Webcam camshaft specs. do i need aftermarket springs?

[Jscobey]

finally got these puppies in the mail thanks to a great member across the pond. got in touch with WEBCAM and they are a custom grind that isnt listed on their site. they sent me over the timing card. what i am wondering is if i need aftermarket valve springs as they seem pretty on par with Mori STG1 cams which i know are good to go with the stock springs. heres the specs

and for comparison here is the Moriwaki stg1 specs courtesy of tony's post
MORIWAKI:
IN::BTDC 22/ABDC 53/10.3/105.5 (255 deg. duration)
Ex::BBDC 53/ATDC 16/10.1/108.5 (249 deg. duration)



and for those of you without a conversion chart handy, the lift on both intake and exhaust cams is .405 inches so thats 10.287 mm. so about the same lift on the intake side as the moris and a little more lift on the exhaust side.

[Jscobey]

No opinions?

[VTRDark]

Mmmm don't know. Your right to question it. I would ask Webcam and see what they have to say. If standard springs are OK then measure them and make sure they are within spec first as they do wear and loose their tension/springyness over time. The specs are in the manual.

(:-})

[Jscobey]

i asked the girl on the phone at webcams and she said she wasnt sure because her records didnt show it. all she had was that timing card on file.

now these cams were involved in a CCT failure, and i have the valve springs that were in the other motor with these cams. they are goldish in color so i KNOW they are aftermarket springs, i assume from webcam, because the stock springs are a raw metal color. but the cct failure broke 2 of the smaller inner valve springs. anyways considering the similar specs to mori stg 1's im wondering if i can get away with using stock springs.

these are going in the track bike and i literally JUST finished the JE piston install on it, so id really love to avoid pulling the heads again to swap springs if i dont have to. id also love to avoid spending more money if i dont have to.

its mostly the lift which facilitates the need for higher spec springs and these arnt that much more lift over stock and about the same as mori's so my guess is that stock springs are good based on the research ive done. BUT you never know. ive sent Roger D. an email and will see what he has to say about it. id rather play it safe than sorry and just put new springs in, but if theres no need to than id rather not go through all the trouble and money.

[Jscobey]

ive talked to Roger and he assured me there is no need for aftermarket springs in my case. for anyone who is wondering in the future, Roger said that its not really until you get to 11.0 mm of lift that you need springs.

so good news for me in that these cams shall be going in today

[mik_str]

Those specs are very similar to the Yoshimura Stage 1 cams (including identical ramp profiles for both; Yosh are 250 degree duration and 10.7mm lift IIRC). The only thing I wonder about is that the Mori and Yosh timing specs are measured at 0.040 lift (IIRC) whereas these are at 0.050 (seems to be the norm for US-based cam mfrs).... Either way, should make for a nice boost in power for you.... enjoy!

[VTRDark]

The only thing I wonder about is that the Mori and Yosh timing specs are measured at 0.040 lift (IIRC) whereas these are at 0.050 (seems to be the norm for US-based cam mfrs)...

Yeh that confuses things. The 50 degrees was chosen as an unofficial standardized point of reference to measure from. Advertised duration is meaningless and not worth the space it's written on.

(:-})

[Jscobey]

Those specs are very similar to the Yoshimura Stage 1 cams (including identical ramp profiles for both; Yosh are 250 degree duration and 10.7mm lift IIRC). The only thing I wonder about is that the Mori and Yosh timing specs are measured at 0.040 lift (IIRC) whereas these are at 0.050 (seems to be the norm for US-based cam mfrs).... Either way, should make for a nice boost in power for you.... enjoy!

i noticed that. i also saw that for automotive cams in the US alot of them are measured at 0.060 lift. its just a way to measure "actual" duration because the cam spend quite a few degrees (in my case 38* of crank rotation) at under 0.050 lift

just finished the install and adjusted lash to exactley what the timing card says (which is just the middle of the regular valve spec) about to hop on and take her for a ride

[lloydie]

Well how did it go ?
And when you getting it on the Dyno ?