Where possible try doing this without a full tank of fule...Makes it a tad easier to lift...
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Removal of tank.
Take the seat off.
Look for the black wire coming from under the tank, the fule sender,that goes to the bundle of conections just rear of tank, locate the block conector & disconect.
At front of tank 2x bolts...As std these are a 6x28mm but may have been replaced by allen head SS or Ti. Remove the bolts & then lift slightly & remove the 2x top hats if they are there...
Some may have a different way of doing this from this point on but this is how I go about it...
At rear of tank take of the nut on the tank pivot bolt but leave the bolt in place for now.
Lift the front of the tank & either use a tank prop or a bungge to joist...I use a peice of timber as a prop.
Now lets get to removal of pipes...If its your first time take a pic & even use some masking tape to lable the pipes. Once you have done it a few times hopefully you wont need to do this.
Now on the F version the tap will not flow unless a vacume is being pulled so the fule WILL NOT leak out of the petcock when you remove the pipes...However fule still in the pipes may well spill out but its only a pipe full...But some will say turn the tap off...So an 8mm spanner & turn the petcock valve the opposit way to what its sitting at...180* but you must remember to turn it back on to save embarrassing non starting issues...esp when infront of a load of Stormer's at a workshopday...Ahem...XXXX (name witheld... For now.)
Now in the first pic below there is a connector missing of the pipe A the tank vent...It should have a small length of pipe off the stub & a white plastic conector on the main pipe, other than that lets get pipe pulling...
Remove A & B from the tank spigots.
Remove the wire clips from the fule pipes, a simple squeez & pull back, pull fule pipe off spigot on petcock...You will probably get a pipes worth of fule come out now but dont panic thats all you'll get as its just what in the pipe not coming from the petcock. Either have a rag in place or just let it fall out...Just dont be smerkin a tab whilst doing it...
One side will be a lot easier to get off than the other due to space limitations, you may find it easier to do from one side of the bike to the other.
Last pipe to remove is the vac line...please make a mental note of which spigot your taking it from or again take a pic first. Reconecting this wrong will mean the bike wont start...see second pic VLFURP... Vac Line Fek Up Reminder Pic...
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Now lower the tank back down, remove the tank pivot bolt, note how the black plastic flap fits over the tank mount plate, pick up tank...At this point you'll find out if all pipes & wires have been disconected properly...any resistance & put it back down & check...esp the sender wire !
Pipe conections under tank F only.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/UcfAy6Q.jpg)
VLFURP...Vac Line Fek Up Reminder Pic...
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/wvhGDzf.jpg)
If you have a t-peice in the vac line the the free end is for conection to either carb sync (block after use.) or maybe there was/is a scottoiler.
To do the carb sync there should be a take off fitted to the front cylinder as well. This is located on the right hand side of the front cylinder below the carb intake. If it has a tube on it thats your carb sync tube. If there is no tube or take off fitted it will have a allen head bolt in the hole.
Take off as fitted to front cylinder...
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/sRkqpTD.jpg)
The vac tube for the petcock is on the L/H side of the rear cylinder, again just below the carb intake. There should be a take off point there as std unlike the front...
As said the first two pics are not actually my bike but stock photos from somewhere or other but I added the notes...I'll look into doing some new pics & adding them in editing the post as ness in the future...sometime...maybe...
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I'm off to suck some eggs & do a write up on that as well...
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