Battery charging rate?

[TUG]

Hi, sorry if makin new threads is wrong of me but it just seems quicker for responses? (I really do appologies but i'm in a really tight spot)
My bike died the other night and refused to start, i just got it running and i'm a bit concerned,
The bike is charging at over 14v on tick over and if i rev the bike up the volts drop to 13.4v(ish)
Imo it sounds like the reg/rec is faulty? and my battery has overcharged and buckled.
Would i be correct?

[sirch345]

I don't think your charging rate is anything to worry about, as the workshop manual states between 13.5 and 15.5 volts. Iirc the volts on my bike drop as I increase the rev's.

If your bike does have a rectifier without the cooling fins on it (the earlier 16ltr tank models all had no cooling fins) I'd still recommend replacing it, as it will go one day.

Chris.

[tony.mon]

Agree with Chris, those volts are ok, but for peace of mind check again after repalcement rr is in.

I have a spare you can have (donated by Jonesy at a Workshop day) that you can have, finned type but you may have to modify the connector.
I can let you have the pin configuration if you want.
Yours just for the P+P. probably about £3.50-4.00

[TUG]

I've been using the bike everyday though, its my main form of transport.
Its never struggled before, the battery voltage was at 12.3v or lower the other day. i charged it and was at about 12.5v and i just about managed to start the bike.
In my experience of checking batterys when i was a mechanic they charge at about 13v+ at tick over and increase to 14/15v @ 5000rpm or more...

So my friends i must ask, why is it doing it the wrong way round? you must use more energy as the bike revs more surely?

[TUG]

Ok guys, heres the deal, just started my bike and it was like i had fitted a new battery, it fired up without struggle and on tick over (without lights) 14.3v with revs 14.5v (with lights) 13.7v and revs 14.5v so the charging system is working fine, and the battery seemed fine, but this again points to my reg/rec. In my previous post i said it was constant 14v+ then went down to 13v+ as i revved it regardless of lights etc.
I diagnose REG/REC and faulty battery which i will upgrade to a YTX14-BS. Thanks to Tony as he's supplying me a REG/REC if i ever meet you mate, pint on me.

[tony.mon]

Disagree, I'm afraid. Not about the pint, but if you're getting between 13 and 15.5 volts, the reg rec is fine.

If it fails, you get either effectively none (ie below 12v) or loads, up to 20v or more, which cooks the battery.

I find (I have a combined voltage display and gear indicator, so watch mine all the time) that it fires up fine with anything over 12v showing.

So....
One known fault is a dodgy connection where the lead joins the starter motor. The big cable can start to fray at the ring terminal; this reduces the continuity and gives more resistance in the lead, then it won't pass enough current to start properly.

Easy to check, run a secondary lead (thick one- mains 30 amp cooker lead will do) from the relay (under the seat plastics, LH side) to he starter motor. Don't touch it when trying to start it; it can get very hot very quickly.

The worst case is that the bolt coming through the case melts, and you can't just buy the bolt- it comes as part of the graphite contacts set.
Obviously check connections at the relay end too.

Don't think it's the rr. They can't fail then fix themselves; they stay broke.

[TUG]

Disagree, I'm afraid. Not about the pint, but if you're getting between 13 and 15.5 volts, the reg rec is fine.

If it fails, you get either effectively none (ie below 12v) or loads, up to 20v or more, which cooks the battery.

I find (I have a combined voltage display and gear indicator, so watch mine all the time) that it fires up fine with anything over 12v showing.

So....
One known fault is a dodgy connection where the lead joins the starter motor. The big cable can start to fray at the ring terminal; this reduces the continuity and gives more resistance in the lead, then it won't pass enough current to start properly.

Easy to check, run a secondary lead (thick one- mains 30 amp cooker lead will do) from the relay (under the seat plastics, LH side) to he starter motor. Don't touch it when trying to start it; it can get very hot very quickly.

The worst case is that the bolt coming through the case melts, and you can't just buy the bolt- it comes as part of the graphite contacts set.
Obviously check connections at the relay end too.

Don't think it's the rr. They can't fail then fix themselves; they stay broke.

Already replaced as it had cooked itself a few months back. checked it again (first thing i did) and its fine so we can rule that out.
Well if everything your saying is true and everything i was taught is wrong info then i best get myself a new battery but even that is holding charge at pressent...
I'm a little lost now. I checked all my connections and stuff an they're all connected and not burnt, my charging system works, the lead to the starter is new, my reg/rec is working yet it cant decide what it wants to do or if its irish.

Lets review my situation, rode my bike from orrell to southport with no previous fail starting, got to southport and left my bike in gale force freezing wind. got on bike and seemed to start then rode off, pulled a wheelie (with choke on) landed fine then another yard or so the bike cut out (in gear with the clutch out).

I then tried to start the bike to hear it crank once then lock up completely and it did this all night, i got it home, charged it the next day and tried to start it the following day, battery died within a few cranks, left it on charge again and just about started the bike as i found the charging was back to front (14v tick over 13.5v revved) left to see if my battery would drain and it didnt and then the charging corrected itself?

[tony.mon]

Yep, it's certainly an odd one.
Al I have left is an intermittent connection reducing cranking amps somewhere.

And without the problem reoccurring, you haven't much hope in finding it.

All I can add is good luck, and hope it doesn't come back. If it does, then you have a chance of sorting it.

[benny hedges]

someone accidentally left their bike switched on last night and it has flattened the battery lol.
well, almost.
i hope that's all it is. was fine on the way home, just hoping i havent fried summat with having it left energised for so long.
it's on charge atm

[TUG]

I still think its my REG/REC I PM'd you tony, do you know what REG/REC it is? Cos i really want to fit it with a new battery.

[benny hedges]

i fitted one off a cb1100 blackbird on mine - its much bigger than the original one and has masive cooling fins so should last the life of the bike...
it takes the standard plug so will go straighton with no mods, but due to the bigger size will only mount with one bolt - no biggy

mine cost me £13 off ebay.

[TUG]

I just checked the bike over, theres no loose connections, no breaks i could find, the earth to the engine is fine etc etc.

I checked its charging and continuity and everything checks out, but its charging my battery at 14v+ on tick over then when i rev up my bike the volts drop to 13.5v+?

Can somone check their charging system for me please because my bike is my only transport and i've not been able to go anywhere on it in fear of breaking down again.

[benny hedges]

cant really start mine up now m8 or the plod will be here in 5 mins lol...
i'll have a look tomorrow & measure some voltages..
have you chaged the r/r???
sorry i dint re-read all the thread!
just wondering if you may have fitted a yam one and wired it wrong?

[TUG]

Nope it already had a fireblade RR fitted to it, it didnt get that hot after 10 mins ticking over but tbh its charging the wrong way around, me and my mate (mates a bike mechanic a propper one at that)
agrees with me in that its not right.

[TUG]

Just checked the bike again and its reading -13.2v at 5000rpm and when i let go of the throttle it cut out and refused to start?
I swear my REG/REC is dead, please help?