Repairing my downpipes

[Metalmad18]

Hi guys

I mentioned on another thread about the exhaust blowing from under the seat towards my inner thigh. Basically it gets hot on your leg, (1997 black storm) uncomfortably hot. Stuck my hand in the gap (to explain it best its round about where you would put a rear hugger in if you had one) and sure enough i feel some blowing going on. obviously this gets hotter the longer the bike is running. The twin ported arrow exhausts I have on the bike are not getting as hot as I would have thought, which leads me to think that most of the heat is escaping from the join between the pipe coming from the rear manifold which links to the main exhaust section underneath. Hence the thighburn.

I have 2 options

Replace the whole thing for a set of stainless steel downpipes (costly)

or see if replacing the gasket between these two will work. (cheaper but seems like a lot of hassle for such a small job)

I don't how to go about doing it though as it is a bit of a new job for me. One recommendation was to take the whole of the rear of the bike off!! is this really necessary. I don't have anything to hang it from or support it with, so if there is another way this can be done or any advice on the agreed "best" or "proper" way to do it then I'm all ears.

It passed the MOT like it so it can't be that bad - or the garage missed it.

(sorry if this post is in the wrong place - I'm new here)

thanks

[MacV2]

Depending on how big your hands are... With bike on a padock stand...

Left exhaust can off, carefully undo the the header from the head, dont force it, use plenty of Plus gas or somesuch, infact soak the nuts for a couple of days... Undo the clamp on the header to downpipe...wiggle away.

I'm not saying this will work fully as you may not have room but it's worth trying as the alternative is to drop the whole system...

Dont forget you will need a new gasket for thew header & best replace the one for the can as well.

[VTRDark]

Before you go taking the exhaust system off please do a search on exhaust studs. These can snap very easily if rusty and seized in place. You could be opening up a whole new can of worms.

Do you have a fairing lower on the bike by any chance. These can increase the amount of heat transferred up to your legs considerably more so, especially in the hotter climate conditions we have had recently.

(:-})

[Metalmad18]

Yes I do but I've been riding with it off lately. This is air blowing from a specific area so it is definitely the downpipe connection.

If I can get away with doing it by just taking the exhaust and fairings off I will be much happier. I fit a new set of downpipes to my old cbr600fy and there were four of them buggers to line up and tighten with only a small amount of space so it might not be as bad with this.

I know what you are saying with the nuts too.

New clamp definitely (i've tightened this one as far as it will go and its not improving things that much)

No idea how to install a gasket seal - probably obviously simple but never had to do it with the other exhaust work I've done.

[VTRDark]

You could always spread some high temp silicone around the leaky join. This would save you stripping things down.

(:-})

[Pete.L]

Left exhaust can off, carefully undo the the header from the head, dont force it, use plenty of Plus gas or somesuch, infact soak the nuts for a couple of days... Undo the clamp on the header to downpipe...wiggle away.

I'm not saying this will work fully as you may not have room but it's worth trying as the alternative is to drop the whole system...

This way will work but it's a pig to do. It's really tight in there and you can only move the stud nuts a fraction of a turn at a time but it can be done. I didn't even remove the LH silencer I just did lots of wiggling to get the downpipe away from the two studs and then twisted 90 degree and lifted. Once the pipe is out there is plenty of room to get your hand in and scrape away any of the old gasket with a sharp object.
In hind site it would have been a lot easier to remove both silencers and then drop the rear end of the header pipes but I'm good at not doing things the easy way and giving myself hard work

Don't bother with High heat silicone, it will only last five minutes and start to come out. It's too hot and there is too much pressure that close to the heads.

Pete.l

[Metalmad18]

right so a gasket seal is first attempt.

Sounds stupid I know but what exactly do I have to do with the seal itself? should it just fit on there? Do I put it over the gap and put the clamp around it? Really am clueless and the internet and youtube haven't helped one bit.

Some stuff I'm pretty good with already but some little bits elude me.

apologies, I know its daft but the bike isnt with me right now so I can't even go out to have a look at it.

[MacV2]

The gasket slips over the 'Female' part...the 'Male' part then slips over the gasket.
Dont forget to put your new clamp on over the 'Male' pipe first very loose, when the two pipes are together then slide the clamp into place & tighten up.

The short header pipe fits into the main part of the pipe so that make the short header pipe that bolts to the rear head the 'Female' part...

Clear as mud...

[Wicky]

http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fich ... veh=132082

Cleanout the old graphite seal & use some wet&dry then ease the new seal into the header section, (a bit of copper grease to lube it in, and if necessary open up the collar with the cutouts - but ensure it's kept circular) Carefully insert rear down pipe (again copper grease) and as mentioned before get a W4 fully stainless Mikalor clamp to secure them tight. For the exhuast manifold/s use crushable copper gaskets.

right so a gasket seal is first attempt.

Sounds stupid I know but what exactly do I have to do with the seal itself? should it just fit on there? Do I put it over the gap and put the clamp around it? Really am clueless and the internet and youtube haven't helped one bit.

Some stuff I'm pretty good with already but some little bits elude me.

apologies, I know its daft but the bike isnt with me right now so I can't even go out to have a look at it.

[VTRDark]

Don't bother with High heat silicone, it will only last five minutes and start to come out. It's too hot and there is too much pressure that close to the heads.

Your right Pete I didn't realise we where talking about that bit. I thought we were talking about lower down.

There is a copper ring gasket that fits between the link pipe and the exhaust port. I do always apply a little silicone to this and around the pipe when installing. It does help with sealing things up and holding/sticking the copper gasket in place while one wiggles around the link pipe.

It is tight to remove it with everything in place but possible. 10mm combination spanner and mechanics fingers is all you need. The left side is easy, it the right that fiddly getting the spanner in around the shock and CCT. You could disconnect the engine earth strap on that side if it helps to get more access but I have never had the need. TBH if you have never had them off before and don't know the history then you want to be concerned about the exhaust studs, especially on the front if you go there. If they are bad and look/feel like they may snap, don't mess about and get a nut splitter and replace the nuts. As Mac says spray plenty of lube in there over a few days when hot and cold.

(:-})

[Metalmad18]

Cheers guys. that helps.

sounds fairly simple, just gotta make sure the little things are noticed. I'll get some clamps and a gasket seal asap.

Do I need to take the shorter pipe out the engine or can I leave it in and just drop the rest of the system off it? Guessing there wouldn't be enough clearance to do the job though.

Might fork out for the exhaust gaskets and manifolds just in case and have a link to ebay page with a new set of downpipes on it for when it all goes wrong. haha.

thanks again. In only a weekend of being on this page I'm learning so much.

[VTRDark]

Do I need to take the shorter pipe out the engine or can I leave it in and just drop the rest of the system off it? Guessing there wouldn't be enough clearance to do the job though.

You could but it's tight and it's harder to get back on fully and securely around the graphite gasket in the lower part of the link. TBH it's better to loosen the bolts at the exhaust port end so there is some freeplay to wiggle and push the pipes together at the other end.

Give it a go and see how you get on and if you feel you need to loosen the other end then deal with that at the time. I would still give everything a good soaking in lube beforehand though in preparation.

(:-})

[Metalmad18]

So if i get a gasket and clamp then an exhaust gasket and bolts for the engine port i should be ok?

Ill pick up some copper grease too. Which lube is best for this? Same with silicone too, which is better?

Seems like a convoluted job to stop a bit of air blowing bear the rear shock (maxton one btw, they any good? Came with it on)

So my plan is to loosen the down pipe at the rear exhaust port, undo the clamp at the first linkage (where the blowing is) and scape off any gunk and junk thats there. Slide on the clamp and gasket, fit together and tighten. And if needed replace gasket at the engine port and retighten the bolts if theyre still good.

Did i miss anything?

Any further comments? It all helps a noob.

Cheers

[VTRDark]

So if i get a gasket and clamp then an exhaust gasket and bolts for the engine port i should be ok?

No bolts up there. Stud and 10mm nuts. I would not attempt changing the exhaust studs. That could be opening up a whole new can of worms. Have you got a photo of the rear? how corroded is it down there? Just reuse the nuts you take off. Apply a little copper grease to the thread beforehand. It's defo worth replacing the exhaust clamps if they are corroded. You can get miklor W4 clamps for fully stainless. Apply a little copper grease to the thread beforehand.

Seems like a convoluted job to stop a bit of air blowing bear the rear shock (maxton one btw, they any good? Came with it on)

If you seal up any leaks in the exhaust system the bike will thank you for it and run smoother.

So my plan is to loosen the down pipe at the rear exhaust port, undo the clamp at the first linkage (where the blowing is)

If you can get access with a spanner or socket extension, you might be better off undoing the lower art first. At least loosen it while there is no movement from loosening the top nuts.

(:-})

[Metalmad18]

pics of the area. some of the exhaust port area and the others are the problem area/where i think the air is blowing from. hopefully this will give a better idea of the issue and the best way to solve it.

Engine port (rear)





Downpipe link








cheers