Oberon Clutch Slave Leaking

[Harveyz]

Hi folks - wondered if anyone else has this issue - oberon clutch slave was fitting by previous owner - I get a drip of hydraulic fluid on the side stand pivot - weirdly of all places - triple checked it's not chain lube and my master cylinder level has dropped slightly . Took it apart and no obvious leaks - however my bike does crunch into first and second - on my abba stand when back wheel of the ground it rotates with the clutch in - leading me to suspect the clutch is not engaging properly - I have flushed and changed the clutch fluid and there is 100% no air in the systems - all I can think is that I have a faulty slave cylinder which is losing pressure - before I plunge into spending £90+ on a new one (you can't buy refurb kits ) anyone else had issue with them - not sure if returning to stock is the best option if I'm spending money - Cheers

[sirch345]

Are you sure fluid is not seeping out at the banjo bolt getting past the sealing washers there

I know you say you're 100% sure all the air is out, however the clutch on these bikes can sometimes be a right pita to bleed and could cause the clutch not to disengage fully (hence the crunching into 1st and 2nd gear you're experiencing) if there is still some air trapped in the system. I find back bleeding at the bleed nipple with a big syringe works best, with some PTFE tape on the bleed nipple threads,

Chris.

[Harveyz]

Thanks Chris - I’ll give a try back bleeding - I had to do it with my z1000 years ago

[freeridenick]

When you're turning the wheel on the paddock stand is that with the bike in gear? I think that would turn the engine over in 1st or 2nd. It wouldn't necessarily mean the clutch isn't engaged but it'd be with some resistance.

Check behind the sprocket cover too. If the clutch pushrod seal or gearbox seal has gone then engine oil will leak onto the side stand.

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[Harveyz]

Hi. tried a back to back comparison with my SV650 - both had similar resistance to manually turning the rear wheel with no engine on - with both I could find a defined bitting point for the clutch - that I hope proves the VTR clutch is working correctly - still can't get over the big clunk as it goes into 1st when engine running. Back to the leak - checked the engine output shaft seal no apparent leak - fluid is defo hydraulic - it could be coming from the clutch push rod - dripping down into the casing and running down - looks like a new oberon slave cylinder is only cure

[freeridenick]

Shame they're not serviceable. I have to say I'm surprised. For the sake of an hour or two and a few pence it might be worth pulling it apart and cleaning out the seal grooves. Use new copper washers and maybe you'll fix the leak.

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[sirch345]

Hi. tried a back to back comparison with my SV650 - both had similar resistance to manually turning the rear wheel with no engine on - with both I could find a defined bitting point for the clutch - that I hope proves the VTR clutch is working correctly - still can't get over the big clunk as it goes into 1st when engine running. Back to the leak - checked the engine output shaft seal no apparent leak - fluid is defo hydraulic - it could be coming from the clutch push rod - dripping down into the casing and running down - looks like a new oberon slave cylinder is only cure

I'm with Nick on the being surprised bit of the Oberon unit being faulty

I had a read on Google about your issue, the only thing I could find which may, or may not be relevant is that there was some mention for Ducati Oberon Slave cylinder(s) some years ago now about a ball bearing that sits between the pushrod and the operating point in the Slave cylinder. Probably a slim chance on yours missing a ball bearing, or if there is meant to be one there even, however if there was supposed to be one there and it was missing that would change the whole operation of where the piston would sit in the Slave when pulling the clutch lever in.

If back bleeding didn't make any difference it might be a good idea to give Oberon a phone call, after all they are in the UK

Head Office
11 Havant Business Centre
Harts Farm Way
Havant
Hampshire
PO9 1HU
UK


Tel: 02392 481188

Their Website here: https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/cl ... -cylinders

Chris.

PS. Regarding the clunk into 1st gear, that is unfortunately normal. Changing up into 2nd gear is best done without accelerating anymore than necessary in 1st gear making full use of the torque.

[freeridenick]

Short-shifting 1st to 2nd is definitely the best thing with a 'Storm gearbox. 1st is very low; just use it to get rolling.

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