VTR1000.ORG

One last question for today. I tested the resistance of the TPS sender on the rear carb. Everyone including Haynes and the Honda workshop manual says resistance between the lower two terminals in the sensor should be about 500 ohms when set correctly and the throttle is fully closed. But...mine read...

Also fitted a front vacuum take-off https://am3pap003files.storage.live.com/y4mJ1V3b7aJhz3DMXF_gNNzzEpHXRika3A1HkGdQJmuU1IDJPzs9uNBH337vtNlW7NcJTn6DqiV90c0JKgOuGslZXtMJ9v7qygGWDn51FKYM8E5RSL6q0x1bvPOr_1R45jX2mjBqkmMP3ER31hyHMsgbG_MEkpC7mFZ8Xl7-8wxhKvX6Zj7YmOkrW1bBU_zUFqs?width=4032&height=2268&a...

I have the carbs on the bench, and decided to check the existing settings. Good news is that they are completely clean inside! Pilot screws were 1 turn out front and 1.25 turns out rear....I reckon previous owner has misunderstood the Honda Service manual drop test propcedure. ie from point of idle ...

Richard wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 8:30 am Anyway, I'm a tight-wad, so my way is cheaper

Your a tight wad, hmmmmmm sounds like your Mac's brother from another mother
[/quote]

Yes, making the CCTs fool-proof probably the main driver. Shame they weren't designed to be bullet-proof too! My plan has been amended by the discovery of a pair of bobbins on threaded bar, in my deep 'stock' (actually fallen behind the workbench and forgotten for 10 years) :lol: Fitted through the ...

Thanks Tony and Chris. I had no idea the auto backs off at 3K rpm. I had assumed it was a 'one-way' thing, similar to a spring loaded ratchet. Much happier now with the manual setting :thumbup: Although I guess it'll be a bit more noisy up to 3K than the auto. I wonder if Honda were thinking of the ...

Another question :lol: Fitted the manual CCTs today and set the chain slack to 6mm. Was surprised at how tight the chains were tensioned by the OEM auto CCTs before I started...hardly 2mm of play in each. Why is it recommended to set the manual CCT slack much looser in comparison? https://am3pap003f...

tony.mon wrote: ↑Thu Jan 19, 2023 3:39 pm It's about 4mm.

That's quite substantial....I'll give it a go

I drilled into the swing arm and fitted bobbins with no issues whatsoever, even when sitting in the bike while in the stand, over many years. Just make sure you fit short bobbins that sit flush with the arm, and make sure that you use m8 fine taps and Allen screws. Thanks, that's really useful :thu...

I drilled into the swing arm and fitted bobbins with no issues whatsoever, even when sitting in the bike while in the stand, over many years. Just make sure you fit short bobbins that sit flush with the arm, and make sure that you use m8 fine taps and Allen screws. Thanks, that's really useful :thu...

Cheers, Chris mentioned that too

There are various ways to use a hook type padock stand. 1/ fit bobbins to the swing arm. either drill & tap or have some bosses welded underneath. 2/ a through the spindle bar with bobbins on the end. 3/ there are adapters that fit in each side of the of the spindle with the bobbins. 2/3 both t...

MacV2 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 18, 2023 9:25 am Sod all that, buy the time you've faffed around with all that clipping, soldering & re wraping I'd have swapped the loom over & been out on a test ride !

I'll race you next time (maybe)!
Loser buys the beers

Anyway, I'm a tight-wad, so my way is cheaper

What do you all do to use a rear paddock stand? I'm currently using a long screw driver through the hollow axle, then paddock stand hooks. But it's a bit fiddly and wobbly...also bends the screw driver. I've seen a few pics where owners have drilled and tapped the swingarm to fit bobbins, but not co...

On the bearing, just me and the noise/grumble some make at idle, clutch in. Most owners don't care and put up with it, then some bikes dont seem to do it either. Its the third go with a different bearing source and date code. Do they fail...or just make a noise? Mine is quiet, but it's only done 9K...