VTR1000.ORG

ItsaKeeper wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 4:13 pm Not sure if this qualifies as what I have done, more like what I might be able to do in the future

I got an immaculate NOS Honda Service manual delivered from the USA today as a crimbo present to myself. Already have various pdf versions of the manual but I find it easier to read in book form then print off the pdf pages when I am doing actual work.

The total cost including all fees was £64 which I think is very reasonable. I know that Helm Inc can do a brand new reprint for around $50 but the postal costs are eyewatering as is the cost for me to go and collect from the States

The manual covers the firestorm up to 2004 so will do me fine

Well worth having IMHO

Chris.

Shims for the front exhaust valves both need the same size so it’s lucky I didn’t just by a generic box of single shims.
Unfortunately they are not in stock at the dealer so a 5day order from ktm, so I put the old ones back in, fitted cams and cam bridge, then refitted and reset the cct so I could see what size I needed for the rears.

Access to the rear cct is f-tight so then I had to go buy a 22mm ring spanner and grind it down to fit.
Thank god I’ve got small hands to get the cct and o-ring out.

I can use one of the rear shims in the other valve to get back to spec and the other one is also a ktm back order.

So just waiting now, but that comes with an increased risk that I will forget how all the wiring and ancillaries goes back in place (despite a the photos)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Al that all sounds like a major faff . thankfully not a regular job?

fabiostar wrote: ↑Tue Jan 09, 2024 7:41 pm Al that all sounds like a major faff . thankfully not a regular job?

I was thinking exactly the same thing

Chris.

MacV2 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 4:20 pm Took The Murvinator for it's annual tickle from the MOT man.

All good for another year.

Good man Mac

Chris.

removed the battery to keep it warm in the house

AMCQ46 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 09, 2024 9:50 am Shims for the front exhaust valves both need the same size so it’s lucky I didn’t just by a generic box of single shims.
Unfortunately they are not in stock at the dealer so a 5day order from ktm, so I put the old ones back in, fitted cams and cam bridge, then refitted and reset the cct so I could see what size I needed for the rears.

Access to the rear cct is f-tight so then I had to go buy a 22mm ring spanner and grind it down to fit.
Thank god I’ve got small hands to get the cct and o-ring out.

I can use one of the rear shims in the other valve to get back to spec and the other one is also a ktm back order.

So just waiting now, but that comes with an increased risk that I will forget how all the wiring and ancillaries goes back in place (despite a the photos)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hot cams sets have three of each size, so you always have enough for the first time. But if you use up a particular size you won't have them available the next time, so my top tip is to always restock the box with the replacements ( you can buy them individually) so that your stock is always ready.

There are only a few common diameters, and usually only two diameters for bike engines, and I always buy a box when I buy a bike ( if I don't already have them) as I do all my own servicing.

The Tuono v4 is a similar faff, (with 16 to check/adjust) but the cost of the special tools, a shim kit and the gaskets/consumables needed was a similar cost (£800-ish) to paying a workshop to do them. So future full services only cost me the usual gaskets and consumables- lots cheaper.

Plus, I know the job's been done right, and I can keep a record of what shims were needed and where. That way I can spot where a particular valve is receding into the seat (if that one needs adjusting every time) and pull the head to replace it before I get valve failures.

It's not a favourite job of mine but better done than left. It'll be easier next time.

I got the VTR out of hibernation today and ran the engine up until the fan cut in. It was a struggle to start, at one point I was expecting the battery to start draining down before it started even though it has been on the battery monitor / charger over the last few months. Fortunately it started before that happened. Most likely the cold weather didn't help by making the oil thicker, so harder to turn the engine over.

I normally start the bike every 6wks this time of the year, but due to the never ending wet and damp weather, that upset my timescale, so it had been 8.5 weeks since last started.

I just checked to see when I bought the Yuasa battery, it was 20th FEB 2017 that's almost 7yrs ago, so may be the battery is not as good as it was

Chris.

Chris, thats some life outa a battery on a big twin . if i get 4 im happy.

sirch345 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 10, 2024 9:44 pm I got the VTR out of hibernation today and ran the engine up until the fan cut in. It was a struggle to start, at one point I was expecting the battery to start draining down before it started even though it has been on the battery monitor / charger over the last few months. Fortunately it started before that happened. Most likely the cold weather didn't help by making the oil thicker, so harder to turn the engine over.

I normally start the bike every 6wks this time of the year, but due to the never ending wet and damp weather, that upset my timescale, so it had been 8.5 weeks since last started.

I just checked to see when I bought the Yuasa battery, it was 20th FEB 2017 that's almost 7yrs ago, so may be the battery is not as good as it was

Chris.

My go to Battery... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251666124071

After reading Chris's post I wheeled the firestorm outside and started it up this morning and let it run till the fan kicked in, no starting issues thankfully.

I have had battery troubles in the past and think that I probably ruined the previous expensive battery by having it permanently on an optimate. The battery would show as charged but actually wasn't. As an experiment 3 years ago I bought a cheap battery and a different charger, CTek 0.8 and only charge monthly, charge only and never on trickle. It's all good so far and the battery cost about 30 quid delivered and is absolutely fit for purpose, it still costs almost the same now.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batt ... gIYIfD_BwE

I stood back and admired the bike whilst it was warming up and like a kid I revved it up a wee bit when it was up to temp....that Moriwaki sound is gorgeous

Got mine out a win spin for petrol.tad Baltic.

Sent from my SM-J415FN using Tapatalk

fabiostar wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:03 pm Chris, thats some life outa a battery on a big twin . if i get 4 im happy.

Rob, I agree, I'm more than happy with that
But time to replace it now.

What make and size battery do use in the Moriwaki bike with the tuned engine
I've been using the next size up in my Storm which is Yuasa YTX14-BS,

Chris.

sirch345 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 12, 2024 7:53 pm

fabiostar wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:03 pm Chris, thats some life outa a battery on a big twin . if i get 4 im happy.

Rob, I agree, I'm more than happy with that
But time to replace it now.

What make and size battery do use in the Moriwaki bike with the tuned engine
I've been using the next size up in my Storm which is Yuasa YTX14-BS,

Chris.

upto the one i have in now iv always used the standard size, the one atm im using is for a varadaro which is slightly bigger , seems to be holding up well tho during winter i start it up every week or at longest 2 weeks and run it up to temp

this ones a motobatt,

MacV2 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 12, 2024 8:29 am

sirch345 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 10, 2024 9:44 pm I got the VTR out of hibernation today and ran the engine up until the fan cut in. It was a struggle to start, at one point I was expecting the battery to start draining down before it started even though it has been on the battery monitor / charger over the last few months. Fortunately it started before that happened. Most likely the cold weather didn't help by making the oil thicker, so harder to turn the engine over.

I normally start the bike every 6wks this time of the year, but due to the never ending wet and damp weather, that upset my timescale, so it had been 8.5 weeks since last started.

I just checked to see when I bought the Yuasa battery, it was 20th FEB 2017 that's almost 7yrs ago, so may be the battery is not as good as it was

Chris.

My go to Battery... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251666124071

Thanks Mac for your suggestion
I know Tayna are excellent to deal with from past experience.

What sort of life do you get from these Enduroline batteries on average Mac?

Chris.