CCT'S? ?????!!!

[Jetblack]

What should i do for the best?
New original upgrade!!!!

Rebuilt???!! who do i contact?

Manual type? Where to buy?

Atb JB

[agentpineapple]

it should all be here in the workshop section buddy.
bazza makes them and he's cheap and good quality by all accounts.
the cheapest way is the stopper mod. i've never had to do it tho because my bike already had a pair of ape ccts fitted when i bought it.
you need to get them sorted tho....
click on this for the stopper mod.........http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=19416

[AMCQ46]

The worst option is to do nothing, the 2nd worst is to fit new standard ones, the other options are all good and depends on your budget.

I personally choose the stopper mod, as it combines the benefits of the auto adjuster and it is fail safe when the spring goes. The fact that it costs nothing is a bonus

[Jetblack]

Whats involved in the stopper mod?

[Jester666]

Click this >>>>> http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=19416

[klx678]

The worst option is to do nothing, the 2nd worst is to fit new standard ones, the other options are all good and depends on your budget.

I personally choose the stopper mod, as it combines the benefits of the auto adjuster and it is fail safe when the spring goes. The fact that it costs nothing is a bonus

The negatives to the stopper method is the same problem some of the Kawasakis, Yamahas, and Suzukis have that use the lock bolt method. They can slip sometimes under the stress. The lock bolt also tends to mark the spot where it is tightened down and when an adjustment is needed it may be so fine as to have the plunger slip back into the old mark. I've got an XS1100 and an XS850 tensioner each with this issue, that had manual units made to replace them and I made a tensioner for a 96 RMz 450 that would keep kicking the tensioner back out of adjustment. The side lock isn't as secure as a inear adjuster bolt with a locking nut as virtually all manual tensioners use.

The positive is you aren't going to lunch your front cylinder top end and that saves some serious money.

I'd personally use it as a temp or stop-gap method if I either couldn't afford or didn't want to spend money on regular thru-bolt style manual adjusters at the time. But keep in mind that possible adjustment issue should there be enough wear to need adjustment. Every time I've had to adjust my tensioner for clicking i'ts only been maybe .006-.010" adjustment. So if you can not get good adjustment after doing the set bolt, then go with the manual tensioner set up.

[AMCQ46]

The worst option is to do nothing, the 2nd worst is to fit new standard ones, the other options are all good and depends on your budget.

I personally choose the stopper mod, as it combines the benefits of the auto adjuster and it is fail safe when the spring goes. The fact that it costs nothing is a bonus

The negatives to the stopper method is the same problem some of the Kawasakis, Yamahas, and Suzukis have that use the lock bolt method. They can slip sometimes under the stress. The lock bolt also tends to mark the spot where it is tightened down and when an adjustment is needed it may be so fine as to have the plunger slip back into the old mark. I've got an XS1100 and an XS850 tensioner each with this issue, that had manual units made to replace them and I made a tensioner for a 96 RMz 450 that would keep kicking the tensioner back out of adjustment. The side lock isn't as secure as a inear adjuster bolt with a locking nut as virtually all manual tensioners use.

The positive is you aren't going to lunch your front cylinder top end and that saves some serious money.

I'd personally use it as a temp or stop-gap method if I either couldn't afford or didn't want to spend money on regular thru-bolt style manual adjusters at the time. But keep in mind that possible adjustment issue should there be enough wear to need adjustment. Every time I've had to adjust my tensioner for clicking i'ts only been maybe .006-.010" adjustment. So if you can not get good adjustment after doing the set bolt, then go with the manual tensioner set up.

Klx mate, you are thinking of a different mod, if you have a read of the sticky in the knowledge base, you will see some of the boys here (way before my time) came up with a very smart solution that leaves the Honda CCT active, but limits it's travel if it fails.

[benny hedges]

anyone got an r6 btw??? ive got a ape cct to fit one.... it wont fit the firestorm before anyone askes... the flange bit is different.

[Phimosis]

Cant you work your flange a bit.....

[benny hedges]

Cant you work your flange a bit.....

holes are in wrong place & wrong centres, otherwise its same.

[AMCQ46]

Cant you work your flange a bit.....

holes are in wrong place & wrong centres, otherwise its same.

cant you spot a double meaning based on the other use of the word flange

[Phimosis]

hehe

[klx678]

The worst option is to do nothing, the 2nd worst is to fit new standard ones, the other options are all good and depends on your budget.

I personally choose the stopper mod, as it combines the benefits of the auto adjuster and it is fail safe when the spring goes. The fact that it costs nothing is a bonus

The negatives to the stopper method is the same problem some of the Kawasakis, Yamahas, and Suzukis have that use the lock bolt method. They can slip sometimes under the stress. The lock bolt also tends to mark the spot where it is tightened down and when an adjustment is needed it may be so fine as to have the plunger slip back into the old mark. I've got an XS1100 and an XS850 tensioner each with this issue, that had manual units made to replace them and I made a tensioner for a 96 RMz 450 that would keep kicking the tensioner back out of adjustment. The side lock isn't as secure as a inear adjuster bolt with a locking nut as virtually all manual tensioners use.

The positive is you aren't going to lunch your front cylinder top end and that saves some serious money.

I'd personally use it as a temp or stop-gap method if I either couldn't afford or didn't want to spend money on regular thru-bolt style manual adjusters at the time. But keep in mind that possible adjustment issue should there be enough wear to need adjustment. Every time I've had to adjust my tensioner for clicking i'ts only been maybe .006-.010" adjustment. So if you can not get good adjustment after doing the set bolt, then go with the manual tensioner set up.

Klx mate, you are thinking of a different mod, if you have a read of the sticky in the knowledge base, you will see some of the boys here (way before my time) came up with a very smart solution that leaves the Honda CCT active, but limits it's travel if it fails.

My apologies, I'll have to look it up. I just hate to see anyone waste an engine in any conditions. It happened to me and anything to make it work right is the right thing.

[benny hedges]

Cant you work your flange a bit.....

holes are in wrong place & wrong centres, otherwise its same.

cant you spot a double meaning based on the other use of the word flange

its a sad sad fact that at least 69% of members here are filthy minded basterds

[Kev L]

Says Benny the Puritan!!!!!!