What is it?

Neophyte · Post by **Neophyte** » Mon Apr 05, 2004 8:59 am

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me what the 'cone' shaped housing is that is located on the left front and right rear of the engine? I'm asking as I quite obviously don't have a workshop manual.

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Mon Apr 05, 2004 9:39 am

Cam Tensioner

If not your gunna have to give us more clues to play this guessing game. (19 guesses left by my reckoning)

Pete.l

RQ · Post by RQ » Mon Apr 05, 2004 10:53 am

Who mentioned Tensioners????????

Neophyte · Post by **Neophyte** » Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:23 pm

Can I just remove it or do I need to know something special???

delmeekc · Post by **delmeekc** » Mon Apr 05, 2004 6:58 pm

Neo,

I would stop there, stand back, and think again, If you don't know what it is why do you want to remove it, help help, padded cell needed.

Del.

Neophyte · Post by **Neophyte** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 4:59 am

I see your point Del but that's exactly why I am asking. I was also expecting guys in the know like you to answer and not someone who thinks they know what it is. If it is the cam chain tensioner I want to see in what state it is. And that would have been my next question: How do I know if it needs replacement. I'm not gonna go to some so called mechanic that's gonna tell me it needs replacement when it doesn't. What is one supposed to do if you're surrounded by a bunch of workshops who are only interested in your money?

Neophyte · Post by **Neophyte** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 5:22 am

I've tried with the original post and now again but I can't get the picture uploaded so I placed it on myown website and I'm pointing to it from here. Here's the picture of what I'm talking about

iggy1966 · Post by **iggy1966** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 8:17 am

Yep thats definately your cam chain tensioner Neo.

Iw ould definately consult your manual before removing as I think (could be very wrong here but...) you need to remove them with the pistons in a certain position, Del will be able to tell you the proceedure I'm sure.

Ian

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 9:18 am

Neophyte
If the engine,s not wrattling or making a slapping sound leave it alone!
If you are getting a slappy type wrattle you can diagnose which tensioner needs replacing by simply sticking the handle of a screw driver in your ear and the other end on each tensioner body in turn. The noisey one will be easier to find that way. (bet it's the front one).
Oh ... and you can take em off just by undoing the bolts at it,s base but without a special little locking plate you won't get them back on very easy,if at all.
Pete.l

RQ · Post by RQ » Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:00 am

Neophyte,
Take a scan back over the posts regarding CCT's in the workshop section and you'll understand what it's all about. By taking it out, you will not be able to see what state it is in. There is an internal spring that fails in it, and unless you have something to analyse the make up of springs, you won't be able to tell. If it is going, there is a slapping noise in the engine, ie the cam chain whipping around inside. If it gets that far, kill it before you bend valves and wreck pistons. Basically if it aint broke...........

Neophyte · Post by **Neophyte** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:37 am

Thanks a lot guys. I thought it might me the CCT. I don't want to take it off just for the sake of doing it. I do have a slapping noise - from the rear actually.

I'll have to see what aftermarket ones are gonna cost me with the exchange rates and all as I can recall the guys moaning about the quality of the Honda part. From Honda I'll most probably have to wait 2-3 weeks which is way too long for me if I have to stop riding while waiting for the parts. I use the bike everyday because the car's a killer in more ways than one.

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 12:37 pm

It might not be f8cked.
I had one which was getting slappy when the engine was only half warm. The rear aways fills with oil because of the angle of it but the front is nearly virtical so it stays dry inside. Anyway on the inside is a screw slot (about an inch down inside the "cone") if you turn the screw it retracts the tensioner from the chain or ,if left alone, as the chain stretches it should rotate the other way to take up the slack.
My front one got stuck, I guess because it was dry. So I just dribbled a little oil down the hole, screwed the tensioner fully retracted and just let go. Did this a couple of times,just to be sure the adjuster mech was operating smoothly again and kerching. One fully functional tensioner

Oh, by the way. If you are going to try this you should know that the washer on the end of the tensioner is a special "crush" type and is supposed to be replaced once it has been removed.(but if you are careful with it it should be ok for a second go)
Pete.l

delmeekc · Post by **delmeekc** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 6:05 pm

If your going to attempt to test the spring is working then the cylinder your going to test must be at TDC on the compression stroke. If not then the cam chain tensioner will just retract as you turn the screw driver because the cam chain will be kept taught by the open valve/valves.

Also the crank will only be at TDC on the compression stroke every 720 Degrees and not every time the FT is seen in the inspection window.

Del.

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Wed Apr 07, 2004 9:29 am

cor

Del said.

Also the crank will only be at TDC on the compression stroke every 720 Degrees

How do you know when the enjin is that hot?
What size jets do you need

Pete.l