Watcha

[ndblondy]

Hi all,

New to the site which is weird cos I've had a Storm for about 8/9 years and never heard of the site before the other day!

I don't seem to be able to upload an image of my beast, needless to say, it is red (cos everyone knows red ones go faster) with a lovely matching full belly pan and a few other extras. I've got a nice pair of Viper exhausts turning up any day too which will make her sound a lot better!

Like a lot of you, whilst I think about changing, I really just can't bring myself to do it, I just really love this bike!

Interested to hear more about the cam ticking symptoms and the suspension mods that people are talikng about. Also, if anyone knows how to remedy a spinning captive nut inside the frame that holds the rear fairing on - would love to know about that too.

Good to be here and here's to many a good chat!!

[benny hedges]

er hello
ive got one as well but i wrecked my vipers when i fell off
what rear fairing do you mean? the tailpiece?
some quicksteel will do it. fixes everything.
except rattly cams

[ndblondy]

yeh, the tail piece, where it is bolted to the frame under the front of the seat, the bolt is just spinning.
The captive nut inside the steel box frame is loose so the bolt is just spinning - it's not a problem now, but I do want to fit a grab rail so will have to remove the tail piece at some point.
Don't know if I can get the quick steel inside the frame. I'll have a look, thanks for the tip.

[ndblondy]

sorry to hear about the vipers - did they sound good - I can't wait to get them

[tony.mon]

My tail piece captive nuts spin, too.
If you're careful, you can remove the rear light, undo all other screws/fasteners and just spring it out so that it clears the sub frame, then pivot it upwards on the knackered nuts.

That's fine until it needs spraying, like mine does....

I'll get round to fixing mine fairly soon, and will post the fix.

But here's what I'll try first:
One thing I've done successfully in the past is apply an electrical screwdriver (set on reverse) or at a pinch, a leccy drill on reverse, with a hex bit in it.
Push against the bike as you turn it on, the captive nut head gets very hot due to the friction of it spinning, grips as it expands in the steel frame, and undoes with a crack.
Probably too late already, but don't squirt WD40 on the captive nut, it'll only make it slip more.

Then you'll need new captive nuts- if you drill out the old ones they'll probably stay rattling in the frame forever, so before you fit new ones squirt something in that'll set and hold them still, spray glue is one thing that comes to mind, or maybe a bit of silicon sealer.

Otherwise, E-Bay for a new subbie and plastic.

[benny hedges]

for the tailpiece, i know the one you mean and it's awkward to get at if the tail is on.
you might end up drilling the top off the bolt, or cut it off with a dremel, then fix the nut once it's off.
obviously be carefull not to melt the plastic if you are drilling!
another solution - snap it off lol, everyone seems to snap the lugs off them anyway - usually the rear ones, probably by using the tailpice as a handle to pick the bike up off the floor....

the vipers sounded superb btw - i had the oval carbon race jobbies, no baffles...
very satisfying burble on over-run.
there's a considerable weight saving too, plus you will notice straight away that they are a LOT less restrictive then oem and let the bike rev much more willingly...
go find a good long tunnel, spend the day doing killswitch backfires

when i first fired it up with them i set off neighbour's car alarms and they came out expecting to see a vulcan bomber taxiing or summat
they are in front of me atm cos i cut them down to 8" last night and repacked them - should sound awesome

need to go get some rivets in a bit - might try them out later, but nice sunny day, perfect for a good blast, destination unknown!

[Anotherbikerbabe]

Hello & welcome
Great forum, great knowledge base and super friendly.
ABB

[sirch345]

Welcome aboard ndblondy

Chris.