VTR1000.ORG

yeah i guessed that it was the markings on the crank balance halves instead of on the crank cases as there are no marks on the crank cases, i matched them up with the haynes and that let me to green for the big ends and brown for the crank main journals. should I just order brown and green?

why are the main journals in the engine colour coded green? when crank and rods say they should be brown? are the markings on the shells themselves just wrong?

and say I want to order green and brown, (which i'm probably going to) how do i transfer the colours into part numbers?

Edit, nevermind bikebandit has saved the day, c is brown and D is green

I said it would suddenly all make sense.....
Make sure you keep them in their bags and labelled until you insert them.

well it was easy enough regarding the colours, it was only when i found bikebandit which had the letters a,b,c,d and E along with the colour codes so I could work out which colour is which letter.

http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon ... aft-piston

lists part no's and colours.

left main journal :13315-MBB-003
right main journal: 13325-MBB-003

big end front:13227-MBB-003
big end rear:13237-MBB-003

Well the project is still going, albiet slowly. got both heasd sorted and ready to bolt on, all valves lapped in, cams re-installed and shimmed to loose side of tolerance. decided to take the oil pump apart as it looked a little scratched on the side of the rotor. needless to say its Fecked! think i'll just buy a replacement from davidsilver (£75) for peace of mind instead of a used one.


bits arrived, crank journals x2 and rod shells x2, 4x new rod bolts and a new clutch centre nut


spent about 3 hours with some brushes, some paraffin, and some rags and cleaned all the dirt off the outside of the engine, any marks now left on it are where the corrosion has eaten through the paint.

Looking good mate

Nice to sit and stare at all the nicely engineered, shiny lumps of metal!

Keep it up .
How long before you have it up and running ?

Good job

Chris.

Thanks Just got to keep at it! not sure yet, have to figure out what i'm doing with the cylinders, might just hone the bores and chuck the pistons back in with rings. have you had any luck

still have to find someone to make me the gearbox bearings might just have to *gulp* buy them from honda.

A friend who owes me a favour (several) and works at the plymouth dockyard says he can vapour blast the cases for me for free so i'll set about masking things up.

Well slow progress, just started putting things back together, before i realised i'd only bought 4 crank shells, half of what is required. so will have to order some more before I can even start.

keep at it! i have a set of std bore JE High Compression pistons just begging to go in. anyone have any idea what i can expect to pay for having them installed? no way do i have the skills or tools to do the job myself, although i wish i did. but im wondering what something like this will cost. hoping that wit just over 20,000 miles the cylenders will be in spec and everything. worst case i bore and resleeve to 98mm.

Jscobey wrote:keep at it! i have a set of std bore JE High Compression pistons just begging to go in. anyone have any idea what i can expect to pay for having them installed? no way do i have the skills or tools to do the job myself, although i wish i did. but im wondering what something like this will cost. hoping that wit just over 20,000 miles the cylenders will be in spec and everything. worst case i bore and resleeve to 98mm.

A rebore and re-sleeve to 98mm diameter will cost way more than the bike is worth.

then hopefully they are in spec..... from what ive found out talking to people, the rebore and sleeve will cost less than the install of the pistons....

It's not difficult to do yourself. Just pull the plastics and both heads off, lay the bike on its side, remove the sump, clutch cover and oil pump and you can just about get to the big end bolts. Undo those and the pistons come out of the top with the rods still attached.

Hone the bore, wash with lots of flush (paraffin is fine).

Replace pistons, fit new rings, reassemble, job's a good 'un.

That's not what the books say, but it's a lot cheaper than a full engine removal, strip and rebuild, and because you haven't disturbed the mains and gearbox bearings, assuming they aren't in need of replacement you can leave well enough alone.

tony.mon wrote:It's not difficult to do yourself. Just pull the plastics and both heads off, lay the bike on its side, remove the sump, clutch cover and oil pump and you can just about get to the big end bolts. Undo those and the pistons come out of the top with the rods still attached.

Hone the bore, wash with lots of flush (paraffin is fine).

Replace pistons, fit new rings, reassemble, job's a good 'un.

That's not what the books say, but it's a lot cheaper than a full engine removal, strip and rebuild, and because you haven't disturbed the mains and gearbox bearings, assuming they aren't in need of replacement you can leave well enough alone.

hmmmm i wasnt even considering doing the pistons but now.... just maybe. ill have to talk to some friends and see what were talkin in terms of pricing to have it done at their shop. if i can get a good enough deal, ill leave it to an expert. if its outrages then ill undertake it myself

proof that the clutch and oil pump dont need to be removed to get to the big end bolts, right?