timing

[VTRDark]

Your probably right that is a bit harsh. I must admit Haynes are useful for the wiring diagrams and specifications. I have not flicked through the Firstorm Haynes so I don't know what is incorrect in them regarding timing so just going by what I have heard from others experiences with it.

I have not picked up a Haynes since they changed the page format/layouts, iirc back in the late 80s early 90's they went down hill after that and even more consumer based than they where already.

(:-})

[Kev L]

It's a bit late for that Maybe he can do a no win no fee on Mr Haynes. It just surprises me that Scotty jumped straight in with the Haynes and did not check on here first. I've lost track of how many times in various posts myself and others have told people not to use it and follow the instructions on here. I would just burn the whole Haynes, it's not needed and the PDF manual and advice on here has everything that one wants.

(:-})

Perhaps a tad harsh? I changed mine for manuals using Haynes - it isn't completely clear but ut isn't actually wrong either - I did them in about 2006, before Chris had published his excellent (and better) step by step guide. Haynes has been really useful in so many other ways since I bought it and is handy to have everthing together if you just need to check a torque setting etc.

+1 Haynes is very useful as an alternative view, and for a quick search.

[scottyhatchi]

I didn't turn to haynes before turning to you lot on here as yes was a long time ago but when my ccts collapsed I bent all the front valves I seeked help from u all then to do the timing I remember from then thaty the method you all give for timing is the same as the haynes manual
Turn to mark rt then check r1 and re are on rear cams facing away from each otha with cams facing upwards and inwards then turn crank to ft then a full 360 to ft again then check front head is at f1 and ft and the cams are facing upwards and outwards . I have done it correctly as far as I can see but 1 thing I do notice is the rear head is very easy to line up the marks are dead inline with the top of the case but the front is a little below or a little above the case line I can't get it dead on as I move it 1 tooth and that's the diffrence between above and below its only ever so slightly not in line but clearly summin is going wrong with setting it up

[Wicky]

I didn't turn to haynes before turning to you lot on here as yes was a long time ago but when my ccts collapsed I bent all the front valves I seeked help from u all then to do the timing I remember from then thaty the method you all give for timing is the same as the haynes manual
Turn to mark rt then check r1 and re are on rear cams facing away from each otha with cams facing upwards and inwards then turn crank to ft then a full 360 to ft again then check front head is at f1 and ft and the cams are facing upwards and outwards . I have done it correctly as far as I can see but 1 thing I do notice is the rear head is very easy to line up the marks are dead inline with the top of the case but the front is a little below or a little above the case line I can't get it dead on as I move it 1 tooth and that's the diffrence between above and below its only ever so slightly not in line but clearly summin is going wrong with setting it up

"...anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns)..."

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

[VTRDark]

Finally you have described exactly what you have done.

When setting the timing from the rear to the front (Moving from RT to FT) turn 1 1/4 anti-clockwise. You will see the FT mark come around once, but it's not 1 1/4 turns yet so keep going until it comes around for the second time. You should now be on the compression stroke at TDC. You have probably stopped the first time it came around.

It is a little tricky getting it to line up spot on, this is why it's better to remove the spark plugs. You should see the FT coming around so stop just before the line and that point where it snaps passed TDC. You can then lightly tap it around to that point. If it does snap past under the compression then start again. Check the rear cam position so you on the compression stroke and turn 1 1/4 turns again or remove the front cam cover and check the cam there, it's up to you. Personally I think is easier if you remove the front cam cover. You can then see directly which way the Cams are pointing without having to worry about the rear.

(:-})

[leevtr]

I didn't turn to haynes before turning to you lot on here as yes was a long time ago but when my ccts collapsed I bent all the front valves I seeked help from u all then to do the timing I remember from then thaty the method you all give for timing is the same as the haynes manual
Turn to mark rt then check r1 and re are on rear cams facing away from each otha with cams facing upwards and inwards then turn crank to ft then a full 360 to ft again then check front head is at f1 and ft and the cams are facing upwards and outwards . I have done it correctly as far as I can see but 1 thing I do notice is the rear head is very easy to line up the marks are dead inline with the top of the case but the front is a little below or a little above the case line I can't get it dead on as I move it 1 tooth and that's the diffrence between above and below its only ever so slightly not in line but clearly summin is going wrong with setting it up

"...anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns)..."

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

Anti-Clockwise is the other way from what the clock goes, just in case you're head scratching !!

[tony.mon]

I didn't turn to haynes before turning to you lot on here as yes was a long time ago but when my ccts collapsed I bent all the front valves I seeked help from u all then to do the timing I remember from then thaty the method you all give for timing is the same as the haynes manual
Turn to mark rt then check r1 and re are on rear cams facing away from each otha with cams facing upwards and inwards then turn crank to ft then a full 360 to ft again then check front head is at f1 and ft and the cams are facing upwards and outwards . I have done it correctly as far as I can see but 1 thing I do notice is the rear head is very easy to line up the marks are dead inline with the top of the case but the front is a little below or a little above the case line I can't get it dead on as I move it 1 tooth and that's the diffrence between above and below its only ever so slightly not in line but clearly summin is going wrong with setting it up

"...anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns)..."

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

Anti-Clockwise is the other way from what the clock goes, just in case you're head scratching !!

Head scratching is where you use your finger nails and scrape them against the skin on your head, it's a sort of puzzlement indicator!!

[leevtr]

[andre5030]

Think I did the same, think i might of forgotten to turn it the 1 1/4 turn to get the ft mark cause I fitted new ccts yesterday and it was a bugger to start and then kept dying again, no matter how the ccts were adjusted. Not to mention a bit of bad luck I had when tightening the cam cover bolts.

Can only get working on it at weekends so bit of hassle for next week.

[leevtr]

Think I did the same, think i might of forgotten to turn it the 1 1/4 turn to get the ft mark cause I fitted new ccts yesterday and it was a bugger to start and then kept dying again, no matter how the ccts were adjusted. Not to mention a bit of bad luck I had when tightening the cam cover bolts.

Can only get working on it at weekends so bit of hassle for next week.

Have you connected the hoses to the fuel tap in the right place......common error, same symptoms.

[andre5030]

Think so anyway, the hoses are all different sizes except for the to big ones, if they were on the opposite sides to where they should be would it cause that? I was thinking maybe dirt in the fuel from turning the tank around when I had it off.

I broke a cam cover bolt too and tried to drill it out of the top of the head... the hole didnt exactly end up the best and when I ran a tap in it kept throwing out wrong angle then.

Prob gonna try drill it out to bigger size, hope I can get the angle right then tap and put in an insert to original 6mm size again. Cam cover bolts ordered from fleabay. Think I can call my weekends work a proper botch.

[VTRDark]

It's the vacuum hose to the right it goes just behind the fuel line not on the stub at the bottom of the tap. This is what you need to check.



Bummer about the cam cover bolt.You need to go easy on them as they can snap easily.

(:-})

[andre5030]

Wont get a chance to look at it again till next weekend but will double check the hoses.

Im worried im gonna ruin the head drilling out this new hole will end up way off in angle but no other choice, will just have to take it slow and hope and pray.

[Wicky]

Make absolutely sure no swarf goes astray into the engine

[andre5030]

Had a rag over the head yesterday and the drill bit broke next thing I had this lump of cloth flying round in my face, not good lol.