i need help

[gabi81]

right so ...balanced carbs..adjusted tps to 500 changed plugs ....fuel lines and vacum lines checked for splits cracks .....exhaust checked for blows and replaced all gaskets but the bike judders like mad when i ride it especially in 3rd gear up i just cant seem to find the fault.....
and my end cans heat up
please help.....

[darkember]

Are your end cans standard stock, if so they will get very hot that's normal as they are really restrictive. As for the judders we need more info, does it happen throughout the rev range? In all gears? Does the bike idle correctly? Can you rev past 7K rpm to the limiter? There are probably more but cannot think of them right now.

[VTRDark]

What speed and revs are you dong while in 3rd?

(:-})

[gabi81]

i have remus cans on
today after finishing the checks i went out for a blast ....was doing about 130 in 4th didnt really look at rev counter
it just wont go in higher gears with judderring like mad it stays in 2nd nicely but as i hit 3rd it starts
im trying to get it to work in town where im limited to 30 but dont really want to do it in 2nd gear all time
it seems to judder more after 4k revs ....it really bugs me ...could it be the tps?

[VTRDark]

Did you follow the TPS guide on this forum. I doubt it's the TPS actually but it's easy to rule out and check if it's functioning correctly. There's a test in the workshop manual IIRC the Ohms should rise as you twist the throttle open. Check the Honda workshop manual!

You can download a PDF Honda workshop manual from the following:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025

It seems your only getting it at higher speeds. It could be the jetting/clogged carbs, Ignition pulse generator, timing, it could even be the coils.

We need some history here...has this only started happening since adjusting the tps, what makes you think it's the TPS? OH.......... best rule this out. Petcock vacuum.

Please read

(:-})

[ging500]

Did you follow the TPS guide on this forum. I doubt it's the TPS actually but it's easy to rule out and check if it's functioning correctly. There's a test in the workshop manual IIRC the Ohms should rise as you twist the throttle open. Check the Honda workshop manual!

You can download a PDF Honda workshop manual from the following:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025

It seems your only getting it at higher speeds. It could be the jetting/clogged carbs, Ignition pulse generator, timing, it could even be the coils.

We need some history here...has this only started happening since adjusting the tps, what makes you think it's the TPS? OH.......... best rule this out. Petcock vacuum.

[url=http://wCarl,tr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29843&hilit=vacuum+hose]Please read[/url]

(:-})

I agree with carl.

When did this start happening and what if anything have you changed.

Also find out exactly when the juddering happens ie revs gear speed.

Also try using the choke to see whether this improves thing's which could suggest a fuel problem.

Other than that it is starting to eliminate possible problems working through the basics, fuel spark and air.

[gabi81]

this started after fitting the lines for balancing the carbs
left them there as suggested and blocked with 6mm long bolts
i followed the instructions on both balancing and tps adjustment
changed plugs cleaned air filter (k&n) and checked all air lines and fuel for clogs,dirt,etc
the judder seemed to be calmed down a bit since adjusting tps.(it was 867)..wonder if i should drop it to 450?
if that dont cure it dont know what it can be.....
a trip to the garage...... £££££££

[VTRDark]

this started after fitting the lines for balancing the carbs

Well there is a big clue and a good place to start. OK to confirm.... that the vacuum take off runs off the front cylinder and then capped off at the end. Then a T piece is put in place on the vacuum line that goes to the Petcock/diaphragm. The T then has the rear vacuum take off coming off of that and then capped off at the end.

Double check all you vacuum lines. Make sure the front has not popped off. I had to use a little glue on mine to stick the hose onto the brass nipple. Also check the vacuum that runs to the petcock/diaphragm Is connected and in the right place. See the link I posted above!!!! You should check the other end as well, where it connects to the rear cylinder by the rear carb inlet rubber. You might have pulled it off when fitting the T piece or something.

Adjusting the TPS wont make that much difference. If you want disconnect it and go for a ride and then re connect it. See what the difference is.

(:-})

[MacV2]

''cleaned air filter (k&n) ''

Over oiled fillter ?

[gabi81]

didnt overoiled the filter
right went out today for a quick run to test it with tps on and off
tps off 1-2 gear ok up to 4k
3-4 judder like mad between 3-4k after its ok
5-6 same as above only 5th seems to like low revs
tps on 1-2 gear okish up to 4k but a lot off backfiring when dropping down in revs
3-4 judder constant up to 4k and seems and sounds like backfiring in carbs......
5-6 same
past 2nd gear took it all the way to 7-8k revs and 6th up to 9k but was going way too fast in traffic and had to slow down
the bike seems to be fine in high revs but does not like low.....will take vacum line off front cylinder and put the bolt back on to see if there is any change and put tps back to 867 or test it at 450

[Pete.L]

this started after fitting the lines for balancing the carbs
left them there as suggested and blocked with 6mm long bolts
i followed the instructions on both balancing and tps adjustment
changed plugs cleaned air filter (k&n) and checked all air lines and fuel for clogs,dirt,etc
the judder seemed to be calmed down a bit since adjusting tps.(it was 867)..wonder if i should drop it to 450?
if that dont cure it dont know what it can be.....
a trip to the garage...... £££££££

Don't want to teach Granny how to suck eggs and all that but. Have you got the vac pipe on the right spiggot on the pet rock or possibly blocked off the wrong pipe?
Sounds like you've rechecked the other stuff so it might be worth a second look too.
Oh and if memory serves, you can disconnect the TPS and the bike will still run okay but it's just not very crisp. It never made mine judder when I tried it.

Pete.l

[gabi81]

yes it is the wright one
i took front one off and it stopped backfiring
so tomorrow will do a run to see under load if judders gone or still there
also ordered some new vacum pipes and petrol to change them all

[VTRDark]

Oh and if memory serves, you can disconnect the TPS and the bike will still run okay but it's just not very crisp.

That's why I said disconnect it, to to prove it makes very little differance proving the fault most likely does not lay with that.

i took front one off and it stopped backfiring

Well that makes no sense because if you disconnect either the front or rear vaccum you normally get more popping and banging. Or did you remove the brass connector and out the bolt backin the cylinder head in which case there must be a problem with your vacuum take off.

(:-})

[gabi81]

The thread on the nipple seemed short compared to the actual thread in the casing so I think it must be that ...
I will find tomorrow if that worked and take some pics and a video when on bike to show symptoms if still there

[popkat]

It sounds similar to what mine does, upto about 3.5k revs it'll splutter and cough really bad, but when fully warmed up runs fine, not just warmed on the temp gauge but after about 5 miles of running, to get round it I ride with the choke on a little which makes it run ok, then after 5 miles turn the choke off and all is good. When I got mine I fitted cans then a couple of weeks later adjusted the tps and blanked off the Pair system (flipped the reeds) but it didn't start doing it straight away it started a bit later then got worse over a few rides. I thought it might be lean running because of big bore pipes, and riding with choke on would seem to confirm it, but it doesn't make sense that it's fine after 5 miles.
I don't really see it as a problem now, but would love to know exactly what caused it. I'm selling the bike now so either the new owner (when I find one) can do what I do or i'll put the bike back to standard which hopefully will make it ride as new.