Hi all, I'm pleased to join this great forum. Last week I noticed a bike hidden away by an old garage. I dropped a note through the door and long story short, the guy said I could have it. So I've got myself a 2001 Firestorm VTR. I knew the forks were damaged and it needed new tyres and that's why it was left outside for 5 years sadly, but it had been a good runner. I have begun the slow process of taking it apart as I want to make sure everything is as good as it can be. I have done mechanics in the past on old VW's and I know one end of a spanner from the other, but I know very little about bikes. Still, I feel it is worth trying to bring this one back to running. I will need lots of help with probably silly questions. So far I have stripped off the farings, fuel tank, seat, and cans and tried to see what happened with an external battery source: answer, a big click and a fried starter solenoid, which lead me to the starter which had a corroded +ve post that was shorted to earth. I also noticed the exhaust tubes that cross over under the bike were full of water, but at this stage I'm hoping that was just years of rain, although the coolant reservoir is dry?? Before I spend too much money, I want to try and turn her over and check compression. About to order a cheap starter and new solenoid. Does this sound sensible or am I missing any really obvious mechanics check that I should be doing first up? Any advice is very welcome. Here she is - a couple of pics before covered in algae and after a clean up.
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
If you remove the larger of the two inspection ports on the lh side of the engine you can use a 19mm socket to rotate the engine to make sure it isn't seized.
Be careful, as that inspection cover is made of very soft alloy. It rounds out easily.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
As Tony says, make sure it will turn over (anti clockwise as you look at the alternator cover), then at least you know it’s not a complete basket case.
As for the starter, it is a common part with other Hondas like the blackbird, and because it is in a more protected location on those bike, it is easy and cheep to get a working 2nd hand part. You may find that you need to replace the red cable to the starter as well, it may have gone very high resistance.
One final mod you should do as it has been left standing, is to change the cam chain tensioners before you get it running, as the internal springs can fail leading to bent valves. I suggest you do the stopper mod as it will cost nothing but it will protect the engine in the event of a failure
Thank you both, I will try that today. I’ve already read loads on this forum on the manual CCT’s - as I didn’t even know what the acronym was before I joined up There are some great posts on here about it. I was planning to replace the wire from starter as I had to cut the connector off when the 10mm nut was rusted!
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
Donut 77 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 9:18 am
Thank you both, I will try that today. I’ve already read loads on this forum on the manual CCT’s - as I didn’t even know what the acronym was before I joined up There are some great posts on here about it. I was planning to replace the wire from starter as I had to cut the connector off when the 10mm nut was rusted!
If it's not too late already, try not to let that live (+) connection bolt spin, as if it does it can break the insulator inside the starter motor body,
tony.mon wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 8:07 am
If you remove the larger of the two inspection ports on the lh side of the engine you can use a 19mm socket to rotate the engine to make sure it isn't seized.
Be careful, as that inspection cover is made of very soft alloy. It rounds out easily.
Hi Tony, is this the side you refer to? If so, do I need to undo the hex bolts or just the 10mm ones around the outside?
Its now looking like this:
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
It’s the big one in the centre, usually the hex chews up as the metal is like soft cheese. If you can’t shift it you will need a centre punch and hammer to persuade it.
Duffy1964 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 3:14 pm
It’s the big one in the centre, usually the hex chews up as the metal is like soft cheese. If you can’t shift it you will need a centre punch and hammer to persuade it.
I didn’t touch that one in the end - just the 8 x 8mm bolts around the outside. I’m starting to wonder if I should have done the big central one as I need a new gasket now. It was good to look in there anyway!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
get that inspection cap of, some oil down the plug holes and spin it by hand just to see if it turns, other than the cct autos they are a hard engine to break
Duffy1964 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 3:14 pm
It’s the big one in the centre, usually the hex chews up as the metal is like soft cheese. If you can’t shift it you will need a centre punch and hammer to persuade it.
I didn’t touch that one in the end - just the 8 x 8mm bolts around the outside. I’m starting to wonder if I should have done the big central one as I need a new gasket now. It was good to look in there anyway!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unfortunately you need that inspection cap off and the casing put back on to retime it correctly. The marks on the rotor align with marks in the cover.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
There is compression My attempt at measuring it by hand cranking was a disaster, but I've decided that rather than buy another starter I would mend the existing one. Its taken some doing, as everything was seized, but its all now back to brand new looking, nice and clean inside with a new +ve post made from a 6mm bolt.
The front garden looks like a scrap yard!
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
[/quote]
[/quote]
Unfortunately you need that inspection cap off and the casing put back on to retime it correctly. The marks on the rotor align with marks in the cover.
[/quote]
Thanks Tony, I hadn't even considered timing yet. This is going to be a steep learning curve. I'm guessing that as there is no distributor, the timing is set in there? I will carefully remove the inspection cap. I hope I haven't altered the timing by removing the casing and putting it back. Another dumb question, but is there a separate coil for each head? I've only seen one, but it only goes to the rear cylinder.
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
fabiostar wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 8:08 pm
get that inspection cap of, some oil down the plug holes and spin it by hand just to see if it turns, other than the cct autos they are a hard engine to break
Hi fabiostar, thanks for this. How much oil and just 10W40? (I think this is the stuff listed for this engine)
I presume this is to give good compression readings? Can I ask why you would do this when it isn't how it would read in normal use?
In the manual is lists 9.4:1 which I make 138psi - is that what I should be expecting?
In answering, please just assume that I don't know very much!
Good job I’m not in a rush…
No longer in the B154-M club.
Good work on rebuilding the starter motor, did yo make sure to insulate the new +be post?
On the other questions.
Putting a little oil in the bores is just because it has been sat for too long without running, so getting a bit of lubrication onto the piston & rings will help free things up and make sure it is not running dry metal to metal for the first start. As a side note, It will also cheat the compression test slightly as it will disguise leakage past the piston rings.
Oil for these bikes. 10/40 semi synthetic motorcycle (not car as we have a wet clutch)