dynojet help needed

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warby221
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dynojet help needed

Post by warby221 »

Have a problem may be some one can help
This is me probably being thick but

I was just installing a dynojet kit in to my vtr and the instructions read as follows
Remove the stock main jet and replace with dynojet mains provided
If you are running the stock exhaust install the dj170 when running a good aftermarket exhaust with a high flow baffle use the dj80s the dj170 is to be used if running at high altitude.
The main jets supplied are 170s, 180s, and 190s :o

Now read this
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/1185.pdf


Now im running a set of laser race pipes and a k&n thus by this info I should be running a 185 front and a 188 rear

So now im flummoxed as to what jets to put were I mean the last thing you want to do is run an engine lean
Do I put the 190 back and front or go 180 front and a 190 rear????
Or is it of to the bike shop and buy the recommended jets tomorrow
What have you set yours at
God I wish I never did a web search
A little knowledge and all


p.s also look at the parts list first page me thinks the US customers are getting a better deal with all them different jets to try all that for $85 approx £50
:x
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Pete.L
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Post by Pete.L »

Warby Said
me thinks the US customers are getting a better deal with all them different jets to try
That's what I believe too.
The UK kit often leaves you with a choice of having the rear looking a little lean or the front a little rich. Laser Duo Techs run best on the 170s front and rear. I tried 170 bought extra 175 and 180. 17o ran best so I stuck with them. Don't know about the Hot Cam Laser or any of the others you'll have to have a play. Or you could pop down you local tuners an see if they are willing to give you some inside infomation :wink:
Pete.l
phild
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dynojet

Post by phild »

Hi Warby ,looking at those instuctions it says U.S. models only! I did mine 18 months ago as follows... K/N filter,180 jets,groove no 4,mixture screw 2 and 1/8th. I have micron race cans (not for road) everything works fine and acceleration is brutal. I am not very good at all that pdfing stuff but can e mail you a copy of dynojet instructions for european models if you want...cheers phil
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warby221
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Post by warby221 »

Thanks for that phild
I do have the European instructions for dynojet kit but I did a search because the k&n wasn’t mentioned that’s when I came up with the US site and the recommendation for the mains to be 2 sizes bigger with pipes and a k&n
Then I started doubting whether the instructions were right as there’s no mention of the 190 jets that’s in the kit
Guess I needed to hear from some one who’s done the conversion already

P.S dose everybody drill the slides for the auxiliary lift hole then???
As the instructions seem to imply its needed for race use

God give me a set of d.o.c.e. Webbers then I know what im doing
alan
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Post by alan »

According to the instructions i have you still have to drill the slides for stage one kit.

The part where it mentions for race setup is as follows:

Remove the needle retainers o ring reinstall the needle retainers into the slides without needles or washers (this is neccessary as the needle retainer is to be drilled along with the slide.

Drill through the retainer using the existing slide as a guide.

I'm in as much as a pickle as you mate i dont know which way to go jet or not,so many people say the dyno kit is a pain to tune with a K & N and opt for the factory pro kit at least in the states they do and like PeteL says the dyno kit can wear the carb so what do you do??????

I'd like to know what will happen if you dont jet and just ride with it running rich? can it cause injury to the lump?

this is a very grey area for me, i can customise a bike no probs but tuning/setup im a bit dumb!!!
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warby221
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Post by warby221 »

Right the slides get it then driller killer time :twisted:

I use to do a lot of tuning in my younger days but with cars and im use to tuning carbs
But of the fixed jet type i.e. Webbers carbs
Not had much to do with C/V carbs such as SU or Stromsburg carbs
One thing for certain run an engine lean and you’ll promote pinking and overheating
Run it really lean and you’ll melt the piston or have the plug drop bits in your engine 8O
It’s always better to have a performance engine run a bit rich as the extra fuel helps cool the piston crown to rich and you wash the oil of the bores :(
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beckster
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Post by beckster »

I used the 180's with the needles at notch 4 with the washer underneath.
The slides are drilled as instructed.
K&N filter and fuel exhausts with the baffles out.

The engine pulls cleanly the whole way through the rev. range and does not stutter.

Have a look down this sites page.

http://www.roadracers.co.uk/dynojet.htm
If it ain't broke,fiddle with it!
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warby221
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Post by warby221 »

Thanks for your words all
Job now done
The carbs will be back on when the snow stops and the manual cct are fitted
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