Head light relay kit

[lloydie]

That must be where I go wrong , zap zap aarrrrr lol

[Ckennedy]

i dont know im no sparky

Well... I am... sort of... I try to avoid sparks though... Despite the fun, they tend to result in more fixing...

I know all about sparks and more fixing I have the 13mm spanner to prove it

[VTRDark]

This thread is shocking. IIRC the Storm uses 10a for the lights as standard.

V x A = W

Now that is handy to know. I never knew that.

Not sure if these are any good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Car-H4-T ... 5d43ae0749

(:-})

[Tweety]

So, say you want to run a 100-120W H4 bulb... Which technically is illegal, but it works very well for giving you a lot of light, in the right places, and is available for "rally use"... (Just don't ride with the high beam on when it's 30c in the middle of the night for long periods, it cooks the plastics...)

Then you'd use a 10A fuse, and I'd suggest 12-14 AWG wire, preferably so called "battery wire" since it's easy to bend, where as normal "automotive wire" or whatever is a right PITA to work with once it's goes above the tiniest thickness imaginable... I also suggest simply cutting the old H4 plug off, since it's completely unsealed, and just causes problems, and permanently joining the wires, or if you prefer, use a 3 pole sealed connector instead, then you can split the harness for easy strip down...

All joins should be soldered, the crimps preferably should be without the useless plastic isolation sleeves, and the joins and crimps then sealed with heat shrink, not tape... Preferably the type containing hot glue, but not necessary... This keeps the nasty corrosion out, saving you electrical problems later...

Since you are probably crimping on larger ring connectors at the battery end, and those pretty commonly to cause corrosion, I'd suggest soldering over the crimps to seal the end of the wire, and then using heat shrink...

[Salty Dog]

10A Fuse
10A Relay
You can also buy a single "interlocked" relay to simplify your task.
It only needs 1 positive feed.

You can upgrade it all to 20A or 30A, but the relays get physically larger.
The main reason for a 30A fuse is because you've run a heavier gauge cable, thus less volt drop between the battery and lamp terminals.
The fuse is only there to protect the wiring, not the load or accessory.

No. 1 and only rule with wiring "Keep the Smoke inside the Wire"

[Tweety]

This thread is shocking. IIRC the Storm uses 10a for the lights as standard.

V x A = W

Now that is handy to know. I never knew that.

Not sure if these are any good.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Car-H4-T ... 5d43ae0749

(:-})

Unsealed connectors, unsealed crimps... A right PITA for corrosion... Cheapest possible plastic H4 connectors... They will not survive a 100W H4 bulb for very long... Cheapest possible relays...

Basically, you can build a better kit yourself for less money... But if you aren't used to electrics, it could be used as a starting point, to "fix" before using I guess...

(Yeah, I'm a bit anal... I design electronics that go into guidance systems for air planes parking at a gate on airports... Basically, the standard is that anything less than a full on collision with a big Boeing/Airbus, and the system should keep operating...From Indonesia, which is hot and bloody humid, to Norway where the northern most airports have near Arctic conditions... )

[Tweety]

10A Fuse
10A Relay
You can also buy a single "interlocked" relay to simplify your task.
It only needs 1 positive feed.

Actually, I'd recommend a relay rated at 20A, since they are notorious for failing under continuous currents close to their rating unless they are bloody expensive... And 20A relays aren't much more expensive than 10A one's...

Plus a length of large shrink tubing, to seal around the relay and connector, since they are otherwise rather open to corrosion...

[Tweety]

10A Fuse
10A Relay
You can also buy a single "interlocked" relay to simplify your task.
It only needs 1 positive feed.

You can upgrade it all to 20A or 30A, but the relays get physically larger.
The main reason for a 30A fuse is because you've run a heavier gauge cable, thus less volt drop between the battery and lamp terminals.
The is only there to protect the wiring, not the load.

No. 1 and only rule with wiring "Keep the Smoke inside the Wire"

Um... yeah... and how do you propose to follow rule no.1 with a 30A fuse?! To have that fuse blow using 12 AWG wiring, is nearly physically impossible... The wire in itself burns before the fuse 9 times out of 10... 20A, possibly... But anything above 15A is basically dangerous...

And no, a 30A fuse instead of a 10A fuse will not produce a measurable lower voltage drop... Yeah, the fuse is to protect the wiring, because by doing that, it protects the user... So, putting a ridiculously large fuse in a circuit is outright wrong and dangerous...

[Salty Dog]

Double Post

[Salty Dog]

I think you missed the point
Read my post again. The bit where it says "you can upgrade it ALL"
You use a larger rated fuse because you've run a heavy gauge cable (I never mention what size) .... I would take it most people understood youd be running the appropriate size cable for the given protection device.

Hence, 30A fuse (40A cable @ 12V)

Agreed it is overkill and will produce little visual improvement in light output
Even if you ran heavier cable, a 10A fuse would still be fine.
The main principle is providing as little volt drop as possible .... Hence the larger cable...

Its just someone mentioned 30A...

Not quite sure where get "the fuse protects the user".....
When your bike is in the garage and you in bed sleeping... something shorts, fuse blows.
Its pretty much been there to protect the integrity of the wiring for as long as I can remember :-)

[bazza696]

It will not make a lot of difference as I am running the eastern beaver kit with a standard 55w bulb and I have been told my brother that my headlight is blinding and the flashes from on coming traffic confirms this, running with a 100w will be obscene.

[ging500]

It will not make a lot of difference as I am running the eastern beaver kit with a standard 55w bulb and I have been told my brother that my headlight is blinding and the flashes from on coming traffic confirms this, running with a 100w will be obscene.

Sometimes I shut my eyes and I can still the firestorm headlight. Anymore than 55 w you would take car paint off and melt bumpers.

[tony.mon]

In my untrained opinion, (I can't even park a car reliably...) anything more than enough in terms of wiring and fuse rating isn't needed, therefore you're just adding weight.
Before you tell me that the difference is just a gram or two, try lifting the standard wiring harness.
The other thing to mention is to shield the relays form the elements- they're normally designed to live in a car dashboard, or at worst, under the bonnet.

On another tack, I was going to fit a single connector to connect and disconnect the sidelamp and front indicators in one plug- much simpler when taking the fairing on and off...again a common ground will mean easier connections.

Especially with aftermarket indicators, the wires are often a bit short ( no pun intended) and make connecting them at the front of the fairing a PITA.

[VTRDark]

and the flashes from on coming traffic confirms this

I have standard bulbs and wiring and get flashed by drivers. Maybe they flashing other drivers to say it's clear and they can pull out in front of me. You would get it even more so if you had twin headlights as they think you have a bulb out.

(:-})

[Diabolus]

ive just purchased a motomorini bi-xenon hid projector kit today after weeks of research into HID's ect.. if that beaver kit is the one griffs got, yes you will see much better but every one else will be blinded! HID Projector, retro fitted is the way to go. It will require baking the headlight for 4min at 200c to split the lense from the housing so it could go horribly wrong! I will post a how to if all goes well.