CCT Question

Simonhep · Post by **Simonhep** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:07 pm

Hi Guys

First of all, my sad, sorry tale, then a question. . . .

Changed my rear cylinder CCT, and made a rock up, I didn't check on the crankshaft that the the piston was at TDC (I know, I know, stupidity)

The rear cylinder exhaust spocket must have slipped around the camchain when I took the CCT out, because when I came to test start the bike off the starter motor, it just clunked once and wouldn't turn.

I realised that the piston must have stopped against the valves, so took the rear cylinder head cover off, and the alternator housing, backed the crank off a touch, then reset the timing using the RT mark on the crank, and RI / RE marks on the cam sprockets.

Tested the engine would spin manually by turning the crank, OK, full turns with no catching.

Put everything back together, and it sort of kicked over but would not even out, then stalled. Tried a few more times, but obviously something wrong.

Took the rear head off again and checked the valve clearances, all good.

So, my question is. If I had bent the valves by turning the engine over on the first attempt when the cam timing was out, would the valve clearances still be correct

Or asked a different way, can the valve timings be correct if the valves are bent

R

Simon

Post by **sirch345** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:34 pm

Hi Simon,

I would do a compression test before you go any further. I would think you have most likely bent a couple of valves, especially as it won't run properly now. As for as the valve clearances being all good, that only really applies if you had measured them before, made a note and they are still exactly the same.

Chris.

PS. Answer to your last question is Yes

Simonhep · Post by **Simonhep** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:15 pm

Hi Chris

OK. I'll borrow a gauge and test the compression. Will keep you posted.

Simon

chris300hills · Post by **chris300hills** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:45 pm

Simon,

If it makes you feel any better, I think I have just done the same, except I've changed both CCTs without checking the piston position first.

Now I've also got a bike which won't start. Hope you get it sorted.

Chris

motorcyclesurgery · Post by **motorcyclesurgery** » Thu Jun 28, 2007 1:11 pm

if you are in or around london I can convert cct to manual adjustment,never have this problem again.
I can also replace the bent valves if need be.
Im on 02087699512. motorcyclesurgery.co.uk

Simonhep · Post by **Simonhep** » Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:47 pm

Hi motorcyclesurgery.co.uk

Thanks for the offer, but the top end of my sick VTR is now in bits, so no chance of travelling down to London from Staffordshire. Will be back into the garage at the weekend to hopefully diagnose the problem, and then order valves next week. Will post more updates as I know more.

R

Simon

storminateacup · Post by **storminateacup** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 11:32 am

How much does that conversion to manual cost

RedStormV · Post by **RedStormV** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 6:35 pm

Hi Storminateacup,

Try reading through this thread in the workshop section

CCT Problem Solved (100% guaranteed)

HTH

Graeme

Simonhep · Post by **Simonhep** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:28 am

Latest update

Took the rear cyl head off, sure enough, both exhaust valves bent.

Had to grind off one of the camshaft holder bolts, stuck solid and the nut rounded.

Ordered spares from David Silver, but they are out of valves til end of July.

Any other places to get new valves (anywhere except Honda!)

Ta much

Simon

BarryH · Post by **BarryH** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:08 am

You could try Fowlers of Bristol. I've had a few bits off of them at reasonable costs. They tend to hold most things in stock. The only thing they tripped up on was a speedo cable for my scoot which took 4 weeks from italy.......was only 9 quid tho. sh1t!.....just admitted I ride a scooter as well.........

storminateacup · Post by **storminateacup** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:33 am

RedStormV wrote:Hi Storminateacup,

Try reading through this thread in the workshop section

CCT Problem Solved (100% guaranteed)

HTH

Graeme

Cheers Graeme I am totally confused now. Think I'll go with if it aint broke etc etc

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:04 pm

Try Lings

Popell · Post by **Popell** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:52 pm

Simonhep wrote:Latest update

Ordered spares from David Silver, but they are out of valves til end of July.

Any other places to get new valves (anywhere except Honda!)

Simon

I bought some from a website in USA, had them shipped to New York where I was going the following week
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com was the place, didn't ask if they would send to the UK though.
Thids is what I bought and prices
1 of 90035-MZ1-000 - BOLT, STUD (8X24) @ $3.17ea.

1 of 12251-MBB-003 - GASKET, CYL HD @ $25.85ea.

2 of 14721-MBB-000 - VALVE, EX. @ $38.24ea.

2 of 12208-MBB-003 - SEAL, EX. VALVE STEM @ $6.27ea.

2 of 17254-MBB-000 - FILTER, SUB A/CLNR @ $1.33ea.

2 of 12209-MBB-003 - SEAL, VALVE STEM @ $6.27ea.

Subtotal: $133.24
Shipping: $29.64 via UPS 2nd Day Air
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total Amt: $162.88

Mind you I still have a bike that will not pull past 6k cleanly since the rebuild, probably an opportunity for a new thread but any suggestions welcomed.
Regards

Post by **sirch345** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:13 pm

Popell wrote:
Mind you I still have a bike that will not pull past 6k cleanly since the rebuild, probably an opportunity for a new thread but any suggestions welcomed.
Regards

Paul,
Below is a reply I posted to CountryBoy who had a similar problem to you

You can read the whole post from the link at the bottom

Did you set the valve timing up as I have suggested below

sirch345 wrote:
CountryBoy wrote:Sirch345 - Sorry but i don't understand your first question, i set the timing as i described before, not sure what your asking?
OK I'll try to put it another way, but I don't really think this will be your problem but I thought worth a mention

If you align the relevant marks for the rear cylinder as you do for removing the CCT (RI and RE marks on the cam sprockets and the RT - mark) then turn the engine over using a socket on the nut on the end of the crankshaft (through the alternator casing) turning it ANTI-CLOCKWISE one and a quarter turns (450 degrees ) until the FT - mark is now aligned, at this point the front FI and FE marks on the cam sprockets should be aligned with the top of the cylinder-head, just as you would for removing the front CCT

Don't forget on the rear cylinder the RI and RE marks will be facing away from each other (cam lobes facing to-wards each other)

The front cylinder the FI and FE marks will be facing away from each other (the cam lobes will be facing away from each other)

Note
When carrying out any work to the valve timing (including CCT replacement) always turn the engine over a few times ANTI-CLOCKWISE by hand before pressing the starter button, just to make sure all the valves are clear of the pistons first

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB2/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

HTH.

Chris.

Simon,
I can't suggest anyone else other than those already mentioned for valves

Chris.

cupasoop · Post by **cupasoop** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:21 pm

Popell wrote:Mind you I still have a bike that will not pull past 6k cleanly since the rebuild, probably an opportunity for a new thread but any suggestions welcomed.
Regards

Did you put the vacum hose back on the right bit on the fuel tap?