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There really is no way to "pre" tension. Based on the design it's either tensioned or not and the spring only goes in one way. I'm not sure why they were having issues but it's fairly straightforward. And, pre-tensioning is no big deal if that's what you need to do in order to take up slac...

eamonn wrote: ↑Fri Apr 03, 2020 6:41 am yaaaawwwwwwwwwnnnnnnn.

I'll try to develop better content asap...my apologies.

Woops, forgot to respond to that bit. Preload is a cinch: Install the spring Re-install circlip wind wind in the adjuster Insert locking key Install into bike Release key and verify that everything is as it should be If you're worried about spring tension on the new spring vs old... The spring is a ...

I had a gander at the Higgins...It is a new oem honda unit with...wait for it...an improved spring design. But at 270 euro I think I'll pass.

AV

Literally, it takes 30 seconds to remove the spring and another 30 to install it. So, if 1 minute longer than installing an mcct is too much then I really have no answer for that person. As for the guarantee...I suppose I'll offer the same as Honda, Kreiger, and APE....which is precisely nothing. As...

Anyhoo, here's some more food for thought. I turned the old block upside down with a head on it so you can see down the bore and more fully understand the issues with bigger valves and shrouding should you choose to go down this path as well. Below is a pic looking straight down the bore at what wou...

I've heard...but this is for sure an easy peasy mod. No harder than an MCCT. As for the stopper mod, I understand that it won't let the adjuster back out, but will it allow the stopper to move forward? By design it seems to prevent the adjuster from turning; or did I miss something? I intend on addi...

After a bit of deliberating I've decided that when it comes to the ACCT's we may have been missing a simple and yet critical point. Based on Rogers post regarding bad cct's I took apart my old ones only to find 2 perfectly good torsion springs of thin diameter wire. It's a fairly simple construction...

Nope, they don't. Both are the same. I misspoke earlier, the lobe lift is actually .409". Depending on lash you will have less than that installed when at operating temperature. Also of note...take a look at the Mori1 cam specs, you'll see that they reduced the lift on the exhaust lobe in order...

And here's the gears: Zoom in and you'll see the difference. Bit of 50:50 here but I'm saying the one the right is the machined one. I've not experience of machining but the holes look cleaner cut and the teeth have what look like grooves in them that I'm guessing are from machine tools. Looks like...

You are correct, however, the ex cams really don't have any more lift. At least not the 3 sets I've measured. They have .405" of lobe lift on both the exhaust and intake. I have not yet verified the timing events yet though. Either way, "gain" is relative, if you move the power to whe...

Yeah, I tried fitting johnsons in there too but they went right off the chart. I know that drag racing isn't really the thing but it is one of the few measured things out there and I only intend it as a comparison for acceleration in relation to weight/power/whatevs. I suppose I'm saying that the V ...

I think you're on the money- interesting results regarding cam lift increases giving little extra flow. I guess, once it's open, it's open. Increasing valve size would also be helpful, but only to a point, because increasing diameter also increases the length of the seal, and the longer the seal, t...

And here's the gears:

Zoom in and you'll see the difference.

I think you are spot on with the Stop & Start impression of flow. That is exactly what is happening and it's where most people are losing touch with reality. The exhaust leaving and the air coming in have mass and are a column with pressure at the nose and vacuum at the rear. It's because of the...