A good plan for brakes?

Richtea · Post by **Richtea** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:09 pm

Trying to get better braking on my VTR and looking for some advice. I have fitted HBC pads, braided lines and long Pazzo levers. This has helped but still not great. My plan for the next stage is to fit SP1 calipers and if I'm still not happy get a Brembo master cylinder.

Has anyone out there done this?

clayderman · Post by **clayderman** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:18 pm

I think it's an SP1/2 master cylinder and some Gixxer thou K3 calipers that people normally use, someone maybe along to correct me slightly in a minute though. Welcome to the forum by the way

Also I believe the SP brake discs were bigger so the SP calipers may not fit your discs properly.

RedStormV · Post by **RedStormV** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 7:20 pm

Hi,

Welcome to the forum

A cursory search of the foum's thrown these up - well worth a read.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... r+cylinder

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... r+cylinder

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... =brake+mod

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... =brake+mod

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... =brake+mod

HTH

Graeme.

*

Richtea · Post by **Richtea** » Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:18 am

Thanks for that

Stormin Ben · Post by **Stormin Ben** » Tue Jul 22, 2008 10:45 pm

My twopence

1. Give the calipers a damn good clean
I only ever use 2 fingers (max) on the brake lever and have enough bite to lift the rear
Remove the calipers and pads one side at a time
Carefully pump the brake lever -probably one piston will emerge
Clean it up, push it back in and repeat
Then block that piston and repeat -one more piston will come out
repeat until you've done all 4 pistons

THIS MAKES A MASSIVE DIFFERENCE

2. Fit quality pads
I highly recommend Bendix supersport or Carbone Lorraine A3's
NB NOT the SBK-3's
EBC's feel brilliant for the first few hundred miles but go off quickly and overheat with hard use

3. Blead the brakes thoroughly

Only once you've done all three THEN is the time to start making serious mods

NB the SP1/2 master cylinder will give more force but reduce feel

clack · Post by **clack** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:22 am

Personally I find the fork action more of a limiting factor than the breaks themselves.

gilson · Post by **gilson** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:23 pm

What's the difference between Dot 4 and Dot 5? It's for my track bike and I presume that Dot 5 is better? But why?

clayderman · Post by **clayderman** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:14 pm

gilson wrote:What's the difference between Dot 4 and Dot 5? It's for my track bike and I presume that Dot 5 is better? But why?

The higher the Dot rating the higher the boiling point of the fluid basically speaking, whether it's more refined or has different additives I don't know

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:51 pm

I have EBC discs and pads on mine, with braided hoses. The forks have been "done"

I find the brakes to be really good now - I can only agree re the checking of each piston and thorough brake bleeding. Just try the old cable tie round the lever overnight - you might be amazed at the difference!

Also, altering the span adjuster seems to make quite a difference to how the lever feels.

My front brakes are much better than the R1 setup on my TDM!

clack · Post by **clack** » Thu Jul 24, 2008 12:42 pm

DOT 5 has a higher boiling point that DOT 4 but is super hydrophilic so will suck the moisture out of anything in short order. Suitable for race bike use as it gets changed so frequently............................