Do I need to worry?

Hanuman · Post by **Hanuman** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 11:28 pm

Mileage - 8000 miles. 2000 FY model.

Bike has recently been serviced, like 40 miles ago - bike was running fine before hand.

Took it out for the first time this evening since the service a few weeks ago (i've had my back tattoo'd and was having some time out for it to heal) eased in the front brake.

noticed, as I pulled up at a T junction, a clattering coming from underneath somewhere. didnt seem to rise with revs - tho it was hard to tell.

then noticed a slight delay pulling hard in 3rd - like the chain wasnt biting.

Got home - the bike stunk of buring, almost plastic smell, as i put it in the garage.

clutch area seemed to smell too.

sat the bike up and did the contortionist act as is necessary to check the oil without a paddock stand - oil is about 2-3mm above fill level.

locked up the garage and let it go... til now.

now i'm worried.

any suggestions?

Hanuman · Post by **Hanuman** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 6:31 pm

forget about the oil.... its obviously gonna be above the fill level when it's just been switched off

any ideas?

Squiffythewombat · Post by **Squiffythewombat** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 8:45 pm

from my limited knowledge the oil check is ment to be done a few mins after the engine has stopped so maybe there is way too much oil in there?

Im sure ben or someone will be able to help with a useful reply!

Hanuman · Post by **Hanuman** » Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:51 pm

had a 60 mile ride out tonight, just taking it easy - noise wasnt apparent when i started her up.

I thought that perhaps as I havent been on the bike for a few weeks that maybe it was just a noise that had always been there.

anyways - got to my turn around point, to take a peek in estate agent windows, and found when switching off that the clatter was rather noticeable over the high pithced whirring noise the twin makes. it got louder and faster with the RPM.

having mares that its the cam chain tensioner but wouldnt know my butt from my elbow about detecting such things.

stuck my head right down and it appears to be coming from the cylinder heads - but then again its hard to tell where such a noise is coming from.

sounds a bit like worn valve seats on a high revving 16v car lump. how many valves does the storm have? just 4?

do you think i should take it to the independant who did the servicing and ask him to investigate? I really havent the inclination to get my tools out on it at the moment - even though i'm a trained aircraft mech... then again perhaps it would be good to get into something techy... i dunno.

cheers

Post by **sirch345** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:07 am

When you say above the fill level you do mean between the two marks and not above the top one I presume

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:38 am

Forget the oil thing - if it didn't have enough it would have seized and if it had way too much would have blown out the excess or taken out piston rings with the excess pressure. The oil level won't occasion a mechanical rattle.

Does the noise disappear/alter when you pull the clutch lever in?

If its a clack clack clack sound then it could well be the CCT backed out causing the canchain to hit the casing. A relatively simple way to check is to remove the top bolt from the CCT (pain to get to for the front as you will have to remove airbox etc, then, with a thin screwdriver GENTLY turn the CCT a very little bit. When you release the pressure you should feel the CCT spring moving the tensioner back. If it doesn't, the spring is broken. Take the opportunity, if it isn't broken, to put a few drops of oil down there.

However, a smell of burning plastic doesn't sound like a symptom. If it has just been serviced, coincidence tells me that this is caused by soemthing done at the service so they are respoensible. Get it back to them as soon as you can or better still ask them to collect it!

delmeekc · Post by **delmeekc** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 1:25 pm

Stratman, don't do the insert the screw driver in and back it off abit. That will only work properly at TDC on the compression stroke, anywhere else and as you back it off the pressure of the valves (inlet or exhaust - which ever is open) will cause the cct to not spring back to it's orignal position and if you do too many turns then one of the cam sprockets may skip a tooth on the chain.

If you try it with a cam cover off you will see what I mean as the chain will start to ride off of the cam sprocket as you back it off.

A good static test to see if the cct is on it's way out is to crank the engine by hand (on the crank nut - normal rotation - anti clockwise - never crank it clockwise) very slowly and you will see the chain try and ride off the sprockets under load when opening and closing valves - change cct if this happens. Remove plugs first.

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 3:15 pm

Hi del, I have already done this no prob - I fully understand what you say and I only turned sufficient to see if there was resistance - not even a 1/4 turn.

I'm going to get the APE manual ones soon anyway - I have the old engine sitting in the garage so I can perfect my technique on that!

delmeekc · Post by **delmeekc** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 4:08 pm

No probs, was cubicicicicubicinio I was really trying to tell.