Slow Starting Problem

[bethanysdaddy]

My VTR has recently had the valve clearances checked and adjusted by a reputable shop near to me. Since then, the bike has been very lethargic in starting. The starter motor seems as if it is struggling to turn the motor over but does eventually fire into life and has not left me stranded (yet). I have tried another battery but to no avail. Once started the bike runs great and doesnt miss a beat.

I have also recently (about a month before valve clearances) fitted manual CCT's. Adjusting the rear one by checking the free play in between the sprockets and the front one by turning the adjuster in finger tight and backing off half a turn.

The battery voltage drops from 12.7V to 9V while struggling to start.

The bike doesnt turn over an over before it starts, it just turns over very slowly then starts.

Is it engine related or starter motor related? Anyone had the same?

[VTRDark]

Seems strange that it's happened since the valve clearances, unless they have set the clearances too tight. What was it like after putting manual CCT's in. If these are over tightened they could cause the bike to turn over slowly on starting.

(:-})

[bethanysdaddy]

The bike started fine after fitting CCT's. I know, it does sound strange? It has only been a problem since valve clearances were changed.

[Wicky]

Are the manual CCTs set a bit too tight? Any screeching noise when running?

Also what's the condition of the starter motor bolt under the rubber hood, where the lead connects, as if it that gets corroded then starting efficiency can deteriorate.

[VTRDark]

I would rule out the starter motor by checking all the connections, also make sure the battery leads are nice and tight. If the starter is all looking good then I would take it back to the garage and query it with them. Sounds to me like they have overtightened the valves. I wonder if they loosened of the CCT's for some reason and tightened them up too tight. They shouldn't need to, to check clearances unless I think they have added/removed shims. What's the mileage on your bike? It's very rarely that the clearances need adjusting.

(:-})

[bethanysdaddy]

My bike has done 23k. It defiantley did need 4 new shims. It was very noisey at the top end before they were done (its now very quiet). The guy at the shop told me he had to fit the largest shim available on one of my exhaust valves. I did wonder if they had to disturb the CCT's when they replaced the shims. I am annoyed because I was going to do it myself but didnt have the time and needed the bike.

[Stratman]

They may have fiddled with the CCTs then. Why not try starting her up, then backing the CCTs out slowly till the camchain slaps a bit, then tighten up slightly. Do this on both CCTs then see if that makes a difference?

[bethanysdaddy]

Just had a look and starter connections look fine. There is no screech or noises when starting, which would indicate tight CCT's. I might just have to re-adjust the CCT's tomorrow after work and that might cure it. (Fingers Crossed and all that!)

[bethanysdaddy]

I will try that Stratman, thank you. Good tip. Bloody bike shops. should have done it myself!!! LoL!

[bethanysdaddy]

Thank you for all of your help people, stand by for results tomorrow night!

[VTRDark]

There is no screech or noises when starting, which would indicate tight CCT's.

They could still be a little tight. Screeching would occur if really overtightened. While you checking make sure there is threadlock or silicone along the thread as well. You may just have to loosen them off a 1/4 a turn.

(:-})

[bethanysdaddy]

I think the same Cybercarl. I did threadlock the locking nut and used RTV silicon on the outside of the nut. I will have a play tomorrow and get back to you. Thank you for giving me a little time.

[bethanysdaddy]

Well, im in the workshop right now and I think I have found the (worrying) problem. I stripped the necessary parts tonight to re-tension the CCT's. When I rotated the engine to check the timing, I found there were tight spots on the rotation accompanied by a moaning noise from the top end. I slackened the eight cam carrier holder bolts and found they were extremely tight!!!! I then torqued them to 21 Nm as per the Haynes manual. The sound is still there in places but the engine does seem a little easier to turn. Now tomorrow, all I have to do is slacken and re-torque the front holder bolts. (I have done about 300 miles since the work was done).

I just hope no long term damage has been done.

F***ING BIKE SHOPS!!!!!! I knew I should have done it myself!!

[bethanysdaddy]

Dont want to risk riding further by taking it to the shop, I dont want to do more damage and its a 45 mile drive from my house (was recommended to me by a friend ). So, as I have little faith in people that repair vehicles for a living (apart from me), I will sort it myself.

[VTRDark]

How tight where the bolts then. I wonder if they actually replaced any shims. They may have just over tightened down the cam to close up some gaps. I think your best to double check those clearances as well. Also if the bolts where seriously overtightened it would have stretched the bolts, so by torquing down to the proper torque will not hold secularly. It may not be a bad idea to use new bolts or at least use some threadlock with them. Bloody garages.

(:-})