VTR Manual Cam Chain Tensioners (searches read)

[vardypeeps]

Hi guys

Fitted a manual cam chain tensioner on my VTR today.
The bike had started it tick and slap when the revs dropped past 2000 and I could tell it was time to get this covered after owning the bike for 6 months.

I'm worried I have done the tensioner on the front too tight..
Tightened it up with finger until I felt it catch the guide then tightened, finger tight around 1 1/4 turns and it felt like it was putting too much pressure on the chain so backed it out around half a turn.
The ticking and everything has gone and the engine picks up fine and seems less vibey but should I fire it up and back it out on idle until it starts ticking again then tighten till it stops or just not worry lol?

Didn't think to check the tension of the chain while the front cam/valve cover was off so my bad but words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Thank you
Rob

[VTRDark]

Before starting the bike turn it over by hand first from the flywheel just to make sure it's timed OK and valves don't touch the pistons. This is just a precaution and also you should feel if it is overtightened. Ideally you should have done the tension while the camcover was off but hey ho, lesson learned. When you do start the bike if you get any screeching noises or it is hard to start then stop, as the chain is too tight. You will then have to back it off a bit, maybe a 1/4 turn out.

Once the bike is up and running make sure you have a spanner/socket or whatever holding the bolt on the end while you loosen off the locking nut. You don't want it running away with you and un-doing itself fast from the motor running. You can then back it out slowly until you get the ticking/rattle sound and gently wind it back in until it stops. Then back it out a 1/4 turn to allow for the cold engine. It will obviously tighten more as things heat up to running temp.

Other than that, take the cam cover back off and measure the slack from the centre of the chain between the two cam sprockets. You should have 7-8mm play. Did you remember to put some threadlock or gasket seal on the thread before tightening up the tensioner. This stops any slight oil leaks that may creep along the thread and also acts as a brake (stops it unwinding fast) in case the locking bolt becomes loose from vibrations.

(:-})

[vardypeeps]

Yeah lesson learned when I backed off the Honda tensioner and then cranked the engine manually making it instantly jump 3-4 teeth due to no tension. D'oh

On the plus side I did crank the engine over manually after resetting the cams to check for free movement and there was no squeal or difficult starting when everything was back together.

I'm going to recheck the positioning of the new tensioner to be sure and then pop some thread lock on once done.

Thank you very much for the tips and I love my VTR!

[Kev L]

Well done on taking it on and getting it sorted mate.

[alternative_vtr]

I would say you probably have the tension about right from what you said. I took a lot of advice from this forum when I did mine as it was a bit of a scary job - if it was not timed correctly. Finger tight and back off a bit was basically what I did, probably about half a turn from tight, I did that on back and front and checked the chain tension and the chain was perfect at that on the back cam chain so I did the same with the front.

[VTRDark]

Well done on taking it on and getting it sorted mate

+1

The whole finger tight method is a little (I can't think of the word right now!) but not un-reliable, mis-leading or hit and miss but along those lines. Basically everyone's judgement of finger tight will be different, and unless one has experience with this and has a good sense of feel it's not easy to get right. It's not as if it's an obvious tightness, as it's a very subtle feel when the tensioner starts to put some tension on the chain.
When people are doing their tensioners for the first time I would normally advice to remove the front cam cover and measure the slack in the chain. It's better to be safe than sorry and for the sake of an extra 30mins to remove the fairing, carbs, cam cover etc. It seems silly not to. Then not only can the front timing be double checked (cam positions) also the tension should be spot on.

Another method is, when doing the rear tensioner. tighten it all the way in as tight as it will go, then back it off, while counting the turns, until the tension is spot on. Rear cover should be off so this is easy. This can then then be applied to the front cylinder. The only problem with this is that it does not account for different wear rates between the rear and front cylinders, so this is close but not necessarily spot on.

and then cranked the engine manually making it instantly jump 3-4 teeth due to no tension. D'oh

Considering this, I think you should definitely remove the front cam cover again and check the timing. You can then get your tension spot on before putting the cover back on.

(:-})

[rollingthunderx2]

Slightly off-topic, but my old XT 500 had a screw and locknut tensioner, you tightened the tensioner so there was just a little movement seen on a little plunger in the centre of the bolt, then tightened the locknut and replaced a plastic cover over the bolt.
These used to crack and leak oil.

You can see the central plunger moving here.

Noise alert for video!

[RiderOfTheStorm]

Hi Rob,

Where did you get the tensioner from please?

I see so many on ebay and the web. Is there one that's recommended?

Regards Steve.

[Wicky]

Links to various types of manual CCTs in this thread

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 16&t=22720

[RiderOfTheStorm]

Neat

Thanks for the reply.

I'll take a look now.

Steve.

[RiderOfTheStorm]

Ordered a CCT ...Will see if it sorts the problem.Thanks Guys.