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While I have the rear in bits, I have been trying to grease the bearings...on the drawing below, I have taken part 5 and 18 out from the end of the triangular piece of alloy thing, and it came out very easily, it had very slight corrosion so I covered in copper grease and refitted. I undid bolt 13 t...

Nice one - thanks guys

Will give this a go this weekend when im (hopefully) going to be putting the rear end back together.

When refitting the rear wheel, what is the best way to make sure you get the two chain tightening things right so that the wheel is aligned?

Oh baldrocks

Thanks guys

I never noticed that horizontal bolt, just saw those two and was confused by how to take them off. I had wondered why one was bigger than the other too, I guess that will be the shock mounting one.

How do you remove the back two tank bolts? You may be able to see in photo there is a yellow lip on the tank covering the 2 bolts and there is a metal lip in front of them meaning you can't get a spanner in...im confused :-(

I wouldnt have thought it would be practical to polish the lower forks since they are made from alloy and will mark too easily.

You could maybe get them electro plated, or powder coated?

Cheaper option is to just sand and paint them silver so they look fresh.

Oh, maybe we are talking about different bearings then

I meant the one at the bottom of the shock that kind of points backwards toward the back wheel....I thought that one was next to the main exhaust pipe and well before the end can link pipes.

Hmm Maybe I could - its in the garage I didnt throw it away so might try. I would expect that the grip needed on the little 'polo' shaped piece of alloy around the stud will crush / deform it badly though....but if it does, I might pack the stud with a few copper washers and pack them in tight to fo...

Lol - its a smart fix the first time - the second time that little collar on the head is going to get too short to cut back any more. The only down side I see is that part of the stud's thread will be exposed. I dont ride in the rain or in winter, so not a major issue for me, but the next owner may ...

No worries

I would have thought the same to be honest, but my neighbour is some sort of mechanic whiz, he took a look and when he couldnt get the stillsons to grip, he told me to do what I did. He said it would be fine so im hoping there are no problems when I put it all back together.

Surely it will still sit straight?

The clamp only goes down the pipe as far as the fat end piece that sits inside the head. If I tighten the stud on the normal collar first and then the shorter collar second, it should be ok shouldnt it?

Yes number 6 - good guess

I had to hammer the old one out with a screw driver - and im pretty sure it was asbestos which isnt good, it looked like asbestos anyway.

£11 is more than I thought - will gasket paste not do the same job?

If you're going to take the exhaust off to check that bearing, then be careful with the studs, my exhaust is off at the moment and I have had a nightmare trying to get the sheared studs out.

Thanks Barry I'll try some of that.

Anyone know where to get gaskets for joints in pipes? I can find gaskets for cylinder ends but not pipe joints....should I just use gasket paste?

Well I got them both out without welding...first one came free with mole grips after a few hits with a hammer and filing a flat edge on the stud. The second was shorter and too short to weld really, so after trying everything, I used a dremmel to cut the collar on the head back by about 4 mm to remo...