Finned r/r failure???

[Diabolus]

I have a battery charging issue again
When I got the bike 2 1/2 years ago (10,000 miles approx) I replaced the r/r for a finned newer type and replaced the battery and all was good until last Sunday when I took part in a charity Easter egg run in which we got stuck amongst 550 other bikes in a crawl through town for about 45mins (several bikes overheated and broke down including an SP1 ) I was pleased my fan was kicking in at just over half way on the temp gauge and completed the run no probs.
I then went for a ride out about 30 miles to mount-sorrel with the misses on the back stopped at a pub at side of canal for a spot of lunch.
We were in the pub for nearly 2hrs and when we came out to start the bike to head for home a push of the starter just resulted in the horrible clicking noise of the starter solenoid the battery was too flat to start it (I have break down cover and he arrived after an 1hr wait, he started it off his booster but i wasnt happy that if i had to stop for any reason on the way home it would start again so he took us home in the van).
I replaced the battery with a moto-bat 14ah type and it started first time and started the checks as per carls guide It appears it intermitently charges the battery at 13.5v max down to 12.5v.
on inspection the block connector was damaged:


and the corresponding terminal on the r/r seems to be damaged by excess heat:


So what has caused this is it simply a case of buying a new r/r and terminal block or is there a chance the stator has an issue

[Diabolus]

off to Scotland on the bike in 10 days so need this sorted asap.

[mattycoops43]

You can test the stator, the resistance should be the same across each pair of wires, they should be ok, my reg blew up and they were still ok. It depends in what way it goes though.

I think your reg rec has gone mate, the finned ones are better, but they still blow. ONly real fix is to fit a mosfet one instead as they just shut off if there's a problem and then restart when they cool down.

When they go, they start to run hot, when they reach a certain temp they stop charging, this is why they can test as charging even when duff, because unless you do a long enough ride for it to get hot it will still show as charging.

[Diabolus]

Going to order a new r/r now, but cant afford a mosfet and my fuel for scotland is a R1 r/r the best alternative?

[VTRDark]

Yep most likely the R/R has reached the age of giving up and overheating/no longer shunting the excess heat away. Unfortunately this is the case with older technology, the fault lays with the internal design. Lets hope it's not damaged the battery along with it.

For a quick cheap fix you could install the same again a non MOSFET type marked by an SH or for something that is rock solid but costs a fair bit more you need a MOSFET marked by a FH. You can get R1 MOSFET's on ebay for about £60 but take a bit more work to install properly. You will notice they have two plug connectors but double check the part number starts with FH before purchasing as there are cheap Chinese copies that look the same but are non MOSFET.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=30861

You can get a non MOSFET R1 R/R but it;s a gamble as it;s the same design. I have run one for years with no issues yet. But Lloyd has been through a few of them that have failed. It's the risk you take.

(:-})

[Diabolus]

looking at this one as it comes with new connector too:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Regulator ... 4169df1222

[VTRDark]

Most likely a Chinese made thing but It will do the job and get you out of trouble but as said it's the risk you take. They can fail. It may last years, it may last not so long. Better than the CBR125 ones or later storm ones IMO as they have a larger finned areas.

(:-})

[macdee]

cant find the thread on how to change to the R1 R/R (does anyone know where it is )this might help

[lloydie]

Unless it's a MOSFET r1 reg leave it alone .
2 or 3 r1 regs went on me in 18 months .
I now have a finned honda rr and it's been fine

[VTRDark]

Here you go macdee it's not a thread on but a website.
http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/

Unless it's a MOSFET r1 reg leave it alone .
2 or 3 r1 regs went on me in 18 months .
I now have a finned honda rr and it's been fine

Luck of the draw, they are all the same design unless MOSFET.

(:-})

[Diabolus]

got a finned honda one begining with sh part number.

[scoobie_sore_paws]

having same issue. run up to braemar and was ok after a coffee stop. 200 yards down to petrol wouldn't restart totally flat.
jumped it and ran with no lights and starts no problem, even if left overnight so looks like no oomph left in it to chg the batt

which mosfet is best to get http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/ ... PR=-1&TB=A

rr58 or rr69? the 58 looks like a straight swop but doesn't state if sh or fh.

[scoobie_sore_paws]

off to Scotland on the bike in 10 days so need this sorted asap.

oo which bit? kettle on if you passing my way and want a break

[VTRDark]

The 58 looks like a non MOSFET as it has a single plug. The MOSFET have two separate plugs reason being that the regulator and rectifier parts of the internals are separated from each other which is one reason why they are better.

More info here http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... how-25117/

These are the MOSFET style R/R\s
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380704480069? ... 1423.l2649

(:-})

[tony.mon]

It may be too late now, but the fact that you have a burnt terminal doesn't mean that the RR is wrecked.
There's a lot of current passing through those terminals, and if one is slightly loose or furs up and a poor connection results, all of the current tries to go through the point contact remaining, rather than the flat-to-flat connection that is able to carry the current properly. Arcing occurs, and you get sufficient heat produced form that to melt plastic, and if there's damage to the connector itself, metal.

But it doesn't mean that the RR has failed. I'd clean and re-make the terminals and see if it behaves before shelling out on a new one.