shaft, clutch basket bearing and clutch guide are in tolerance.

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[Pvmoto]

Thanks freeridenick. All good advice and i'll add those items to the shopping list. With the clutch having a bit of slip prior to the bike sitting, do you have any recommendations on clutch parts. I've read that Barnett clutch springs are the way to go but i'm wondering about the fibres and steels. OEM or Barnett?
The hi comp piston upgrade is very tempting indeed. I'll try and get a price from a supplier here in Australia and see how much financial hurt i'm in for.

[freeridenick]

Thanks freeridenick. All good advice and i'll add those items to the shopping list. With the clutch having a bit of slip prior to the bike sitting, do you have any recommendations on clutch parts. I've read that Barnett clutch springs are the way to go but i'm wondering about the fibres and steels. OEM or Barnett?
The hi comp piston upgrade is very tempting indeed. I'll try and get a price from a supplier here in Australia and see how much financial hurt i'm in for.

I don't know about Barnett. EBC do heavy duty clutch springs but it could just be the stock springs are out of tolerance. As Tony said; make sure the oil is semi synthetic. Also check the plates are in tolerance. Another tip I was told recently was to add a washer under the clutch spring bolts. Apparently S1000RR sump washers are perfect. Just one on alternative springs if you don't want a heavy clutch.

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[sirch345]

This project looks interesting, you have some nice bling parts ready to go I see

Chris.

[RodneyT]

Certainly looks nice with the Cerakote.

Regarding semi-synthetic, I have used fully synthetic oil (Penrite MC4ST 10W-40)in my track bike for the last 4 years without any slippage issues. Since the engine spends most of its time between 5K and 9K rpm on the track, I change the oil after every 2 meetings (approx 250km) and the filter at every 2nd oil change. I figure fresh oil is cheap insurance. The motor is standard; the only change is a 44T rear sprocket.
The original clutch got very grabby so about 2 years ago I put in a Goodridge clutch kit (fibre plates, steel plates and springs) and since then the clutch has been nice and smooth on take off - most importantly at the start of a race. Interestingly, the depth of the full clutch pack of the old plates was the same as the new pack so suspect the fibre plates had got glazed. Ive never had any hint of slippage.

[RodneyT]

BTW Pvmoto, whereabouts in Australia are you? I'm in Darwin

[shifty4371]

Hey fellas, shifty down here in Mackay Queensland if u care to keep in touch about the VTR'S as I'm about to start work on mine soon too.