New bike, new problems.

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:39 pm

Took delivery of my Firestorm this morning, but a few issues have arisen.

Firstly, specs are as follows: Pretty clean T-reg F-X model in blue/green (looks much better than I thought it would), 20,000 miles, full service history up to 16,000 miles, Scott oiler and Datatool Veto alarm. I bought it without seeing it in person, and when I looked at the history this morning, the 16k service was done in August 2003! I'm hoping it's been serviced by whoever added the next 4000 miles. Should I expect the CCT's to have been changed in that time?

Anyway, replaced the dead battery with the one the dealer supplied and fired up the bike. Started fine and sounded pretty healthy, so I let it warm up for a few minutes and rode it up and down outside my house a couple of times (about 200 yards total). Switched it off, let it cool and then washed it. When my brother got home from college, he wanted a go, so he fired it up and as he backed out the drive, it cut out. This happened in the same way as it does when you engage first gear with the side stand down. It didn't give the impression it was running out of fuel (although I don't know what this bike sounds like when it runs out). Started it up again, he rode it down the road and it cut out again in the same way. This happened a third time. Each time it cut out at low revs, and each time it sounded fine before cutting out. So I checked the fuel tank, which, as it turns out, is pretty empty. Only a little petrol sloshing about in the bottom. No fuel warning light though. It was dark by this point, so I thought I'd just call it a night and have a look tomorrow. As I wheeled it onto the drive, it developed a clicking/knocking noise. The rate of clicking/knocking increases as you push the bike faster. There doesn't seem to be anything interfering with chain movement, and the noise appears to be coming from the rear engine and swing-arm pivot area. Very difficult to pinpoint it exactly though. The noise doesn't go away if I hold the clutch in either. Is this the CCT animal rearing it's ugly head?

Also, whoever fitted the aftermarket lower fairing didn't spot it was touching the exhaust. As a consequence, part of it has melted. Careless, but not major. I'm thinking of tidying up the rough edge on the fairing and wrapping some heat wrap around the offending part of the exhaust. On that topic, the stock exhausts don't sound that bad at all. God knows what my new Fuel exhausts will sound like!

Not an ideal introduction to Firestorms, but I do have a 3 month warranty so I'm not too concerned. Anyone got any advice?

Cheers,

Ben.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:47 pm

Hi, mate.

Firstly, the noise you heard is the chain running onto the exhaust link, L:H side.
To check this; sit on the bike, wheel it backwards and forwards, the noise isn't there.
Get off, do the same, it can be heard.
This is just due to the chain not being correctly adjusted; you have to do it with someone of your weight on the bike.

You can't just expect CCT's to have been changed; they're not a service schedule item.
But get them swapped for manuals to avoid early disappointment.

Cutting out doesn't surprise me. The carbs will need balancing, and also it will "cough" through the airbox as it does it. It's normal, they all do it to a greater or lesser extent.
Next, turn the tickover up to 1400rpm, the adjuster is visible between the vee of the engine in the left hand side- it's a plastic adjuster. Screw it upwards.
Probably old fuel, which doesn't help either.
Don't bother with 98 RON, it makes no difference to a standard one.

Lowers often touch the exhaust, and the exhaust will helpfully remove the touching part for you. Clean the resulting hole up, and no more problems.

Hope you can get those little things sorted, and get out and ride it!

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:07 pm

Thanks for the quick reply.

The chain adjustment being incorrect did cross my mind. However, the noise can be heard when on and off the bike. I'll adjust it anyway and see if that helps.

Any thoughts on why the fuel light didn't come on? I'll be checking the wiring and connections tomorrow and I've read about the sender failing. Perhaps the fuel level just isn't as low as I thought.

The idle speed is currently at around 1000-1100. Perhaps a bit low, but it is a very smooth idle. Sounds like the carbs are balanced. I'll still check them anyway.

Thanks again.

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:16 pm

If it's been standing around I'd be tempted to drain the tank and carbs a refill with fresh fuel first. Clicking from chain could be a sticking link, also caused by it sitting around.

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:22 pm

The noise is not the CCT, as the engine is not running, and you say it is wheel speed related.

I would have agreed with tony that it is the chain just rubbing on the lower link pipe, if not that it can just be the noise of a slightly worn chain going over the front sprocket.

Idle speed is too low at 1000, needs to be up near 1400 to make sure it won't cough stall. They have a great habit of sounding just fine and then stalling if the idle is too low.

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:24 pm

Greetings - As for lower fairing - find some heat resistant matting and some hi-temp silicone adhesive and apply Blue Peter style over the effected area

http://www.bakerprecision.com/insulat.htm. Should be some on ebay somewhere

Here goes: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBO-EXHAUST ... 865wt_1165

Re. fuel light - 1st check and replace bulb in instrument console.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 1&p=181213

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:50 pm

I had the same noise but front the front about 4-5 ticks with the full wheel rotation it turned out to be worped discs and sticking pads
Try checking the rear brake .light pressure on the rear brake when rotating the wheel .
If you have a paddock stand that will help you find the location of the noise better as you will be able to see and here it when you rotate it by hand to find the source

Sorry officer
The voices made me do it

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:58 am

Thanks for the help guys. The weather is looking good for today so I'll get cracking with your suggestions in the morning and keep the thread updated. I really want to take it for a spin, but I know patience will pay off. Had a few problems with my brother's VFR400 NC30 when he got it in spring last year. Took us about 2 months to get it finished and he missed out on some really good rides (he had to use his YBR125 at the time - not really fast enough to keep up with a CBF600 and an SP2). He was itching so much to ride it you might have thought he had fleas. Great bike though and the work paid off. Gotta love Honda's.

Cheers.

P.S. Any Firestormer's in the Illogan area near Camborne and Redruth in Cornwall?

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:06 pm

An update on progress for those interested.

The noise seems to have disappeared and I haven't even adjusted the chain yet as I've been polishing and need to buy a hex socket for the axle nut.

Regarding the fuel light, I'm thinking of either draining the remaining fuel or using it up as there may be more than I thought inside. Hard to say if the light definitely should be on.

Here comes the fun part. Exhausts turned up today. Fitted them (using Holts Firegum as a sealant), disabled service mode, inserted the key and switched on the ignition, then the alarm sounds. I forgot to disarm it after taking it out of service mode. So I turn off the ignition, disarm it and try again. Nothing. I thought is was because I had the seat off, which meant the switch under the seat that activates the alarm if the seat is removed while armed, was not on. I put the seat back on and allow the alarm to reset before trying again. The sodding alarm has completely imobilised my bike and the repeated arming and disarming over the past few days have drained the battery. I've started the de-spiking process and have my battery on charge. Before I dismantled the alarm, the Scottoiler started making noises (like a fuel pump priming on a fuel injected bike) when I turned the ignition on or pressed the arm/disarm button on the alarm fob. I assume it's trying to pump oil (it's empty though), which is fine, but it didn't do that when the alarm was working properly

The alarm is a Datatool Veto Evo. My local Kawasaki Centre quoted Â£42 + VAT to remove it (roughly one hours labour). That seems reasonable, so I'll probably go through with it unless it's easy to do myself. Nigh-on impossible to find instructions though as it's only fitted or removed by an approved Datatool dealer. The only positive was that it took my insurance quotes down by about Â£30.

This kind of s**t always happens to me (no one else, just me

).

Has anyone else had similar alarm problems? How did you get around them (without the use of a hammer)?

Wicky · Post by **Wicky** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:37 pm

Had a spyball? alarm/immobilser that immobilised me at permanently at Sainsbury's many moon's ago. Disconnected it and threw it away pronto. Sorry can't remember how I did it precisely but methodically removed the paralysing parasite wire-by-wire.

stormingjoe · Post by **stormingjoe** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 11:04 pm

Remove the alarm they can cause the cutting out, quite common problem when stored with flat battery.

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:16 am

Cancel the Fuel pipes, they sound just plain dull compared to Beowulfs at the same money, MJonesy if he sees this will testify the the satisfying raucous explosive grenade lobbing tank busting bangs mine pops out...

benh89 · Post by **benh89** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:34 pm

Alarm is now functioning again. The de-spiking procedure seems to have worked. I have since heard that some alarms have a sleep mode that they engage when the battery is low. I did have to re-charge the battery as the alarm had totally drained it. Maybe the low battery was the problem? Even if it was, I couldn't enter service mode in order to remove it as the alarm's internal battery kept setting it off. I'm still going to remove it though.

Fuel light is working now. Like I suspected, the fuel level simply wasn't low enough.

Phimosis wrote:Cancel the Fuel pipes, they sound just plain dull compared to Beowulfs at the same money, MJonesy if he sees this will testify the the satisfying raucous explosive grenade lobbing tank busting bangs mine pops out...

You absolutely must be joking! Trust me, they sound sweet (I am now the God of hellfire). I don't even care if Beowulf supposedly sound better. I'm probably going to have to get ear plugs! What's more, they only cost Â£233 brand new directly from Fuel, whereas they would have been Â£290 + postage from Beowulf.

Should I expect fueling problems with aftermarket cans? I haven't ridden it yet so I don't know how it feels. Given the bike's history, I suspect the carbs are still factory configured, but I can't be certain as I haven't checked yet. Once I'm on the road I'll be getting the power and air/fuel mixture tested (Â£45 at Hodges Motorcycle Works, Penzance).

Phimosis · Post by **Phimosis** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:17 pm

fuelling will be fine no need to waste 45 sqiddleys, even with my baffs out the my mixture is just lean, if you get bigger jets just means you go into the 29mpg bracket looooooooooooooooool

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Wed Jan 18, 2012 6:22 pm

benh89 wrote:
Should I expect fueling problems with aftermarket cans? I haven't ridden it yet so I don't know how it feels. Given the bike's history, I suspect the carbs are still factory configured, but I can't be certain as I haven't checked yet. Once I'm on the road I'll be getting the power and air/fuel mixture tested (Â£45 at Hodges Motorcycle Works, Penzance).

How much????

Ride immediately to Kent, where you can get a power run with stoichiometric ratio readout for only Â£42. (mention my name).

Undoubtedly the dyno operator will tell you that you need to set the bike up properly to suit the cans.
Make sure that you at least clean the air filter before you take it in, and if you were planning to fit a K+N or BMC filter, or dynojet kit, do it beforehand.

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