Help..... Setting up the timing.

[sirch345]

Jazz,
Yes AMcQ is on the right track, the Firestorm does have what is known as a wasted spark, that's how it will run with the valve timing out by 180 degrees.

So with the camshafts removed it doesn't matter what cycle the piston is on so long as it's at top dead center (TDC) as you said by lining up the FT mark on the alternator you're ready to start on the front cylinder first.

Next align the cam sprocket marks FE and FI level with the top of the cylinder head (the marks on the cam sprockets should be facing away from each other NOT facing each other, also the cam lobes must be facing away each other), keeping the cam chain taught from the crank sprocket run the chain over the front (exhaust) cam sprocket first then the inlet cam sprocket next so that any slack in the cam chain is going to be taken up with the CCT.

As AMcQ say, next turn the engine over 270 degrees ANTICLOCKWISE (three quarters of a full turn) so that the RT mark is now lined up on the alternator, you are now ready to set up the camshafts for the rear cylinder.

The RI and RE marks on the cam sprockets must now be lined up with the top of the cylinder head (the marks on the cam sprockets must be facing away from each other. The cam lobes must be facing towards each other), next start to fit the cam chain keeping it taught from the crank sprocket run it over the inlet cam sprocket first then the exhaust cam sprocket so any slack left will be taken up by the CCT.

I know this has been said plenty before, but definitely make sure you turn the engine over slowly by hand (socket with tee bar on the bolt on the end of the crankshaft turning it ANTICLOCKWISE a good number of turns just to double check the valves clear the piston before pressing the starter button.

HTH,

Chris.

[Jazzscot]

cheers for that Sirch mate I have it clear in my mind now. The only thing Ill have to play about with is the cam chain tension. I have a set of lovely manual one that rider on a storm sent me. how much movement should there be between the cams. I have seen some vids on youtube that show the tension to be pretty slack (well slacker than I imagined it to be)

Jazz

[sirch345]

cheers for that Sirch mate I have it clear in my mind now. The only thing Ill have to play about with is the cam chain tension. I have a set of lovely manual one that rider on a storm sent me. how much movement should there be between the cams. I have seen some vids on youtube that show the tension to be pretty slack (well slacker than I imagined it to be)

Jazz

Jazz,
You asked me that one before and my reply is still the same

Ape say between 1/4" and 3/8" deflection between the cam wheels with the guide removed (beware don't drop the side bolt down inside the cam chain tunnel when removing it )

Chris.

[Jazzscot]

So I did doh, Iv noted it down now and pinned it on my noticeboard.


Jazz

[benny hedges]

Ape say between 1/4" and 3/8" deflection between the cam wheels with the guide removed (beware don't drop the side bolt down inside the cam chain tunnel when removing it )

Chris.

cling film stuffed down the slot Before you remove the bolts.
use threadlock when you put them back.
tip - don't try to use superglue as threadlock lol - i did once and snapped a lug off my new yosh cam

[Jazzscot]

Ok, I have now set up front and rear cylinders. The FT mark has FI and FE align with the head and lobes pointing outward.
rotated 3/4 of a turn to RE mark, the RI and RE marks align with the head lobes pointing towards each other. Cam chains tigntened up to roughly 1/2" deflection. Turned the engine over by hand two revolutions checked marks and they are still lined up. Turned it over by hand another twice to triple check..... yip marks still line up. So I guess Im safe to start putting things back together.

Anything to do before I press the red button??


Jazz

[Phil-VTwin]

Yep, put the cam covers back on

[Jazzscot]

Yep, put the cam covers back on

Yeah yeah yeah smart butt
There is always one Eh Phil

Jazz

[tony.mon]

Pray

[Jazzscot]

Got the old girl running today. Ticking over very nicely. let her run for a wee while to get up to temp etc. Gave her a few handfulls and all seems well. The only thing is I an hearing a squeek. Almost sounds like a bird chirping. Tried backing off the cct's a wee bit to see if it made any difference. Nope it didnt, any ideas??

Jazz

[Pantaloonie]

Back them off some more... Squealing/chirping = too tight cam chain.

[tony.mon]

+1
This sound is heard when the tensioner is too tight, and it's pulling the cam sprockets down so that the cam journal bearings aren't able to keep separation with the oil, and you're getting metal-to-metal contact.
It will wear the cam journals in the head really quickly.

[Jazzscot]

ok will have a go tomorrow. Im pretty pleased that she is running again. got a few bits and pieces to clean up tomorrow then I will give her a good wash and polish. I think I have been really lucky (I know Iv said this before) But it could have been a nightmare.

Jazz

[TUG]

I need help, my timing marks wont line up, the haynes manual is wrong and so is the one i downloaded.
I've spent a total of 10 hours timing up my engine to no effect, the FE and FI marks are always a tooth out, so i dont know what to do.

[Jazzscot]

make sure that they align exactly with the head. The easiest way I found to do it was to get a steel ruler and lay it flat on the head. note where the bottom of the ruler is on your chain and your timing mark should be on the same spot.

I hope you understand what I mean, cause Im pish at explaining things.

Jazz