VTR1000.ORG

well tony.mon, I took all the gears off the output shaft, couldn't work out which way it came off but it didn't look like it came off the clutch end so after much hammer smashington towards the sprocket end it looked like it has moved about a 1 MM, I'm thinking it came integral with the output shaft from honda? ronayers parts fiche shows the output shaft and bearing as one unit part no 23220-MBB-000. the bearing is ruined now. so probably new output shaft!

It'll need pressing off and a new one pressing on, a hammer isn't going to shift it.
If you need a spare shaft, let me know, I have a few in stock.

Thanks muchly for the offer tony, i'll keep that in mind, and for the help.

I managed to get the bearing off the shaft today, while at work today it suddenly dawned on me I had a 3 leg blind bearing pulled sitting at home(I don't know why this didn't occur to me last night)







I had a check with the bearing and it slides right up the other side of the shaft to that collar, So I was just thinking of chucking the shaft in the freezer and the bearing in the oven, then chucking the old bearing on the clutch side of the shaft and the new one on the sprocket and and just cranking the vice up to press it on myself.

Argh a case of the right tool for the job. I bet you was kicking yourself.

I would replace that bearing on the clutch side with a new one seeing as you have it all apart and there's the chance to replace it. IIRC I think Tony suspects this as a cause of the popular clutch rattle.

I'm sure he will be along soon to confirm that or not.

(:-})

I was planning on replacing the clutch bearing, and trying to get some new gearbox roller bearings too, you can see the pile of bearings in the background of the second picture, thats the clutch bearing and 2 roller bearings for the gearbox ends.

I can't see the point in replacing some but not all of the bearings on the shafts....
The larger bearing that sits behind the clutch was my prime suspect no. 1 as the reason, or at least a contributory factor in the clutch grabbing problem on hard launches.
However I changed mine and it still did it, along with everything else I could think of- kevlar plates, captive springs, etc, etc.
Latest possibility is the clutch master cylinder, or possibly slave cylinder.

I'm going to be replacing all the bearings in the gearbox. i've just take the main crank journal shells out and they're colour code green? what should I do about ordering them? can't find any on davidsilver as they don't have green??

what should I do about ordering them? can't find any on davidsilver as they don't have green??

Japan might.
http://japan.webike.net/HONDA/VTR1000F+ ... /308/mtop/

I changed mine and it still did it, along with everything else I could think of- kevlar plates, captive springs, etc, etc.

That's good to know Tony. So you still chhasing that one down then,

(:-})

I had a rummage on that site and no bearing shells or anything, piston kits and FCR carbs tho, must resist! (well at 1400dollars its not hard). so unsure what to do now.

For David Silvers give em a bell and see if they have them for later years of the VTR. IIRC they stopped parts for early models. Daft as they are mostly common parts over the years.

Serlant wrote:I'm going to be replacing all the bearings in the gearbox. i've just take the main crank journal shells out and they're colour code green? what should I do about ordering them? can't find any on davidsilver as they don't have green??

All that means is that they don't stock them, but they can order them from Honda.
Mind you, so can you, and it'll be quicker if you order direct from a main dealer.

Also try one of the part number comparison sites to see which other models have similar crank journal diameters and widths, and see if you can order some from another model.

you could try alan Jefferies engine tuner in valley road , plympton , for your valves and head . predominately car workshop , but will do bikes . they rebored my barrels to take wiseco pistons , reasonable price , excellent service.

you took your firestorm crankcase there and they bored them for pistons? that sounds perfect any idea on the price??

re the main bearings, whats confusing me is the colour codes, when i go on parts fiches like ronayers it lists the shells as sizes a,b,c,d and e, so this doesn't tell me which one is which colour. the markings on the crank and rods are, crank A,2 and rods B,2 which would would A,2 for big end shells which is green, but for the crank main bearings it would be B, 2 which is brown, which are different colour to the main journals that were in the engine. the manual says the size is stamped on the left crankcase journal top outside edge, i looked everywhere there and there are no markings stamped in.

Pop a PM off to roger from revolution racing. I'll be the could answer your query

The markings are written onto the balance sections of the crank itself and on the big end/con rod sections.
It's the difference between the two that gives you the shell thickness.
Have a close look and use the Haynes- it works ok for the big end and main shell charts- so becomes self-explanatory once you've found the markings.