tony.mon wrote: ↑Sat Jan 25, 2020 8:47 am
Know what you mean about things not being centered, the Storm rear shock upper mount always offended my eye by not being central as soon as I took the seat off.
I know it couldn't clear the exhaust otherwise.
If it was properly off to one side, fine. But a few mm just looks wrong.
You don't notice it at the bottom end.
Yeah, I'm the same Tony, that little bit is enought to make it look like you don't care & a dodgy job. As you say, the rear view looks iffy on this project as well.
sirch345 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 26, 2020 1:07 pm
I think you're doing very well, considering how this wet and cold weather is not exactly over inspiring to getting yourself into the workshop, especially if like me you have no heat in it
Although I must admit when I was younger I didn't take that much notice of the cold like I do now
Here I am going on about the cold, it hasn't really been that cold down here yet
Chris.
Cheers Chris, today it's really cold, the wind chill isn't helping & it's making it feel like minus 1. I should of covered my potatoes last night
I never used to feel the cold when I way younger either, now heated grips are mandatory equipment on every winter ride
I've been looking for a cheap camera & purchased a £35, 20 megapixle effort from Argos. What a load of crap, I took some pictures but they were very poor quality, so I took it back.
Right then, now according to AMA flattrack rules ( I know but it has to look the part.. ) the front number board has to be fitted on/parallel to the forks. The problem is the top yoke ignition key support casting thingy prevents this, so grinder out & off it came. I'm not sure if I posted about this at the time, but I cut it a while ago & it looked awful. It left a big gap comparable to two missing front teeth & needed sorting.
So last week I removed the offending yoke, removed the handlebar clamps & bolted it in the vice. Wound the tig welder up to 100 amps AC, helmet on & proceeded to fill the offending gap up with 3mm filler rod. Ten minutes in & all hell brakes loose with black smoke pouring from the anti vibration rubbers which are on fire. Doh Panic mixed with a little disappointment sets in as I quickly take the smoking disaster out side so I can breath & see what I've done. Ffs.. I remove the two rubbers. that haven't fallen out, clamp it up & finish filling it up.
Whilst it & I were cooling down I proceded to turn down some steel bar on the lathe to make four replica non-antivibration handle bar mounts, Another 4 hour job no one will see.. then with a 4" grinder equipped flap wheel shape the yoke to make it look as slick as possible. Tbh, to the untrained eye you'd never know it was touched after a thorough wire wooling to clean off all the tarnishing
Another little/big job was the upper number board mount. Whilst faffing with the above, I decided that because there was going to be no movement in the handlebar mounting bolts (because of the solid mounts ). I could use them to hold the board bracket. So I bolted some 20mm dia 4mm thick stainless 8mm washers onto the bottom of the handlebar mounts. Then tacked up two small pieces of shaped (bent) 10mm dia stainless Yacht rigging to the washers. The correct distance was worked out for them to touch making an "A". Then the mounting bolts/nuts were really tightened making sure there would be no movement, then I partley turned down a short length of a stainless 8mm threadded long nut (originally 50mm long).
The "A" section's tip was then cut away in two parallel (ll) cuts & the threadded long nut was placed in between & tacked up. To finish it off, another thick 8mm washer was tacked on the end of the nut & then the whole thing was welded up. Another little job sorted but a propper Faff again.
Here's a couple of poor pictures with it all fitted together. Ignore the 9 on the board, it's to piss my mate off
As you can see, the camers was pants.