Regulator power drain

Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:50 pm

I am having charging system issues, and after running down the list on cybercarls post, i have isolated a drain on the odometer fuse,however that is not my question. When testing the battery drain with a multimeter between the positive cable and battery, when the regulator is plugged back in to the five prong white plug, my meter shows almost 13v draw, with key off! This bike has been eating batteries and basically u reliable for almost 4 years now. This is a supposedly new regulator off ebay, but it was larger and did not mount through both holes, only one. Help?!

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macdee · Post by **macdee** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:23 pm

The most common fault for the death of a battery is the reg
i think you need to try a proven reg
The wires are connected to the battery so you will get volts even when the bike switched off
check voltages when the bike is running and then when Off
over voltage is what kills the batterys

Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:38 pm

Any reccomendations on where to buy a decent one? Usa here

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tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:43 pm

Think of it this way. The regulator part is permanently connected to the battery- it isn't switched like the lights and ignition via the keyswitch.
Because it's permanently connected, any time you have volts "in" the battery over the setting it has inside it will try to convert them to heat.

But as soon as the voltage in the battery drops to less than what it's set to, it stops converting it to heat.

So once the voltage drops to a level where it isn't any longer converting it to heat, the voltage shouldn't drop any more- if it does, something is draining it away.
Take out all fuses and test again. If no voltage drop, then plug stuff in one fuse at a time until you isolate which one is still burning current when the ignition is off.

Anything you've added, like USB sockets, voltage meters, gear indicators etc should always be connected via a relay taking a signal from a switched live from the keyswitch- that way they always turn off when you take the key out.

I have a similar problem, voltage leaches away after a few days.
I have a high current battery isolator (a few pounds from Halfords) that I plan to fit on the earth side main battery lead, but will have to connect all accessory earths after the isolator otherwise whatever's draining current will try to use the accessory earth instead.

macdee · Post by **macdee** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 10:53 pm

Look up workshop knowledge their a few threads on the reg
a mosfet reg is the best option most people get them off an yamaha r1
I will copy an paste threads later cant seem to do it from here
again check the voltages see if its high volts or is it that the batterys are going flat and then being left uncharged
which also does then no good

Post by **firestorm_al** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 11:16 pm

Pistonguy wrote:Any reccomendations on where to buy a decent one? Usa here

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I'm in the UK and this is the kit I bought for my Monster & Falco - http://roadstercycle.com/

Before you change anything I would do a resistance check of the stator (the yellow wires on the R/R plug). Check the resistance between all combinations of the yellow wires and the resistance should be low and similar for all combinations of yellow wires. Also check from each yellow wire to the chassis (0V) - All of these should be open circuit.

Al.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 11:18 pm

Pistonguy wrote:Any reccomendations on where to buy a decent one? Usa here

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http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 82#p351482

http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... how-25117/

Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:07 am

So i did check those yellow wires and they all have non continuity. Bike was fully charged, so i just went out and fired it up and at 2k-5k revs i was reading less that 13v and STEADILY dropping just as the bike was idling. Could this be because i pulled the cluster fuse, or means that my stator is bad?

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Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 1:18 am

Any point in pulling off the stator cover and taking a look in there?

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Post by **firestorm_al** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:19 am

Pistonguy wrote:So i did check those yellow wires and they all have non continuity. Bike was fully charged, so i just went out and fired it up and at 2k-5k revs i was reading less that 13v and STEADILY dropping just as the bike was idling. Could this be because i pulled the cluster fuse, or means that my stator is bad?

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To me that soulds like your bike was only running off the battery and nothing coming from the charging system I'm afraid.

When you say that the yellow wires all have non continuity, that is good from each of the wires individually to the bike 0V but bad if that was the measurement between the yellow wires.

Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:18 pm

I agree! Stupid regulator is brand new and went bad just sitting. I have not changed oil in a while. Probably right around 3500 miles but that has been over 5 year span. IF all reading at stator plugs were as expected could it still be bad from being dirty? If i cant figure this out myself i will be sending it to the local honda factory dealer.:-/

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Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:44 pm

I just rechecked the stator and all wires are showing
1.2 ohms. Just must have bought an already shot regulator new off ebay..

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rollingthunderx2 · Post by **rollingthunderx2** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 2:53 pm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Regulator-Rec ... 19f89adb2b

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:27 pm

Don't faff about lay out some wedge & buy a Mosfet version R/R...

Plenty out there just check the part number...anything with a part number starting SH...avoid

A Mosfet one will have a part number starting with FH & will have two plugs. You can either get the correct block connectors or un pick the original crimped wires from the original block & just fit them straight on...unless the wiring is burnt...Then you will have to trim back & re crimp...

Pistonguy · Post by **Pistonguy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:58 pm

I see only one bolt not an issue huh? Rode the bike around a bit today popping around town and didnt shut it off. Brought the multimeter with me and even at 5-6k im still only seeing about 12.5-13 at the battery and slowly draining. Wouldnt that mean its the stator? I had assumed that if the regulator went bad it would overcharge and cook the battery? Also i am USA here so any UK dealers that would ship to me would be helpful as well, the only place ive got to get decent parts is the honda dealer an hour away. No more ebay cheap parts for me

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